SV: SV: Propeller Shaft U-Joints


Bo Strander

Hi Steve,
The best "glue" you can use is what i call a "long" grease. That is a grease
that when you put a small portion between your thumb and one of your fingers
form long "curtains" when you again separate your fingers. (compare
different greases and you will see what I mean)
Up here in sweden I can not find the Amsoil products (I have tried) so I
don't know what to recommend out of there line.
For the amphicar I personally uses Shell SRS4000, which is a red,
marine-grease witch is totally wash-out safe (and extremly sticky!!). I use
this grease for most applications where a thick grease-film (over 0,01mm)
is possible to use (roller-bearings, threads etc.) This grease is superb
when you need to hold the needles in the bearing-cages.
Please note: I have been advised by Shell to use this grease. I have no
personal experience how it will work in real life, so I can not
guarantee anything.

On the other hand: If all the needles have gone out of the cages you will
probably end up with some encapsulated dirt trying to put them back. Going
this far I would suggest new yokes, the cost is not high enough comparing to
the risk with vibrations, noises may end up with (and another

Talking about greases: In my job as service engineer ( I services and
calibrates length-maesuring instruments with an accuracy down to 0,1 ?m) I
always carry four different greases with me:
One very thick and tacky: For screws with worn threads that still needs to
have a smoth "ride", shafts for adjusting wheels where I want a "high-cost"
feeling etc.
One medium grease: For standard application with high accuracy grinded
One very thin grease: For small ball and neddle bearings and surfaces where
I want extra low friction.
White grease or Vaselin: To use as protection of grinded steelsurfaces. Very
easy to mechanically wipe away.

Hope I have given you some useful hints.
bo the swede
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fr?n: amphicar_reich []
Skickat: den 20 augusti 2003 04:32
?mne: Re: SV: [amphicar-lovers] Propeller Shaft U-Joints


Thanks, Bo. I still don't understand the mechanics, but if you hit
the cap and/or yoke enough times in the right sequence, the whole
thing comes apart.

Now my question is, "How do you get all those little rollers back in?"


'64 red (AMPHICR) still in the driveway, now in more pieces
'64 red (I SWIM 2) happy to be home from Celina, but feeling negected

--- In, "Bo Strander" <bs@a...> wrote:
> Hi Steve,
> No big deal actually to remove and overhaul your u-joints (that is
if yo?
> have your axles out of the car on your working bench).
> - First mark both forks with a punchmark or similar so you now how
to put
> them together again.
> - Take away the circlips
> - Use a socket that fitts inside where the circlips was placed, as
large as
> possible but well inside the "walls".
> - With a hammer ( preferably a soft one that eliminates uneven
strokes, and
> hitting as perpendicular towards the bearing cage as possible) and
some even
> strokes on the top of the socket you should notice that the
opposite bearing
> cage is moving towards the flange (down towards the bench).
> - When you have driven the lower bearing cage as far down as
possible, you
> invert the axel 180? and now by hitting the fork (not the
case!) you
> drive the other bearing cage as far out as possible.
> -You should now be able to manouvre out the u-joint from the
bearing cages
> and thereby separate the two axle -halves.
> -You now have two bearing cages driven half way out of the fork.
Use a soft
> plier with soft grips or some soft cloth or plastic
> in between the grips, and take out the bearing cages.
> -Assembling is straightforward, no problems there: Take care when
you drive
> home the bearing cages that you drive them carefully, make sure not
to tilt
> them (if tilted they will jam). Also take care not to drive them
home to
> far, just enough to fit the snaprings.
> When you put together the two axle-parts again make sure you follow
> markings you did at the start. Then you should have no problems with
> misalignement and vibrations.
> Hope you can understand my sw-english :) and good luck with the
> Honestly: If you have taken out the driveshafts from your car , you
> have no problems with this job.
> Good luck
> Bo the swede (painting my amphi next month)

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David Chapman

Quoting Bo Strander <>:

> Hope I have given you some useful hints.
> bo the swede

Thanks Bo, that is useful. There are some synthetic greases available in Europe
that should work the same as Amsoil. The spec sheets are on the Amsoil website
and synthetic products made by Agip and Shell look to be very close. I don't
think there is a good alternative to Amsoil gear lube which works very well in
the Amphicar transmission, I wouldn't use anything else.

Synthetic products cost much less in the US so even with shipping charges which
double the cost, they cost no more than local products so you might as well use

Amsoil will not ship to the UK so I order it on their website and get it
shipped to a friend in the US and then get them to ship it to Europe using USPS
surface mail which takes about 6 weeks.

David C

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