anyone have this rear hub tool?

[Jon March]

my hubs have noisy bearings, even tho they were just done with all new bearings and seals! One of then was done twice because of growling with new bearings after first install. Still not right - you can feel bumps and imperfections when you turn it (and you can really hear it holding your ear against the arm-end) There is either contamination in the bearings or they got damaged being installed.,...so, im gonna try this myself this time.

1) first, is it ok to use a "block of wood and a mallet" to drive the shaft-end out of the hub?

I know there is a c-clip holding the outer seal in, as well as washers/spacers that i need to "mind" how they go back in..

My goal is to clean the blue Amsoil grease out of the bearings (with carb cleaner?), then check them for issues and replace as needed

But i dont know anyone near me who has the recommended tool that Jeff Collins in Ontario made up to pull the tapered end fully into the hub. I asked Gordons, and they said they never use the tool, that the castle nut does a fine job pulling it in completely. But with John Bevins, Ron Green, Gord, Dave, etc all very adamant about the pulling - tool - Im lost as to what to do - conflicting info and this is the 3rd re-do on these things and i want them done right!#$ The first place that did them was 2 hours drive one way. thes should turn SMOOTH as velvet - and they both still have issues.

Do i take them to a machine shop for 50/hour?
Will they have the tool? - And Im unclear - whats so different about this tool that its better than a nice strong nut (maybe not a castle nut, but a hardened one - People seem to warn that the threads on the shaft will de-form if you use a nut to do the "pull", but doesnt this tool just use the same threads to pull the shaft thru till it seats?

http://www.midwestamphicar.com/images/axle8.JPG



jm

 

[mschlem]

I've just done this job.....
The shaft wasn't overly tight in the bearing ID's, so it drove out pretty easy with a block of wood and a mallet. Likewise, it went in through the new bearings nice. I used a block of wood on one side of the yoke and lightly tapped the shaft into place. No major beating was required going out or in....just nice solid tapping.
The bigger deal is getting the hub off BEFORE trying to drive the shaft out. I'm sure you've seen mention of this on Dave's web page since you had the image of the tool included in your post. He has some good info about this job. Hopefully your hub will come off since it has just been off recently. (I echo Dave's suggestion to get a box of disposable gloves!)

Seems like a good time to throw this one out there for someone......how tight should the castle nut be? As tight as possible? Is there a torque rating?

Marc.

 

[jfriese]

Hi Jon,

I second what Marc said and drove my shafts into the bearing by just tapping the yokes. No huge hanging required. Just check to be sure the shaft is all the way seated into the bearings. As he said, the real problem is getting the hubs off of the shafts. A very heavy duty puller is required and keep the castle nut threaded down to protect the end of the shaft from getting wrecked by the puller and sledge banging that is usually required to get the hubs off.

John Friese
67 White
67 Red

 

[Jon March]

yes - the hubs were removed long ago - the driver rear needed a puller.... the passenger one that had key-play in it came off by hand

 

[Jon March]

250 ft-lbs - see these comments from Larry & Gord:

https://amphicar770.com/threads/rear-axle-nut.12209/#post-27580

 

[Jon March]

So, getting the bearings out of the hub: just gently tap on one side, then the other till they eventually "work" out"?

And ive seen bearings put back IN the hubs with a shop-press, which i would think would cause less damage/impact to the bearings than the original method; a metal disc on a shaft that was hammered(however gently) into place