R
rogtwo@aol.com
Guest
If the part of the housing that is rusted is flat or a simple curve, then you
could shape a piece of sheet metal to fit and weld, rivet, or glue it in
place with epoxy.
If not this, then how about fiberglass? Fiberglass will be significantly
stronger than Marine Tex when used in a thin layer and should be good for about
the same temperature range. To repair it with fiberglass, you will need both
the fiberglass cloth, and the epoxy resin to saturate the cloth with. If the
holes you are repairing are small (like 1/2 inch or less), then the fiberglass
will probably hold its shape by its self while it hardens. If you have big
holes or missing sections, then you may need to temporarily tape forms to the
housing to hold the fiberglass in the correct shape while it hardens. You can
use cardboard, styrofoam, wood, or any other handy material to make the forms.
Put plastic wrap on the forms to keep them from sticking to the epoxy.
Roger
White '63
Seattle
In a message dated 2/13/04 7:05:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ahite@Charleston.Net writes:
I took out my radiator for repair. In the process I broke one of
the radiator mounts (item# 9-30-38) Also I discovered my air intake
housing is pretty rusted along the bottom where the oil cooler mounts.
I have scrapped and wire brushed the air intake housing. I also
painted it with a rust inhibitor. Tomorrow I plan to rebuild the rusted
through spots with some Marine-tex. Marine-tex sets up hard and is heat
rated for engine blocks. Problem is, even when it is first mixed, it's
kind of stiff and difficult to work. Is there some other product that
might work better?
Hugh is out of stock for the radiator mounts. Any chance I could
find something else to use? Perhaps the end of a shock absorber?
Arnold Hite
Johns Island, SC
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
could shape a piece of sheet metal to fit and weld, rivet, or glue it in
place with epoxy.
If not this, then how about fiberglass? Fiberglass will be significantly
stronger than Marine Tex when used in a thin layer and should be good for about
the same temperature range. To repair it with fiberglass, you will need both
the fiberglass cloth, and the epoxy resin to saturate the cloth with. If the
holes you are repairing are small (like 1/2 inch or less), then the fiberglass
will probably hold its shape by its self while it hardens. If you have big
holes or missing sections, then you may need to temporarily tape forms to the
housing to hold the fiberglass in the correct shape while it hardens. You can
use cardboard, styrofoam, wood, or any other handy material to make the forms.
Put plastic wrap on the forms to keep them from sticking to the epoxy.
Roger
White '63
Seattle
In a message dated 2/13/04 7:05:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ahite@Charleston.Net writes:
I took out my radiator for repair. In the process I broke one of
the radiator mounts (item# 9-30-38) Also I discovered my air intake
housing is pretty rusted along the bottom where the oil cooler mounts.
I have scrapped and wire brushed the air intake housing. I also
painted it with a rust inhibitor. Tomorrow I plan to rebuild the rusted
through spots with some Marine-tex. Marine-tex sets up hard and is heat
rated for engine blocks. Problem is, even when it is first mixed, it's
kind of stiff and difficult to work. Is there some other product that
might work better?
Hugh is out of stock for the radiator mounts. Any chance I could
find something else to use? Perhaps the end of a shock absorber?
Arnold Hite
Johns Island, SC
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]