Below is what was in the newsletter regarding this seal from Marc our
past president. I have also installed these several times and the
only thing I would add is don't set the seal to deep (flush) or it
won't seal to the gear. Also inspect you gear surface the seal rides
on to make sure it isn't chewed up to the point the new seal won't
work. I have had to replace the drive gear due to surface damage when
installing a new seal.
Ron Green
The seal (PN# 2-16-06) is not that difficult to replace, and the
transmission does not need to come out of the car. While I'm no
expert, I've done the job twice now and can share what little bit I
know.
The seal is reached by going in through the water transmission.
Start by putting the top down and taking the rear seat out. Then
either take the front seat out, or at least the seat backs off, just
to give yourself a little more room to work. I just took the two
front seat backs off and put a towel over the seat bottom while I
worked. This worked well.
Drain the oil out of both transmissions, then unhook all the
shifting linkages and such. The cover of the water transmission is
held on by a over a dozen nuts and one allen screw near the four
speed shifting rod. After removing them, the cover can come off. It
will take some gentle tapping on the case lugs, but resist the urge
to pry it off so that you don't damage the sealing surface.
Before the cover comes completely off the studs, take a good
look at the shaft that the four speed shifter was connected to. This
shaft will fall out, and you'll need to make sure it goes back the
same way it came out or you won't be able to shift!
You'll see a double selector fork that needs to be removed.
Directly above the shaft used to shift the water transmission is a
large hex head plug. It holds the selector fork in place. Remove it
being careful not to loose a spring and ball that are underneath.
A small double gear will slide off, and you'll then see the
drive gear held on by a large nut. Remove the nut. I found that an
impact wrench was just the trick. The "bam-bam-bam" of the impact
tool loosened it while a socket and breaker bar wouldn't. With the
bar, the transmission and engine would just turn over rather than
allow the nut to loosen.
To remove the gear, you'll need a gear puller. A small, two jaw
puller with a thin "hook" seems to be about the best bet. After
removal, inspect the shoulder on the gear. The seal "seals" against
this. Any pits or scaring will be a sure problem.
Once the gear is removed, the seal is right there, ready to be
replaced! Nothing special about going back together....just backwards
of what you've done. After reassembly, try shifting both
transmissions before adding oil. I couldn't shift the land
transmission and I realized that I messed up the shaft I mentioned
earlier. I had to go back in and fix it! Another suggestion is to
have a spare seal ready. While driving the seal into it's hole, I
damaged it and luckily had a second one! You'll also need gasket
number 2-15-18.
The Amphicar Maintenance manual has some information on taking
the
transmission apart starting on page 2/7. It's worth a look, too.
Good
luck...Marc.
--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, Greg <G_Zink_us@...> wrote:
>
> Anyone have experience changing the seal between water
> and land transmission or have problems with gear oil
> leaking from water transmission? Water trans continues
> to be bone dry after a few days. I assume it is the
> seal between the two transmissions but it doesn't
> appear it is all going into the land transmission. I
> have some oil on floor. Anyone have this issue before?
> I understand to change the seal between the two it is
> fairly easy and you just need to remove the front half
> of water trans. Appreciate any tips of instructions.
> Greg Zinkosky (Michigan)
>
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