Wheel Cylinders

[Gord Souter]

From: "arctic432003" <willy-linda@pandora.be>


Can anyone tell me an other parts number, or what brand the wheel
brake cylinders front and rear are? They are missing on my car and I
cant find a replacement.
Front: 6-23-09 + 6-23-09A + 6-23-10 + 6-23-10A
Rear: 6-23-29

Thanks,
Willy from Belgium

So far I have not found any replacement for the front wheel cyl. or the
original style piston in it but am looking.
For the rear I have a replacement that will work ,I have to do a mod to it
and a mod has to be done to your backing plate and the shoes but then it
works real good.
I do stock these at $50 exchange or $75.00 outright.
I also have kits and pistons for rear and just kits for front.
I have master cylinders with proper internals in them.
I have found a cheaper rear flex line too.
NEW TO MY LIST at better prices is
Front brake springs
emergency brake cable boot
Brake light switch./w /male ends!
Vent window levers,
Headlight holders with chrome ring,
Church keys(open Trunks)
Window cranks and rosette kit
Sun visors(use your brackets)

Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,

MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820

I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
over 700 different parts for sale.
Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!

BY THE WAY.
SOMEONE FROM ARGENTINA SENT ME A CHECK FOR $3500US
FOR THERE CLIENT ETC. ETC.
I GUESS THEY GOT MY ADDRESS FROM HERE OR THE CLUB CLASSIFIED
I AM TAKING IT TO LOCAL POLICE TODAY.







---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

 

[Daniel & Kathy Gibson]

FWIW, the guy at the local VW shop told me that the rear wheel cylinders
are late 50's Bug. Can anyone confirm/deny this rumor?

 

[markamsdill@charter.net>]

Re: Re: wheel cylinders

Hello All, I rebuilt my own cylinders and found the rear bleeders to be VW. I
cant remember exactly but I think the rears are VW and the fronts Volvo. Good
luck from snowy Michigan, Mark Amsdill 62 white,
>
> From: Daniel & Kathy Gibson <dkgibson3@comcast.net>
> Date: 2005/03/04 Fri PM 10:23:32 EST
> To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [amphicar-lovers] wheel cylinders
>
>

</td></tr>

<table>
<tt>
FWIW, the guy at the local VW shop told me that the rear wheel cylinders

are late 50's Bug. Can anyone confirm/deny this rumor?

</tt>



<tt>
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</tt>

 

[amphiguru]

If you are clever, you can have a machine shop modify an over-the-
counter rear wheel cylinder piston to fit the original Amphicar
cylinder. The cylinder itself cannot be used as it sits about 1/8
of and inch out from the backing plate. Therefore, the brake shoes
would engage the pistons at an angle, causing the shoes to
improperly align inside the brake drum. However, the piston is only
slightly longer than the original and possibly can be machined
down. (Notice the contact at the boot end is also farther out, so
the shoes start to operate sooner.)

I believe Gord Souter has these machined, modified parts in stock.
Two years ago, Gord stopped by our warehouse and showed us a sample
of the cylinder and planned modifications.

Meanwhile, we have imported original cylinders, so it may be a mute
point (no. 6-23-29a rear cylinder @129.95 + $40.00 core charge
each). We also carry complete rubber renewal kits for all original
wheel cylinders:

6-23-13/15 Kit Front wheel cylinder rubber kit @ $13.48 each (you
need 4 kits to do all front cylinders)

6-23-32/34 Kit Rear wheel cylinder rubber kit @ $26.96 each (you
need 2 kits to do both rear cylinders)

 

[Larry & Nancy Solheim]

Thanks for the posts, Hugh. It's good to have you
active on the group!

--LarryS

--- amphiguru <hughg@gordonimports.com> wrote:
>
> If you are clever, you can have a machine shop
> modify an over-the-
> counter rear wheel cylinder piston to fit the
> original Amphicar
> cylinder. The cylinder itself cannot be used as it
> sits about 1/8
> of and inch out from the backing plate. Therefore,
> the brake shoes
> would engage the pistons at an angle, causing the
> shoes to
> improperly align inside the brake drum. However,
> the piston is only
> slightly longer than the original and possibly can
> be machined
> down. (Notice the contact at the boot end is also
> farther out, so
> the shoes start to operate sooner.)
>
> I believe Gord Souter has these machined, modified
> parts in stock.
> Two years ago, Gord stopped by our warehouse and
> showed us a sample
> of the cylinder and planned modifications.
>
> Meanwhile, we have imported original cylinders, so
> it may be a mute
> point (no. 6-23-29a rear cylinder @129.95 + $40.00
> core charge
> each). We also carry complete rubber renewal kits
> for all original
> wheel cylinders:
>
> 6-23-13/15 Kit Front wheel cylinder rubber kit @
> $13.48 each (you
> need 4 kits to do all front cylinders)
>
> 6-23-32/34 Kit Rear wheel cylinder rubber kit @
> $26.96 each (you
> need 2 kits to do both rear cylinders)
>
>
>
>

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[rdboggie@comcast.net]

<table>
Has anyone found a way to keep water out of wheel cylinders? The rubber end caps clearly do not keep water out and sitting water results in rust and pitting which results in siezed pistons. Once pitted... and despite a good cleaning...it's nigh impossible to create a good seal, as evidenced by the puddle of brake fluid on my garage floor.

thanks,
Randy
Gaithersburg, MD

 

[David Chapman]

> Has anyone found a way to keep water out of wheel cylinders? The rubber
> end caps clearly do not keep water out and sitting water results in rust
> and pitting which results in siezed > pistons. Once pitted... and despite
> a good cleaning...it's nigh impossible to create a good seal, as evidenced
> by the puddle of brake fluid on my garage floor.

Yes, you need to use red brake grease, fill the gap under the rubber cap
with it and you should have no problems for at least 10 years.

I know red brake grease is a bit difficult to find in the States but Google
should locate you a supplier, even if it has to come from one of the UK
parts specialists, the brand I use is Girling but there are others.

David C

 

[rdboggie@comcast.net]

<table>
Thanks David. I guess the secret is not only water resistent, but something that will not react with rubber.

R.

<blockquote style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message --------------
From: "David Chapman" <david@manbus.com>

<div id="ygrp-text">


> Has anyone found a way to keep water out of wheel cylinders? The rubber
> end caps clearly do not keep water out and sitting water results in rust
> and pitting which results in siezed > pistons. Once pitted... and despite
> a good cleaning...it'<wbr>s nigh impossible to create a good seal, as evidenced
> by the puddle of brake fluid on my garage floor.

Yes, you need to use red brake grease, fill the gap under the rubber cap
with it and you should have no problems for at least 10 years.

I know red brake grease is a bit difficult to find in the States but Google
should locate you a supplier, even if it has to come from one of the UK
parts specialists, the brand I use is Girling but there are others.

David C

</blockquote>

 

[glennyrosa@comcast.net]

<table>
There's also a guy in Washington state that does stainless steel cylinder sleeving. He does beautiful work and the price is very reasonable compared to a new cylinder. About half the cost or less. Fortunately I have not needed his services. My thought was to send him all my cylinders, including the master, then convert to synthetic fluid. That would solve a lot of issues.

Hagen's Auto Parts & Machine
253.845.7020
www.hapinc.com

<blockquote style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message --------------
From: "David Chapman" <david@manbus.com>

<div id="ygrp-text">


> Has anyone found a way to keep water out of wheel cylinders? The rubber
> end caps clearly do not keep water out and sitting water results in rust
> and pitting which results in siezed > pistons. Once pitted... and despite
> a good cleaning...it'<wbr>s nigh impossible to create a good seal, as evidenced
> by the puddle of brake fluid on my garage floor.

Yes, you need to use red brake grease, fill the gap under the rubber cap
with it and you should have no problems for at least 10 years.

I know red brake grease is a bit difficult to find in the States but Google
should locate you a supplier, even if it has to come from one of the UK
parts specialists, the brand I use is Girling but there are others.

David C

</blockquote>

 

[mstrug@juno.com]

Hey David:is there a mil spec # on the grease to cross reference? Amphigr66n.

 

[David Chapman]

> Hey David: is there a mil spec # on the grease to cross reference?
> Amphigr66n.

No, and I've never understood why it's not widely available there - must be
the climate !

A few Brit old car guys I know who now live in the States always take a few
tubes back when they are over here. I think Moss stock it there as well as a
few other Brit car places but Ebay is probably the best place. Look at item
number 150130862177 that's the stuff.

David C

 

[Terry Cassem]

<table>
I had Hagen's line my brake cylinders with SS sleeves. No problems since then. Two years ago it was about $48 each.



Capn' Terry in Tacoma







on 6/8/07 12:50 PM, glennyrosa@comcast.net at glennyrosa@comcast.net wrote:



<blockquote>There's also a guy in Washington state that does stainless steel cylinder sleeving. He does beautiful work and the price is very reasonable compared to a new cylinder. About half the cost or less. Fortunately I have not needed his services. My thought was to send him all my cylinders, including the master, then convert to synthetic fluid. That would solve a lot of issues.



Hagen's Auto Parts & Machine

253.845.7020

www.hapinc.com



<blockquote>-------------- Original message --------------

From: "David Chapman" <david@manbus.com>

> Has anyone found a way to keep water out of wheel cylinders? The rubber

> end caps clearly do not keep water out and sitting water results in rust

> and pitting which results in siezed > pistons. Once pitted... and despite

> a good cleaning...it's nigh impossible to create a good seal, as evidenced

> by the puddle of brake fluid on my garage floor.



Yes, you need to use red brake grease, fill the gap under the rubber cap

with it and you should have no problems for at least 10 years.



I know red brake grease is a bit difficult to find in the States but Google

should locate you a supplier, even if it has to come from one of the UK

parts specialists, the brand I use is Girling but there are others.



David C



</blockquote>

</blockquote>

 

[David Chapman]

Bit more info, as I've been in the garage this morning.

The actual tubes I have here are branded Lucas PFG102

A quick Google shows these people sell it for $7 a tube.

http://www.hdrogers.com/Morgan.html

David C

 

[mstrug@juno.com]

Yes, Ebay is Great!I am the current high bidder on a Duck-W! Amphigr66n...