Temp Gage

azpaul50

Member
Hi! My water temp reading is running way over left into the red after just a few miles of driving. I've used a laser gun to take hot readings at the thermostat housing and radiator inlet/outlet and it is reading no higher than 185F with the gage reading hot, hot, hot. What is the "normal" range for this car in F? I suspect the gage is off and wonder. With switch off, it is way to the right.hand side. After turning the switch on, it stays there far right (doesn't move at all) then eventually moves to the left (looking at it) until reaching it's temp reading. Is that right? Thanks! Azpaul50 of the Western Amphi Fleet.
 

CapnJohn

Amphi Guru & Former IAOC President
Paul

My best guess is that your ground for the gage may be weak or mis-wired (check both connections). The sending unit could be suspect as well. The other place to look is in the connecting block on the bulkhead ahead of the muffler. That is a "usual suspect" as well.

The original thermostats are a 165F (I think). My car runs slightly above the center mark and can rise to the bottom of the red in traffic or very hot days.

Do you have another gage and sending unit to try to see if it reacts in the same manner?
 
R

Ron Green

Guest
I don't have my amphi in front of me here at work however it sounds like you gauge is wired backwards. Looking at it: in the off position the needle should be far left and as your engine warms goes right.
 

azpaul50

Member
To: azpaul50@hotmail.comSubject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20182] Re: Temp GageDate: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 13:55:53 -0400From:



I don't have my amphi in front of me here at work however it sounds like you gauge is wired backwards. Looking at it: in the off position the needle should be far left and as your engine warms goes right.

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azpaul50

Member
With the switch off the gauge was fully right and was apparently as it should be. I then was told that with the switch on (car not running), the needle should have swung full left and then work itself to the right as the engine warmed up. Mine simply worked from right to left as the engine warmed up ending up in the left (cold) red area. That's where I left off with exchanging wires making no difference.

It now has both a new sender and gauge from Gordon's. Now, here's what I have... with switch on (car not running) the needle moves to the left but only about 1/3 to 1/2 scale (middle). Once the car is running, it does move back to the right (remember I'm starting mid-range rather than full left) as the engine warms up until it is completely off the scale full right. I even ran a different sending wire between gauge and sender with same result. It is if the initial reference (full cold, switch on) is somehow off. Seen this before? I'd hate to think the new stuff I bought was bad in some way. Thanks!
 

CapnJohn

Amphi Guru & Former IAOC President
With the switch off the gauge was fully right and was apparently as it should be. I then was told that with the switch on (car not running), the needle should have swung full left and then work itself to the right as the engine warmed up. Mine simply worked from right to left as the engine warmed up ending up in the left (cold) red area. That's where I left off with exchanging wires making no difference.

It now has both a new sender and gauge from Gordon's. Now, here's what I have... with switch on (car not running) the needle moves to the left but only about 1/3 to 1/2 scale (middle). Once the car is running, it does move back to the right (remember I'm starting mid-range rather than full left) as the engine warms up until it is completely off the scale full right. I even ran a different sending wire between gauge and sender with same result. It is if the initial reference (full cold, switch on) is somehow off. Seen this before? I'd hate to think the new stuff I bought was bad in some way. Thanks!
"New" does not mean it's good. I have PLENTY of examples of that. I try to shop where they stand behind thier products and also steer my friends to those same places. That is how you get new and keep repeat customers.

I think that your gage itself may be the problem. It is the only thing hat makes sense to me at this point.
 

azpaul50

Member
well... it turns out that both the old gage and sender were bad followed by another bad "new" sender. I ended up sending both the new gage and first new sender back to Gordon's for their own verifying bench check. That replacement sender was pronounced as bad but the replacement is only somewhat better. Everything now moves in the correct direction but the full cold still doesn't go all the way to the left. At least the needle is somewhere in the normal range when warmed up. Frankly, I'm tired of messing with it and now the starter is dragging. It was about the newest looking thing in the car when I got this heap and had joined the rest of the car in plotting against me! Is it just me or is getting to that bottom starter bolt as hard as it looks? Okay... what's the trick?
 

Bilgemaster

Member
Fear not! Chin up! Hunker down!, etc., &c. et cetera.

It's all part of the rebirthing process. Your Amphi is merely testing
your resolve, dedication and ingenuity, kinda like a prom date whose
mamma superglued her brassiere clasps shut. Just dig in, and you'll
get there all the same.

Regards,
Bilgey


On Dec 15, 2008, at 12:35 AM, azpaul50 wrote:


> well... it turns out that both the old gage and sender were bad
> followed by another bad "new" sender. I ended up sending both the
> new gage and first new sender back to Gordon's for their own
> verifying bench check. That replacement sender was pronounced as
> bad but the replacement is only somewhat better. Everything now
> moves in the correct direction but the full cold still doesn't go
> all the way to the left. At least the needle is somewhere in the
> normal range when warmed up. Frankly, I'm tired of messing with it
> and now the starter is dragging. It was about the newest looking
> thing in the car when I got this heap and had joined the rest of
> the car in plotting against me! Is it just me or is getting to that
> bottom starter bolt as hard as it looks? Okay... what's the trick?
>
>
 

CapnJohn

Amphi Guru & Former IAOC President
Is it just me or is getting to that bottom starter bolt as hard as it looks? Okay... what's the trick?
I go in from in the back seat. I think it's easier to reach than having my chest on the fin. I remove the front seat back 1st for better access and then pad the bulkhead to lie on.
 

azpaul50

Member
Chest? Man.... you must have long arms! I now have a "fin" valley in my belly that I didn't have before. I got a few licks on that bottom bolt from above yesterday but then a cold front rolled in (it's outside right now) and I quit for the day. I also tried the seat approach and couldn't find a combination of extensions that allowed me to turn the bolt without something else in the way. As a skilled procrastinator, I'm managing to avoid going back out because I have important correspondence to answer first!

To: azpaul50@hotmail.comSubject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20182] Re: Temp GageDate: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 11:46:18 -0500From:




Quote:



Is it just me or is getting to that bottom starter bolt as hard as it looks? Okay... what's the trick? I go in from in the back seat. I think it's easier to reach than having my chest on the fin. I remove the front seat back 1st for better access and then pad the bulkhead to lie on.

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CapnJohn

Amphi Guru & Former IAOC President
Chest? Man.... you must have long arms! I now have a "fin" valley in my belly that I didn't have before. I got a few licks on that bottom bolt from above yesterday but then a cold front rolled in (it's outside right now) and I quit for the day. I also tried the seat approach and couldn't find a combination of extensions that allowed me to turn the bolt without something else in the way. As a skilled procrastinator, I'm managing to avoid going back out because I have important correspondence to answer first!
Because I can't stand up, I put moving blankets on the fin, pull myself up and onto it then lean in... sometimes. It is painful so I avoid that when I can.

OOPS! Your comment sparked some clarity! I use 3 long extentions and a universal on the short socket along the bilge floor under the water tranny to get in there that is why I go in through the back seat. The universal or "wobbly" is the key.

It was only -21 here this AM. Broke a 108 year old record.:cool:
 

azpaul50

Member
I got the starter out entirely from the top. Now the problem is getting the washers and nut on the bottom. So far I've fished the dropped hardware from the bilges ten times with a magnet extension. Now, a nut has completely dissappeared somewhere down there as nothing turns up scraping along the bottom, magnet or not. I would like to take this opportunity to apologize to Austin Motors amd Nash/AMC. I recall sending them all to damnation messing with various parts on my Metropolitan... Gerling brakes mostly. I now know, and info for anyone concerned with the afterlife, that upon entering the lower regions, your greeting WILL BE IN GERMAN!!

To: azpaul50@hotmail.comSubject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20182] Re: Temp GageDate: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 12:40:31 -0500From:




Quote:




Originally Posted by azpaul50
Is it just me or is getting to that bottom starter bolt as hard as it looks? Okay... what's the trick?I'm trying to remember how I did it. I suspect the engine might have been out of the car at the time...

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