Rust proofing

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>In a message dated 10/16/2006 7:44:53 AM Central Daylight Time,
>ecrover@midcoast.com writes:
>
>>I'm 100% paranoid that something will happen to the body
>>
>>Don't blame you there, I had wanted to get my bush hog deck done by
>>a local plant that does oil field stuff, he said he could do it but
>>would not guarantee that it would not warp, and that thing is 1/8
>>to 1/4 inch thick. I never heard about the quenching part so maybe
>>that could be solved by air drying. Another thing the local fellow
>>told me was the process is priced by weight not size. Other
>>considerations would be runs and as Mike said excessive build up in
>>areas where it would not drain out.

The air dry is the key to not warping things. We do thin gauge body
panels often this way with no problems. If they quenced them though
they would be wrecked.

When we have loads done they just charge us the min (as our stuff
never gets to the weight needed) but still that is only about 300. so
in the scope of a vehicle restoration 300. is no biggie.
Small price I'll pay for doors that will never rust out (in my
lifetime anyway).

The body... still deciding if it is worth the risk. I want to run in
salt water periodically (don't freak out folks) and I'm not going to
if it is painted, but if it is galvanized I'd have no issue with it.

Thanks,
Mike Smith


ECR
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME 04864
ph: 207-594-8086 fax: 207-594-8120

http://www.eastcoastrover.com

ECR emails are for information exchange only, they are not quotes or
estimates. All work at ECR is done on a time and materials basis.
Install costs and overall project costs can not be given as used and
vintage vehicles vary greatly in condition.

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/FAQ.html

We suggest all 1993-1995 NAS Defender owners read this page:
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html

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>In a message dated 10/16/2006 7:44:53 AM Central Daylight Time,
>ecrover@midcoast.com writes:
>
>>I'm 100% paranoid that something will happen to the body
>>
>>Don't blame you there, I had wanted to get my bush hog deck done by
>>a local plant that does oil field stuff, he said he could do it but
>>would not guarantee that it would not warp, and that thing is 1/8
>>to 1/4 inch thick. I never heard about the quenching part so maybe
>>that could be solved by air drying. Another thing the local fellow
>>told me was the process is priced by weight not size. Other
>>considerations would be runs and as Mike said excessive build up in
>>areas where it would not drain out.

The air dry is the key to not warping things. We do thin gauge body
panels often this way with no problems. If they quenced them though
they would be wrecked.

When we have loads done they just charge us the min (as our stuff
never gets to the weight needed) but still that is only about 300. so
in the scope of a vehicle restoration 300. is no biggie.
Small price I'll pay for doors that will never rust out (in my
lifetime anyway).

The body... still deciding if it is worth the risk. I want to run in
salt water periodically (don't freak out folks) and I'm not going to
if it is painted, but if it is galvanized I'd have no issue with it.

Thanks,
Mike Smith


ECR
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME 04864
ph: 207-594-8086 fax: 207-594-8120

http://www.eastcoastrover.com

ECR emails are for information exchange only, they are not quotes or
estimates. All work at ECR is done on a time and materials basis.
Install costs and overall project costs can not be given as used and
vintage vehicles vary greatly in condition.

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/FAQ.html

We suggest all 1993-1995 NAS Defender owners read this page:
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html

</td></tr>
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Anyone ever heard of
Rustbusters.com ? They spray a galvanizing material on and it doesnt warp. there a re a list of vendors on their website. Maybe someone can check them out. Nobody close enough to me. Dennis

lah20car@aol.com wrote: <blockquote class="replbq" style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"> <div id="ygrp-text"> <font face="arial,helvetica"><font lang="0" face="Arial" size="2" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">In a message dated 10/16/2006 11:28:19 AM Central Daylight Time, ecrover@midcoast.<wbr>com writes:

<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid" TYPE="CITE">I want to run in salt water periodically (don't freak out folks)</blockquote>

Same here and I have done it in bays that are brackish but then went to fresh water, when I got home rinsed everything, inside and out with something called Salt Away from West Marine and haven't seen anything unusual but not something I would do regularly as its too much trouble and a major worry.
</font></font> </blockquote>
 
Anyone ever heard of
Rustbusters.com ? They spray a galvanizing material on and it doesnt warp. there a re a list of vendors on their website. Maybe someone can check them out. Nobody close enough to me. Dennis

lah20car@aol.com wrote: <blockquote class="replbq" style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"> <div id="ygrp-text"> <font face="arial,helvetica"><font lang="0" face="Arial" size="2" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">In a message dated 10/16/2006 11:28:19 AM Central Daylight Time, ecrover@midcoast.<wbr>com writes:

<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid" TYPE="CITE">I want to run in salt water periodically (don't freak out folks)</blockquote>

Same here and I have done it in bays that are brackish but then went to fresh water, when I got home rinsed everything, inside and out with something called Salt Away from West Marine and haven't seen anything unusual but not something I would do regularly as its too much trouble and a major worry.
</font></font> </blockquote>
 
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