B
Bo Strander
Guest
Hi Steve,
The best "glue" you can use is what i call a "long" grease. That is a grease
that when you put a small portion between your thumb and one of your fingers
form long "curtains" when you again separate your fingers. (compare
different greases and you will see what I mean)
Up here in sweden I can not find the Amsoil products (I have tried) so I
don't know what to recommend out of there line.
For the amphicar I personally uses Shell SRS4000, which is a red,
marine-grease witch is totally wash-out safe (and extremly sticky!!). I use
this grease for most applications where a thick grease-film (over 0,01mm)
is possible to use (roller-bearings, threads etc.) This grease is superb
when you need to hold the needles in the bearing-cages.
Please note: I have been advised by Shell to use this grease. I have no
personal experience how it will work in real life, so I can not
guarantee anything.
On the other hand: If all the needles have gone out of the cages you will
probably end up with some encapsulated dirt trying to put them back. Going
this far I would suggest new yokes, the cost is not high enough comparing to
the risk with vibrations, noises etc.you may end up with (and another
dismantling.....)
Talking about greases: In my job as service engineer ( I services and
calibrates length-maesuring instruments with an accuracy down to 0,1 ?m) I
always carry four different greases with me:
One very thick and tacky: For screws with worn threads that still needs to
have a smoth "ride", shafts for adjusting wheels where I want a "high-cost"
feeling etc.
One medium grease: For standard application with high accuracy grinded
surfaces.
One very thin grease: For small ball and neddle bearings and surfaces where
I want extra low friction.
White grease or Vaselin: To use as protection of grinded steelsurfaces. Very
easy to mechanically wipe away.
Hope I have given you some useful hints.
bo the swede
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fr?n: amphicar_reich [mailto:sdreich@pacbell.net]
Skickat: den 20 augusti 2003 04:32
Till: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
?mne: Re: SV: [amphicar-lovers] Propeller Shaft U-Joints
Hi-
Thanks, Bo. I still don't understand the mechanics, but if you hit
the cap and/or yoke enough times in the right sequence, the whole
thing comes apart.
Now my question is, "How do you get all those little rollers back in?"
-Steve
'64 red (AMPHICR) still in the driveway, now in more pieces
'64 red (I SWIM 2) happy to be home from Celina, but feeling negected
--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "Bo Strander" <bs@a...> wrote:
> Hi Steve,
> No big deal actually to remove and overhaul your u-joints (that is
if yo?
> have your axles out of the car on your working bench).
> - First mark both forks with a punchmark or similar so you now how
to put
> them together again.
> - Take away the circlips
> - Use a socket that fitts inside where the circlips was placed, as
large as
> possible but well inside the "walls".
> - With a hammer ( preferably a soft one that eliminates uneven
strokes, and
> hitting as perpendicular towards the bearing cage as possible) and
some even
> strokes on the top of the socket you should notice that the
opposite bearing
> cage is moving towards the flange (down towards the bench).
> - When you have driven the lower bearing cage as far down as
possible, you
> invert the axel 180? and now by hitting the fork (not the
bearing
case!) you
> drive the other bearing cage as far out as possible.
> -You should now be able to manouvre out the u-joint from the
bearing cages
> and thereby separate the two axle -halves.
> -You now have two bearing cages driven half way out of the fork.
Use a soft
> plier with soft grips or some soft cloth or plastic
> in between the grips, and take out the bearing cages.
> -Assembling is straightforward, no problems there: Take care when
you drive
> home the bearing cages that you drive them carefully, make sure not
to tilt
> them (if tilted they will jam). Also take care not to drive them
home to
> far, just enough to fit the snaprings.
>
> When you put together the two axle-parts again make sure you follow
the
> markings you did at the start. Then you should have no problems with
> misalignement and vibrations.
>
> Hope you can understand my sw-english
and good luck with the
work.
> Honestly: If you have taken out the driveshafts from your car , you
should
> have no problems with this job.
>
> Good luck
> Bo the swede (painting my amphi next month)
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The best "glue" you can use is what i call a "long" grease. That is a grease
that when you put a small portion between your thumb and one of your fingers
form long "curtains" when you again separate your fingers. (compare
different greases and you will see what I mean)
Up here in sweden I can not find the Amsoil products (I have tried) so I
don't know what to recommend out of there line.
For the amphicar I personally uses Shell SRS4000, which is a red,
marine-grease witch is totally wash-out safe (and extremly sticky!!). I use
this grease for most applications where a thick grease-film (over 0,01mm)
is possible to use (roller-bearings, threads etc.) This grease is superb
when you need to hold the needles in the bearing-cages.
Please note: I have been advised by Shell to use this grease. I have no
personal experience how it will work in real life, so I can not
guarantee anything.
On the other hand: If all the needles have gone out of the cages you will
probably end up with some encapsulated dirt trying to put them back. Going
this far I would suggest new yokes, the cost is not high enough comparing to
the risk with vibrations, noises etc.you may end up with (and another
dismantling.....)
Talking about greases: In my job as service engineer ( I services and
calibrates length-maesuring instruments with an accuracy down to 0,1 ?m) I
always carry four different greases with me:
One very thick and tacky: For screws with worn threads that still needs to
have a smoth "ride", shafts for adjusting wheels where I want a "high-cost"
feeling etc.
One medium grease: For standard application with high accuracy grinded
surfaces.
One very thin grease: For small ball and neddle bearings and surfaces where
I want extra low friction.
White grease or Vaselin: To use as protection of grinded steelsurfaces. Very
easy to mechanically wipe away.
Hope I have given you some useful hints.
bo the swede
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fr?n: amphicar_reich [mailto:sdreich@pacbell.net]
Skickat: den 20 augusti 2003 04:32
Till: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
?mne: Re: SV: [amphicar-lovers] Propeller Shaft U-Joints
Hi-
Thanks, Bo. I still don't understand the mechanics, but if you hit
the cap and/or yoke enough times in the right sequence, the whole
thing comes apart.
Now my question is, "How do you get all those little rollers back in?"
-Steve
'64 red (AMPHICR) still in the driveway, now in more pieces
'64 red (I SWIM 2) happy to be home from Celina, but feeling negected
--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "Bo Strander" <bs@a...> wrote:
> Hi Steve,
> No big deal actually to remove and overhaul your u-joints (that is
if yo?
> have your axles out of the car on your working bench).
> - First mark both forks with a punchmark or similar so you now how
to put
> them together again.
> - Take away the circlips
> - Use a socket that fitts inside where the circlips was placed, as
large as
> possible but well inside the "walls".
> - With a hammer ( preferably a soft one that eliminates uneven
strokes, and
> hitting as perpendicular towards the bearing cage as possible) and
some even
> strokes on the top of the socket you should notice that the
opposite bearing
> cage is moving towards the flange (down towards the bench).
> - When you have driven the lower bearing cage as far down as
possible, you
> invert the axel 180? and now by hitting the fork (not the
bearing
case!) you
> drive the other bearing cage as far out as possible.
> -You should now be able to manouvre out the u-joint from the
bearing cages
> and thereby separate the two axle -halves.
> -You now have two bearing cages driven half way out of the fork.
Use a soft
> plier with soft grips or some soft cloth or plastic
> in between the grips, and take out the bearing cages.
> -Assembling is straightforward, no problems there: Take care when
you drive
> home the bearing cages that you drive them carefully, make sure not
to tilt
> them (if tilted they will jam). Also take care not to drive them
home to
> far, just enough to fit the snaprings.
>
> When you put together the two axle-parts again make sure you follow
the
> markings you did at the start. Then you should have no problems with
> misalignement and vibrations.
>
> Hope you can understand my sw-english
and good luck with thework.
> Honestly: If you have taken out the driveshafts from your car , you
should
> have no problems with this job.
>
> Good luck
> Bo the swede (painting my amphi next month)
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Before posting requests for information, please check the List
Archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
For more information about this List and other available services
visit:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
amphicar770@yahoo.com
This list is provided as a free service. Please support our sponsors at:
http://www.growerflower.com/default.asp?id=41762
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
