I used 1/4" lexan from a commercial source and it worked okay but I occasionally feel a tiny flex. I had a local sign company cut out the floor pattern on the lexan. If I had it to do again, I'd go a little thicker but the price and cutting difficulty rises accordingly. I'm also worried about long term but maybe that's just me. It's been in there going on 2 years with no real complaint. The recommendation to use it came from a respected Amphi supplier and I specifically asked if in his experience, the 1/4 inch was thick "enough." He said it was and has proven true so far. The car had 1/2" plywood before so it is definitely an improvement.
Lexan joke.... at least you can see how much water is pouring into the hull through the floorboard!
Subject: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20741] What do I use for a Floorboard??
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 22:58:57 -0400
Has anybody used clear plexiglass, acrylic, or Lexan for a floorboard? If so how thick - I've seen acrylic at .220" and Lexan at .230". What other material works good?
I use a waterproof 3/16" (I think) masonite type backer board I get at a local lumber (not Home Cheap-O or the like) It works well, wears like the original because it's the same material as original. It was about $40 per sheet. Cut out new one using old as pattern, rivet the metal pieces holding the access plate, the ring for the shifter boot and the rubber for the water shifter and you have a new floorboard for cheap. It cuts with any saw with ease. A trim saw works best for the straights and a jigsaw for the curvy parts.
I have a lexan floor in 1 of my cars since late 90's
it does scratch up over time but can still see for water if lift rubber up.,
As John said you can cut one out of hardboard.. I do have the metal rings(NOS)to hold shifter boot and water boot in place.
I also have a few NOS floor boards here.but to big to ship at a resonable cost.
And stock painted Grey boards that fit into truck with the tire hold down center as a kit.
Some guys have cut the Floor boards into smaller pcs. to make installation, and service of brake cables etc, easyer.
I also stock all engine parts, have a small block, 20 thou over built up. etc.
No Masonite is waterproof, I have made many floors along with trunk-board kits. If you make your own out of masonite you need to get tempered and oil treated masonite just like the stuff Amphicars used. The advantage is that the american size is a bit thicker. I have done tests with water and after 3 days submerged the corners started to lift slightly but after that it dried and returned to it's original state. I have in stock whatever you need just let me know. Also the best way to cut it for easier removal is from left to right in the middle of the front seat. you will have to glue masonite lips on one of the halves underneath between the seat and doors on both sides for stability in the rare event someone stepped there. but no matter how you cut it, you still have to remove the front seat for access..