Stuck valve AND valve cover question??

Tedredamphi

Platinum Subscriber
Okay, when I shut my Amphicar off three weeks ago it was purring like a kitten. Yesterday, It was difficult to start and ran horribly. I figured it was a stuck valve and was able to loosen and pull up the valve cover part way to determine it was the #3 exhaust valve that was stuck open.
Is there any secret to getting the valve cover completely off? Even with the inspection door removed from the firewall, I can't seem to maneuver it off.
And then is there any secret to freeing up a stuck valve, assuming that it isn't bent? Do I also need to run Marvel Mystery Oil or Instead-o-Lead in my gas to prevent this from happening?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ted Matthews
 

SNOWBIRD

Amphicar Expert
If you have the proper mounts on motor and trany(Some are too thick..high)
The valve cover will lift up then tilt to dist , side and off.The heater hose must not be in the way.
the valve could be in the open position due to a broken return spring.Hopefully it did not hit the piston and get bent, Now you would have to pull the head!
Fuel,,I add lead to each fill up along with a starbrite Ethanal additive.I try to buy fuel at marinas to get Real Fuel.
 

Tedredamphi

Platinum Subscriber
Gord,
The mounting studs for my valve cover were too tall. I shaved them off to a more appropriate length and was then able to remove the valve cover by the method that you suggested. Now I can at least see what's going on in there.
Apparently I've got a lubrication problem with my valves and guides and I'm wondering if it's because whoever rebuilt this head installed valve guide seals. I just looked at my original Amphicar head and it has NO valve guide seals on it. Any comment on this?
If I do have to rebuild a head, are there any things that I need to do special, i.e. different valves, hardened valve seats, etc.?
Thanks,
Ted
P.S.
They don't sell real fuel in Texas and where in the world do you buy lead????
 

goobcarla

Member
Ted - Search non ethanol gas texas, you'll find many stations all over Texas that sell "real gas". Lead substitute is available under the Solder Seal/Gunk brand name, part #M5012. It should be carried by NAPA and various other auto parts stores. You may also want to try Sea Foam(www.seafoamsales.com) part #SF16. I use these products on the 40 car collection which I maintain, they have solved many storage and related problems! Gary.
 

Tedredamphi

Platinum Subscriber
I try to use real gas but it is getting harder to find near the Dallas/Ft. Worth metroplex. I use a phone APP called "Pure Gas" to find real gas stations and it's now almost 100 miles to those stations. I've also been using "Instead-o-lead for an additive.
So if I have to rebuild this head , what updates do I need to make to the valves/seats/guides for the new gasoline that we burn??????
 

goobcarla

Member
Seems that hardened seats and a good valve job with new springs is about all that can be done. I've had that done to a few of the cars here, but I still use all the additives and Valvoline Racing Oil which is formulated with zinc and phosphorous(ZDDP), a must in older style engines, in my opinion. I have switched all the cars here to ethanol free gas with a mixture of Sea Foam and lead additive after replacing way to many fuel tanks, filters, pumps & carbs. It may be a good idea to pull the head just to check how "crudded-up" the inside is. If you need to continue to use ethanol fuel, try some Startron or a similar "ethanol killer treatment". Gary.
 
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