B
Bo Strander
Guest
Hello Michael,
your damper-problems might be caused by air in the dampers. If your dampers
are of the standard-type (not gas-filled) and your dampers where stored
horisontally, or if they where tilted horisontally during transportation you
normally need to bleed-out the air. This is simply done by 5 -8 fully
strokes (from one mechanical end-stop to the other without any springs or
rubber cushions installed) in a vertical position.
Ofcourse this can't be done with the dampers mounted in the car.
There is a good chance you will here the airbubbles disappear and feel the
improvement of the resistance while you are "pumping" up the dampers. After
the bleeding: make sure to keep your dampers vertical during mounting.
Best of luck.
Bo the swede
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fr?n: Michael Echemann [mailto:echemike@sbcglobal.net]
Skickat: den 2 november 2003 19:38
Till: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
?mne: [amphicar-lovers] Shocks/Front Wheel
Last month I posted a note about how my right front wheel at Holland
started
to bounce up and down while traveling about 40mph. It's not done it since
however I did have some weird creeks etc afterwards. Yesterday I took off
the pan and all the steering linkages were clean, tight and appear to be
as
new. I went ahead and replaced both wheel bearings on the front right and
repacked the hub. Then I installed a set of new Alden front shocks I'd
purchased from Gordon's a year or two ago. The old shocks never gave me
any
problems but I felt I may as well put the new ones on. The car took the
bolt on from the wheel well type on top not the stem through the fender so
they came pre installed with new springs .
Has anyone had problems with these? Once installed in the garage the cars
front end was much more bouncy while the old ones simply came back up once
and stopped as they should. The new ones also had a rakish up and down
sound almost like the stems were rusty and rubbing which they were not.
Finally I drove the car and they provide a more bouncy ride and don't seem
to bottom out easily but they sure do "top out" easily. Simply going over
a
manhole cover causes a clank which if obviously the shock reaching full
extension. Has anyone experienced this?
When the Aldan's first came out some reports suggested this however lately
I've heard nothing but great things about these shocks. I'd be curious to
here from others as to how they like them and specifically from anyone who
has installed the front early shocks with springs pre installed and bolt
on
tops. I noticed each shock has two adjusting valves. On top it's a knob
and on the bottom it's a small inset screw. Don't the current Aldan's
just
have one knob on top for adjustments? Has anyone played with these
adjustments with success? My old ones had no leaks and worked fine so I'm
I
cannot get these corrected I'll be reinstalling them.
Returning to the wheel bouncing issue: I can't seem to find a cause so
I'll
inspect the tire which is fairly new. I had a small bit of play in the
tire
when I rocked it at 6 and 12 o'clock and after changing the bearings it
was
still there. The car seems to run ok and I've not been able to duplicate
the wheel bounce situation again. It only happened that one time but it
sure was hairy for a second or two.
Mike
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Before posting requests for information, please check the List
Archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
For more information about this List and other available services
visit:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
amphicar770@yahoo.com
This list is provided as a free service. Please support our sponsors at:
http://www.growerflower.com/default.asp?id=41762
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
your damper-problems might be caused by air in the dampers. If your dampers
are of the standard-type (not gas-filled) and your dampers where stored
horisontally, or if they where tilted horisontally during transportation you
normally need to bleed-out the air. This is simply done by 5 -8 fully
strokes (from one mechanical end-stop to the other without any springs or
rubber cushions installed) in a vertical position.
Ofcourse this can't be done with the dampers mounted in the car.
There is a good chance you will here the airbubbles disappear and feel the
improvement of the resistance while you are "pumping" up the dampers. After
the bleeding: make sure to keep your dampers vertical during mounting.
Best of luck.
Bo the swede
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fr?n: Michael Echemann [mailto:echemike@sbcglobal.net]
Skickat: den 2 november 2003 19:38
Till: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
?mne: [amphicar-lovers] Shocks/Front Wheel
Last month I posted a note about how my right front wheel at Holland
started
to bounce up and down while traveling about 40mph. It's not done it since
however I did have some weird creeks etc afterwards. Yesterday I took off
the pan and all the steering linkages were clean, tight and appear to be
as
new. I went ahead and replaced both wheel bearings on the front right and
repacked the hub. Then I installed a set of new Alden front shocks I'd
purchased from Gordon's a year or two ago. The old shocks never gave me
any
problems but I felt I may as well put the new ones on. The car took the
bolt on from the wheel well type on top not the stem through the fender so
they came pre installed with new springs .
Has anyone had problems with these? Once installed in the garage the cars
front end was much more bouncy while the old ones simply came back up once
and stopped as they should. The new ones also had a rakish up and down
sound almost like the stems were rusty and rubbing which they were not.
Finally I drove the car and they provide a more bouncy ride and don't seem
to bottom out easily but they sure do "top out" easily. Simply going over
a
manhole cover causes a clank which if obviously the shock reaching full
extension. Has anyone experienced this?
When the Aldan's first came out some reports suggested this however lately
I've heard nothing but great things about these shocks. I'd be curious to
here from others as to how they like them and specifically from anyone who
has installed the front early shocks with springs pre installed and bolt
on
tops. I noticed each shock has two adjusting valves. On top it's a knob
and on the bottom it's a small inset screw. Don't the current Aldan's
just
have one knob on top for adjustments? Has anyone played with these
adjustments with success? My old ones had no leaks and worked fine so I'm
I
cannot get these corrected I'll be reinstalling them.
Returning to the wheel bouncing issue: I can't seem to find a cause so
I'll
inspect the tire which is fairly new. I had a small bit of play in the
tire
when I rocked it at 6 and 12 o'clock and after changing the bearings it
was
still there. The car seems to run ok and I've not been able to duplicate
the wheel bounce situation again. It only happened that one time but it
sure was hairy for a second or two.
Mike
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Before posting requests for information, please check the List
Archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
For more information about this List and other available services
visit:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
amphicar770@yahoo.com
This list is provided as a free service. Please support our sponsors at:
http://www.growerflower.com/default.asp?id=41762
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
