long list of questions

Bihari, James · Jun 13, 2006

<table dir="ltr">
A few weeks ago I got my engine back from the engine guy and have had the car out in the water a few times. It’s a lot of fun but I have a few questions: It's a long list but I'll gladly accept answers to any
of thequestionsanyone might choose to answer.

(My car is a 1964, so I guess it’s an earlier style.) Jim Bihari (bihari.1@osu.edu, toll free 866-487-7211)
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I’m going to email this to Gordon’s as well as the yahoo list in case anyone has any suggestions.
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1. The engine guy took all my tags off of all the wires. There is a blue wire with a female spade connector on the same group as the two (brown and large black) that go to the generator, and that blue wire is just laying there not connected to anything. Everything seems to work. Can someone look at the generator in their car and trace the wires back until you see a third blue wire that branches off and tell me where that wire is supposed to go?
<o

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>
2. Rear marine light pole connection. We have power to the socket to the marine light pole fits into and the marine light itself works, but the light doesn’t work when put into place, so there must be some problem with the way the pole fits into the socket. We once found two tiny curved brass pieces on the floor and I wonder if they somehow fit into the socket or are we missing pieces for the bottom of the pole? At the bottom of the pole, there is a pointed connection at the end and then there is a second connection imbedded in the black plastic but there is no way it will touch the ground connection of the holder. What is missing from what piece?
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3. Carburetor. The rebuilt carburetor we bought has been trouble since we got it. I’ve now used the car for about 7 days and 300 miles (one long trip in October) and gasoline always leaks out when you shut it off and it often backfires. Also, it’s almost impossible to start with a few minutes of being shut off because the carburetor is flooded with gasoline. This makes filling up at a gas station embarrassing because it won’t start after you fill it. (It’s not vapor lock—I put in an electric fuel pump but don’t use it because there’s too much gasoline in the carburetor.) The engine guy said that the needle valves are not shutting off and this is why it leaks gasoline and floods. I heard others say that some gasoline leakage is common, but can you guys start your cars after they’ve been shut off for only several minutes? Does Gordon’s have new carburetors yet? I’d like a get a good one or have this one rebuilt properly.
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>
4. Source of water leaks. It sure seems like this car takes on my water than it should. We had EVERYTHING off of this car body and had it up on a rotisserie where they welded shut one hole in the rocker panel and filled some pinholes under the battery tray with fiberglass. The (new) boots (steering, axle, emergency brake) seem good. I know it leaks a tiny bit around the doors and front hood seals even though those are all new. I’d say we use the bilge pump for 15-20 seconds every five minutes in the water. I tested my two bilge pumps—one fills a 4-gallon bucket in 30 seconds, the other pump (which I don’t use much) fills it in 60 seconds. So I’d say, it must be taking on about 3 gallons of water or so every 5 minutes and I cannot figure out where. I had the rear seat out and was trying to see if it was coming in around the axel boots but they looked fine. What is typical for water leakage and where can that much water leak in?
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5. The three bolts that hold the exhaust pipe on the manifold keep coming loose and no one seems to have that triangular gasket (Gordon’s and NAPA didn’t have it, so we made a temporary one out of asbestos). The loose exhaust allows the tail pipe to drop and you would think this could allow some leaking into the rear hole of the body where the exhaust comes out, but usually the exhaust outlet is above water, isn’t it? Anyone find gaskets anywhere or have opinions about how to keep those bolts tight or know if much water would leak in there? Thoughts about welding the exhaust pipe to the manifold to keep it in place?
<o

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>
6. We had a new top from Gordon’s put on by a professional top installer. The first time we tried to put the top down, I forgot to unzip the side zippers. We did not force it at all, but we really gentle and noticed it wasn’t folding up, so we opened it up and unzipped the zippers. The zipper pull on my friend’s side completely came off the end of the zipper track when she tried to unzip it. I got it back on, but now I need some kind of staple to put across the zipper track to keep it from coming off all the time. Also the bottom of each zipper track is starting to tear the top fabric. Even before this happened, the top installer guy pointed out that the zippers on the new top do not go all the way down into the double thickness fabric like the original top so they are more likely tear away. This was the more expensive top, and considering the cost of professional installation, I’d like to find a way to repair the torn area around the bottom end of the zipper. Any suggestions for repairing a small tear in a brand new white top? I was thinking of adding 1 or 2 snaps along the side at the back of the frame so that I could avoid zipping the zippers all the way shut and avoid stress on the torn area. Any reason that it would be bad to add snaps (like the three snaps that are already on each side, only farther back near the zipper area)? The bolt holding the base of the snaps to the metal frame would have to go through the top fabric about an inch from where the zipper is—any thoughts that that might make it tear a different place?
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>
7. What does Double Clutch mean? I find that shifting into 1st, 2nd or Reverse, even when I have the car completely at rest seems to result in the gears grinding. Maybe I need to adjust the clutch to be more disengaged when I think the pedal is to the floor? What gears are supposed to be synchronous? Shouldn’t I be able to shift into all gears when stopped without hearing a grinding noise sometimes?
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8. Last year I bought two of the chrome headlight rings (part 10-32-05) “Chrome replacement to the original rim. “This is not 100% original, but fastens exactly as the original.” I’ve had 4 or 5 people look at them and try to figure out how they fit, then scratch their heads and shrug their shoulders. That spring clip pops right out and even if you solder it in place, there doesn’t seem to be any appropriate tab for it to clip behind. Are the chrome rings Gordon’s are now promoting like the originals or the same as the ones sold last year and if so how do they fit?
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>
9. How does your Amphicar handle going around gentle turns at high speeds (over 45—like gentle curves on freeways etc.) I find that it seems like I end up making more of a polygon path than a circular path (turn the wheel a tiny bit, then straight, turn the wheel a tiny bit, then straight, turn the wheel a tiny bit etc.) due to the way the steering wheel seems to stick in place. Is that normal for an Amphi? Also, since the guys had the front wheels off the body to put it on the rotisserie, the steering wheel does not line up to properly show straight ahead. That steering wheel doesn’t have a spline on it does it—isn’t it just a shear pin that fits in one location, so I’d need to adjust all the nuts on the steering linkage to get the steering wheel to indicate straight ahead?
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></o

>
10. Anyone want to make an offer on a set of 1147 .040 over pistons I bought on ebay for $50 (two identical, then 2 others each different) or a complete set of .040 over rings I bought from Advanced Performance Technology in CA for $66? We ended up installing the set of .020 pistons we got from Gordon’s.
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Thanks in advance to any answers to these questions.

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">Jim

David Chapman · Jun 13, 2006

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James, 

Quick answers to important stuff. 

Carb, float chamber needle isn't sealing properly, just take apart and clean - shouldn't need new.

A "repair" with glassfibre paste isn'ta repair - do it properly !

Put masking tape over the 3 holes in the door rocker, then any leaks from door will come into car and can be seen.

A sorted Amphicar will leak no more than a cup of water an hour. 

Gasket should be available but it is early Triumph so may be difficult but can be made. Pipe will come loose if you use steel nuts, they should be brass, again common to 1962 Triumph. Don't try and weld it ! It will wreck the parts and not fix the problem anyway as manifold is cast.

Best solution for the top is to use Velcro or extra studs on the vertical part - the zippers are a waste of time. 

Double de-clutching - done properly you don't need to use the clutch at all, it is about syncronising gearbox internals to engine speed, but takes practice (not in Amphi) look it up in Google or Wikipedia. 

Amphi is sensitive to badly adjusted suspension, play in steering joints, bad tyres etc - you need to drive a good one to understand, I think the best in the US is John Friese. 70mph+ is no problemand should be relaxing (except for engine noise). Amphi brakes are not as sharp as a modern cars and the wipers never work well but at normal freeway speeds it should feel at least as good as most others cars of the 1960s. 

Hope that helps, 

David C

a_colo_native · Jun 13, 2006

> 1. The engine guy took all my tags off of all the wires. There is
a blue
> wire with a female spade connector .....

Oil pressure sending unit located just below the distributer.

> 2. Rear marine light pole connection.

You will need to replace the female socket. Those pieces are from
the center pin contacts. Hugh sell a nice aluminum replacement.

> 3. Carburetor.

Do you have the thick (about 1/4") phenolic spacer between the
manifold and the carb? This insulates the carb somewhat to keep the
heat from the manifold from boiling the gas. This is a common
problem related to design and not carb failure.

> 4. Source of water leaks.

A common source is the 30 or so screws that hold the 2 rear
horizontal bumper halves on. Check the seal around the tow hook and
the dubo nuts on the front and rear bumper bolts. Tape over the 3
holes in the door sils before going out. This will redirect thewater
coming in over the lip so you can gage the amount.

Remove the rear seat and have the top down, engine cover up. Get a
BRIGHT flashlight and look closely around the engine compartment.

> 5. The three bolts that hold the exhaust pipe on the manifold keep
coming

Your gasket will work fine. You can use nuts and bolts with lock
washers. Do you have lock washers on there now? DO NOT WELD IT! I
you need in there again, it will be a pain to grind them off.

> 6. We had a new top from Gordon’s put on by a professional top
installer.

Tommy in Tampa has the zippers replaced with Velcro, no more torn
tops. I rarely zip my zippers. Even on road trips, I snap the snaps
and that works well. No need to add more unless you want to.

> 7. What does Double Clutch mean?

Double clutching is when you depress the momentarilly clutch an
extra time between shifts to line up the gears. It goes like;
depress clutch, move to neutral, depress clutch and release, depress
clutch to move into gear.

> 8. Last year I bought two of the chrome headlight rings (part 10-
32-05)
> “Chrome replacement to the original rim.

I have not used Gordons rings.

> 9. How does your Amphicar handle going around gentle turns at high
speeds.... linkage to get the steering
> wheel to indicate straight ahead?

Pull the column clamp below the dash, then loosen one of the clamps
that are in the u-joint at the base of the column. Pull the column
out and There you can rotate the wheel to be straight.

Sounds like there is something not assembled correctly in the front
end. It should turn smoothly and no sticking ever.

John Bevins

Fran · Jun 13, 2006

Re: Re: long list of questions

Going back to question #9, I seem to have the same problem he does, How do
you go about finding what the problem is/ Could it be a tire pressure or
shock problem? What about instalkling a brace on the steering shaft where it
goes thru the hull, will that help at all?

----- Original Message -----
From: "a_colo_native" <rma@amphicar.com>
To: <amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 7:39 PM
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: long list of questions

> 1. The engine guy took all my tags off of all the wires. There is
a blue
> wire with a female spade connector .....

Oil pressure sending unit located just below the distributer.

> 2. Rear marine light pole connection.

You will need to replace the female socket. Those pieces are from
the center pin contacts. Hugh sell a nice aluminum replacement.

> 3. Carburetor.

Do you have the thick (about 1/4") phenolic spacer between the
manifold and the carb? This insulates the carb somewhat to keep the
heat from the manifold from boiling the gas. This is a common
problem related to design and not carb failure.

> 4. Source of water leaks.

A common source is the 30 or so screws that hold the 2 rear
horizontal bumper halves on. Check the seal around the tow hook and
the dubo nuts on the front and rear bumper bolts. Tape over the 3
holes in the door sils before going out. This will redirect thewater
coming in over the lip so you can gage the amount.

Remove the rear seat and have the top down, engine cover up. Get a
BRIGHT flashlight and look closely around the engine compartment.

> 5. The three bolts that hold the exhaust pipe on the manifold keep
coming

Your gasket will work fine. You can use nuts and bolts with lock
washers. Do you have lock washers on there now? DO NOT WELD IT! I
you need in there again, it will be a pain to grind them off.

> 6. We had a new top from Gordon??Ts put on by a professional top
installer.

Tommy in Tampa has the zippers replaced with Velcro, no more torn
tops. I rarely zip my zippers. Even on road trips, I snap the snaps
and that works well. No need to add more unless you want to.

> 7. What does Double Clutch mean?

Double clutching is when you depress the momentarilly clutch an
extra time between shifts to line up the gears. It goes like;
depress clutch, move to neutral, depress clutch and release, depress
clutch to move into gear.

> 8. Last year I bought two of the chrome headlight rings (part 10-
32-05)
> ??oChrome replacement to the original rim.

I have not used Gordons rings.

> 9. How does your Amphicar handle going around gentle turns at high
speeds.... linkage to get the steering
> wheel to indicate straight ahead?

Pull the column clamp below the dash, then loosen one of the clamps
that are in the u-joint at the base of the column. Pull the column
out and There you can rotate the wheel to be straight.

Sounds like there is something not assembled correctly in the front
end. It should turn smoothly and no sticking ever.

John Bevins

THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
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John Friese · Jun 13, 2006

Assuming your front shocks are reasonably good and your front end
alignment is good, the main thing that causes Amphicars to be unstable
at high speed is the front tire pressure. With bias ply tires inflate
the fronts to 14 lbs. and the rears to 30. With radials run the
fronts at no more than 18lbs and the rears at 30.

My two Amphicars both have larger 1296 engines and both of them track
just fine at 80+ MPH. If the front tire pressure is too high the cars
tend to wander at highway speeds but they behave just fine when
properly adjusted. Just keep in mind that the wheelbase is rather
narrow and the center of gravity rather high. I drive my cars
accordingly and don't try laying them into turns too fast. Pretend
you're driving a fast Jeep CJ.

John Friese
67 White
67 Red

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, " Fran" <yhprum.fa@...> wrote:
>
> Going back to question #9, I seem to have the same problem he does,
How do
> you go about finding what the problem is/ Could it be a tire
pressure or
> shock problem? What about instalkling a brace on the steering shaft
where it
> goes thru the hull, will that help at all?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "a_colo_native" <rma@...>
> To: <amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 7:39 PM
> Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: long list of questions
>
>
> > 1. The engine guy took all my tags off of all the wires. There is
> a blue
> > wire with a female spade connector .....
>
> Oil pressure sending unit located just below the distributer.
>
> > 2. Rear marine light pole connection.
>
> You will need to replace the female socket. Those pieces are from
> the center pin contacts. Hugh sell a nice aluminum replacement.
>
>
> > 3. Carburetor.
>
> Do you have the thick (about 1/4") phenolic spacer between the
> manifold and the carb? This insulates the carb somewhat to keep the
> heat from the manifold from boiling the gas. This is a common
> problem related to design and not carb failure.
>
>
> > 4. Source of water leaks.
>
> A common source is the 30 or so screws that hold the 2 rear
> horizontal bumper halves on. Check the seal around the tow hook and
> the dubo nuts on the front and rear bumper bolts. Tape over the 3
> holes in the door sils before going out. This will redirect thewater
> coming in over the lip so you can gage the amount.
>
> Remove the rear seat and have the top down, engine cover up. Get a
> BRIGHT flashlight and look closely around the engine compartment.
>
> > 5. The three bolts that hold the exhaust pipe on the manifold keep
> coming
>
> Your gasket will work fine. You can use nuts and bolts with lock
> washers. Do you have lock washers on there now? DO NOT WELD IT! I
> you need in there again, it will be a pain to grind them off.
>
> > 6. We had a new top from Gordon??Ts put on by a professional top
> installer.
>
> Tommy in Tampa has the zippers replaced with Velcro, no more torn
> tops. I rarely zip my zippers. Even on road trips, I snap the snaps
> and that works well. No need to add more unless you want to.
>
> > 7. What does Double Clutch mean?
>
> Double clutching is when you depress the momentarilly clutch an
> extra time between shifts to line up the gears. It goes like;
> depress clutch, move to neutral, depress clutch and release, depress
> clutch to move into gear.
>
> > 8. Last year I bought two of the chrome headlight rings (part 10-
> 32-05)
> > ??oChrome replacement to the original rim.
>
> I have not used Gordons rings.
>
> > 9. How does your Amphicar handle going around gentle turns at high
> speeds.... linkage to get the steering
> > wheel to indicate straight ahead?
>
> Pull the column clamp below the dash, then loosen one of the clamps
> that are in the u-joint at the base of the column. Pull the column
> out and There you can rotate the wheel to be straight.
>
> Sounds like there is something not assembled correctly in the front
> end. It should turn smoothly and no sticking ever.
>
> John Bevins
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Please support our sponsors while ensuring the very best restoration
> services for your Amphicar. Please pay a visit to:
> http://www.midwestamphicar.com
>
> The amphicar list is a seperate service from the International Amphicar
> Owners Club. Do join the club today at http://www.amphicar.com
>
> To Unsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> Archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> For more information about this List and other available services
> visit:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> amphicar770@...
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

a_colo_native · Jun 14, 2006

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, " Fran" <yhprum.fa@...> wrote:
>
> Going back to question #9, I seem to have the same problem he does, How do
> you go about finding what the problem is/ Could it be a tire pressure or
> shock problem? What about instalkling a brace on the steering shaft where it
> goes thru the hull, will that help at all?

There are many versions of such a brace in use. Mine is hereand a search of the archievs for "steering brace" should yieldat least 2 or 3other ideas too. Shocks could contribute to it's drive-ability as well. Try John Friese's suggestions and see how it helps.

John Bevins

F M · Jun 14, 2006

Re: Re: long list of questions

Concerning theshocks, has anyone found a replacement shock that works without major modifications?

John Friese <jfriese@mindspring.com> wrote: <blockquote class="replbq" style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"> <div id="ygrp-text"> Assuming your front shocks are reasonably good and your front end
alignment is good, the main thing that causes Amphicars to be unstable
at high speed is the front tire pressure. With bias ply tires inflate
the fronts to 14 lbs. and the rears to 30. With radials run the
fronts at no more than 18lbs and the rears at 30.

My two Amphicars both have larger 1296 engines and both of them track
just fine at 80+
MPH. If the front tire pressure is too high the cars
tend to wander at highway speeds but they behave just fine when
properly adjusted. Just keep in mind that the wheelbase is rather
narrow and the center of gravity rather high. I drive my cars
accordingly and don't try laying them into turns too fast. Pretend
you're driving a fast Jeep CJ.

John Friese
67 White
67 Red

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, " Fran" <yhprum.fa@...> wrote:
>
> Going back to question #9, I seem to have the same problem he does,
How do
> you go about finding what the problem is/ Could it be a tire
pressure or
> shock problem? What about instalkling a brace on the steering shaft
where it
> goes thru the hull, will that help at all?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "a_colo_native" <rma@...>
> To:
<amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 7:39 PM
> Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: long list of questions
>
>
> > 1. The engine guy took all my tags off of all the wires. There is
> a blue
> > wire with a female spade connector .....
>
> Oil pressure sending unit located just below the distributer.
>
> > 2. Rear marine light pole connection.
>
> You will need to replace the female socket. Those pieces are from
> the center pin contacts. Hugh sell a nice aluminum replacement.
>
>
> > 3. Carburetor.
>
> Do you have the thick (about 1/4") phenolic spacer between the
> manifold and the carb? This insulates the carb somewhat to keep the
> heat from the manifold from boiling the gas. This is a common
> problem related to design and not
carb failure.
>
>
> > 4. Source of water leaks.
>
> A common source is the 30 or so screws that hold the 2 rear
> horizontal bumper halves on. Check the seal around the tow hook and
> the dubo nuts on the front and rear bumper bolts. Tape over the 3
> holes in the door sils before going out. This will redirect thewater
> coming in over the lip so you can gage the amount.
>
> Remove the rear seat and have the top down, engine cover up. Get a
> BRIGHT flashlight and look closely around the engine compartment.
>
> > 5. The three bolts that hold the exhaust pipe on the manifold keep
> coming
>
> Your gasket will work fine. You can use nuts and bolts with lock
> washers. Do you have lock washers on there now? DO NOT WELD IT! I
> you need in there again, it will be a pain to grind them off.
>
> > 6. We had a new top from Gordon??Ts put on
by a professional top
> installer.
>
> Tommy in Tampa has the zippers replaced with Velcro, no more torn
> tops. I rarely zip my zippers. Even on road trips, I snap the snaps
> and that works well. No need to add more unless you want to.
>
> > 7. What does Double Clutch mean?
>
> Double clutching is when you depress the momentarilly clutch an
> extra time between shifts to line up the gears. It goes like;
> depress clutch, move to neutral, depress clutch and release, depress
> clutch to move into gear.
>
> > 8. Last year I bought two of the chrome headlight rings (part 10-
> 32-05)
> > ??oChrome replacement to the original rim.
>
> I have not used Gordons rings.
>
> > 9. How does your Amphicar handle going around gentle turns at high
> speeds.... linkage to get the steering
> > wheel to indicate straight ahead?
>

> Pull the column clamp below the dash, then loosen one of the clamps
> that are in the u-joint at the base of the column. Pull the column
> out and There you can rotate the wheel to be straight.
>
> Sounds like there is something not assembled correctly in the front
> end. It should turn smoothly and no sticking ever.
>
> John Bevins
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Please support our sponsors while ensuring the very best restoration
> services for your Amphicar. Please pay a visit to:
> http://www.midwestamphicar.com
>
> The amphicar list is a seperate service from the International Amphicar
> Owners Club. Do join the club today at http://www.amphicar.com
>
> To
Unsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> Archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> For more information about this List and other available services
> visit:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> amphicar770@...
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

</blockquote>

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Bihari, James · Jun 14, 2006

<table>Thank you to all for all of your good answers,

1. I guess my one top question was: has anyone had any luck with any kind of glue that would repair a couple of half inch tears in the new white vinyl top where the zipper fastens. The top installer guy thought that the new top would just continue to tear along the zipper (and it is a tear all the way through the new top--if I don't install some other kind of snaps to keep it from flapping in the wind I think it will tear more.)

2. I haven't yet put back on any of the aluminum trim over the fins, taillights, headlightsetc. etc. or any of the
side bumper aluminum. Wehaddrivenoff that fin trim with a wooden block tapped with a hammer. Except
for the left eyebrow it's pretty good shape, but a little wavy from the removal. How well will it straighten out
when it's put back on the fins etc.? Would it ruin the new paint if I had to remove it again to put on new trim? What do you think of the new stainless trim that I guess Allan Woodcock now sells (according to a
tip from Cigarman, thanks!) Does all of that trim just stay on due to a tight fit or is any kind of adhesive involved? I need to get Allan Woodcock's number I guess.

Thanks again!

Jim Bihari
bihari.1@osu.edu
toll free: 866-487-7211

John Friese · Jun 14, 2006

Jim,

You can have your original aluminum parts restored at a place in North
Hollywood, CA called Ano-Brite. Their web site is:

http://www.anobrite.com/home.html

They can straighten the old pieces, polish out minor nicks and
reanodize them with the original brite dip anodizing process. I had
mine done there a few years ago and was amazed at how good a job they
can do, even with bent up fin strips. They came back a perfect match
to some NOS strips that I had bought for another Amphi I was also
doing at the time.

The price varies with what needs to be done, and buying Allan's might
be cheaper, but it's an option you should know about.

John Friese
67 White
67 Red

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "Bihari, James" <jbihari@...>
wrote:
>
> Thank you to all for all of your good answers,
>
> 1. I guess my one top question was: has anyone had any luck with any
kind of
> glue that would repair a couple of half inch tears in the new white
vinyl top
> where the zipper fastens. The top installer guy thought that the
new top
> would just continue to tear along the zipper (and it is a tear all
the way
> through the new top--if I don't install some other kind of snaps to
keep it
> from flapping in the wind I think it will tear more.)
>
> 2. I haven't yet put back on any of the aluminum trim over the fins,
> taillights, headlights etc. etc. or any of the
> side bumper aluminum. We had driven off that fin trim with a wooden
block
> tapped with a hammer. Except
> for the left eyebrow it's pretty good shape, but a little wavy from the
> removal. How well will it straighten out
> when it's put back on the fins etc.? Would it ruin the new paint if
I had to
> remove it again to put on new trim? What do you think of the new
stainless
> trim that I guess Allan Woodcock now sells (according to a
> tip from Cigarman, thanks!) Does all of that trim just stay on due to a
> tight fit or is any kind of adhesive involved? I need to get Allan
> Woodcock's number I guess.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Jim Bihari
> bihari.1@...
> toll free: 866-487-7211
>

a_colo_native · Jun 14, 2006

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "Bihari, James"
<jbihari@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you to all for all of your good answers,
>
> 1. I guess my one top question was: has anyone had any luck with
any kind of
> glue that would repair a couple of half inch tears in the new
white vinyl top

Look in your area for vinyl repair or Call a local upholstery shop
for reccomendations for a repair guy. I have had several tops with
serious tears repaired with great results. I had 2 done last week
for $175 for both. Almost invisable and stronger than original. I
will send you some photos in a day or so.

> 2. I haven't yet put back on any of the aluminum trim over the
fins,<SNIP> I need to get Allan Woodcock's number I guess.

Look no further than Allan's! His trim is not stainless (Hugh does
the stainless), it's an exact reproduction of the correct original
extruded aluminum as from the factory. They are top shelf items at a
reasonable price. Finally a quality part at a super price! Call
Allan at 310-466-6288

John Bevins

Bihari, James · Jun 17, 2006

<table>Well I figured two things out: There were SUPPOSED to be two sets of snaps near the back of the
convertible top to keep the flapnear the zipper from flapping around. I was asking aboutwhat I
thought would be extra snaps there, but there are supposed to be some there in the first place.
I'll have to add those.

I got a marine light pole socket from Gordon's but apparently that was not the problem. There must be
some copper piece missing from around the bottom of thelight pole itself. Mine has that pointy prong contact on the bottom and then the other contact is a little 3/8 inch strip of copper inbedded in the black
plastic that will not make contact with the socket. There must have been some more substantial springy copper contact or something that was part of the the light pole base to allow it to make contact. I guess
I'll have to figure out what that was.

Jim Bihari

long list of questions

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