Convertible Top Frame

[azpaul50]

I have my top frame off to repair a broken part and noticed that one side looked different than the other. From the "L" piece that attaches to the side swivel points on the car, the bottom arm of the "L" is a solid piece of metal stock. From that first weld point attaching the swivel arm to the rest of the "L", it is more like a channel piece of metal. Just above that first weld attaching these two pieces, the channel has blossomed outward as if heavily compressed from the top at some point in the past. It appears to only be on one side with the other side (now broken at this same point) but showing only mild bulging, if any at all. That bulging out isn't supposed to be there, right? If the answer is that it isn't, I'm afraid it will throw off reinstalling the frame after heating and hammering the bulge out. Signed - Arizona Alka-Seltzer Man!

 

[jfriese]

Hi Paul,

If I understand you correctly, the bends in that top rail are imperative to getting the front and second sections to snap to a straight position when the top is up. I'll include a couple of photos of a top frame that is correct. Many people weld a piece of steel rod across to brace this bend in this position since it can get bent if the top is forced when raising or lowering.

It is also common to see the front section of the top frame bent up by top shrinkage over the years. That bottom edge of the front frame rail should be parallel with the side rails. Photo enclosed.

John Friese
67 White
67 Red

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[azpaul50]

John - It had broken at the first joint (towards aft) of the pivot arm (of the convertible frame) that attaches the frame at the top's first swivel point. Anyway, we welded it to match the other side and put it back on the car and everything fit just fine but just a tad tighter which was really an small improvement. That corner of the frame was twisted when I got the car and just hanging by a metal strand. When it finally broke, nothing bad really happened except the rear right corner sunk down a little. I appears that fixing it tightened the corner top material a little (not bad using eyeball reconing) but not bad enough to not be able to close it and snap. So, at least one thing worked out on this continual battle and I'm still pumping more water out than is coming in. We're going out to our local lake in a few days for my (Colorado) granddaughter's first ride. I wanted the top up for shade as it will be 90+ degrees plus beginning this week, 100+ by late April. Thanks for your sound advice and help. ** AzPaul points to John** and yells, "Good guy!"



Azpaul50 of the Western Amphi Fleet



To: azpaul50@hotmail.com
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20330] Re: Convertible Top Frame
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 19:15:03 -0500
From:




Hi Paul,

If I understand you correctly, the bends in that top rail are imperative to getting the front and second sections to snap to a straight position when the top is up. I'll include a couple of photos of a top frame that is correct. Many people weld a piece of steel rod across to brace this bend in this position since it can get bent if the top is forced when raising or lowering.

It is also common to see the front section of the top frame bent by top shrinkage over the years. That bottom section of the front frame rail should be parallel with the side rails. Photo enclosed.

John Friese
67 White
67 Red






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[azpaul50]

John - I looked at the forum thread to see if my last post had posted. I now see that your original response (I viewed through my email) only had the last picture of the three you sent me. Anyway, those frame points in those pictures are further up and forward on the frame. It was the very first piece (arm) that bolts the entire frame to the car and where it connects to those pics you sent. Anyway, problem solved through constant and lavish California support! Regards to you and yours! - Paul