B
Bihari, James
Guest
<table>When I got home from Celina I opened the box of goodies I got from Hugh and found out that the
white convertible top I ordered was black! (I guess I should have opened the box there!) I'm sure I can exchange it for the correct color, but before I do, I thought I would get your opinions. I had a white
car that had a black top that needed replaced and a black convertible boot that is still okay.
I'm having the car painted red and I wanted to get a white top (and I figured that if I kept the black
boot, it wouldn't matter because no one would seat the top and the boot at the same time anyway.)
Do folks with white tops find that they are hard to keep clean?
Do folks with black tops find that they make the car way too hot?
Unrelated to this, recently I got some lights with stainless steel screws and a stainless steel accelerator cable.
Someone told me that stainless steel would not stick to a magnet, and that stainless steel should not be used
for applications where the bolt must be strong. I found that a refrigerator magnet will not stick to the stainless screw but will stick to the stainless cable as well as it sticks to a regular steel cable. A very strong
neodynium magnet will just barely stick to the stainless screw, but will stick easily to the regular steel cable and the stainless steel cable. Are there varying degrees of stainless steel where some have more iron in them
than other and some are stronger than others but some are more rust resistant?
Also, if I take the regular complete accelerator cable I got from Hugh and put in the stainless cable only I got from Rob, how do I attach the piece of forked metal that fit on the front to the stainless cable? Once I had
to put an end on a emergency brake cable for a 59 Buick and I was able to weld it on, but I don't think
stainless welds the same, and I don't think that's the way to do it.
By the way, to Hugh or Shellee or any Gordon's Imports folks who may be reading this, for any parts that you are remanufacturing, please consider offering them with stainless parts. I would pay slightly more for parts that I knew would not rust in the future. I ordered a set of 11 stainless steel brake lines from www.inlinetube.comso we'll see how those come out.
P.S. Do folks put back in those funny headed bolts that attach the propellor shafts to the transmission and are also used in the rear wheels, or do folks switch to allen headed bolts? I was able to borrow one of those
12 sided star tools to remove those bolts from a cousin who has a Volkswagon, but there was barely room
to get the tool in fairly straight to remove the propellor shafts, and I'm surprised I got them off.
Jim Bihari
white convertible top I ordered was black! (I guess I should have opened the box there!) I'm sure I can exchange it for the correct color, but before I do, I thought I would get your opinions. I had a white
car that had a black top that needed replaced and a black convertible boot that is still okay.
I'm having the car painted red and I wanted to get a white top (and I figured that if I kept the black
boot, it wouldn't matter because no one would seat the top and the boot at the same time anyway.)
Do folks with white tops find that they are hard to keep clean?
Do folks with black tops find that they make the car way too hot?
Unrelated to this, recently I got some lights with stainless steel screws and a stainless steel accelerator cable.
Someone told me that stainless steel would not stick to a magnet, and that stainless steel should not be used
for applications where the bolt must be strong. I found that a refrigerator magnet will not stick to the stainless screw but will stick to the stainless cable as well as it sticks to a regular steel cable. A very strong
neodynium magnet will just barely stick to the stainless screw, but will stick easily to the regular steel cable and the stainless steel cable. Are there varying degrees of stainless steel where some have more iron in them
than other and some are stronger than others but some are more rust resistant?
Also, if I take the regular complete accelerator cable I got from Hugh and put in the stainless cable only I got from Rob, how do I attach the piece of forked metal that fit on the front to the stainless cable? Once I had
to put an end on a emergency brake cable for a 59 Buick and I was able to weld it on, but I don't think
stainless welds the same, and I don't think that's the way to do it.
By the way, to Hugh or Shellee or any Gordon's Imports folks who may be reading this, for any parts that you are remanufacturing, please consider offering them with stainless parts. I would pay slightly more for parts that I knew would not rust in the future. I ordered a set of 11 stainless steel brake lines from www.inlinetube.comso we'll see how those come out.
P.S. Do folks put back in those funny headed bolts that attach the propellor shafts to the transmission and are also used in the rear wheels, or do folks switch to allen headed bolts? I was able to borrow one of those
12 sided star tools to remove those bolts from a cousin who has a Volkswagon, but there was barely room
to get the tool in fairly straight to remove the propellor shafts, and I'm surprised I got them off.
Jim Bihari
