Stripped Amphicar body weight

Akamphi

Member
Would any of the Amphi guru's out there be able to give me a rough weight front and rear of the Amphi hull? Im going to tow mine out of Alaska this summer and the body is stripped and in fresh paint. it includes doors and hoods. No suspention on it and I plan to bolt the brackets I have mounted to the axle tube flanges directly to the trailer. I'm wanting to get a stable tounge weight for the drive and think the tail will be better forward as it's likely heavyer. I'd like to calculate my tounge weight estimate and where exactly to bolt it down.
 

bkahler

Member
Stripped Amphicar body weight

Craig,

I can't give you any weight info but I do have one concern about bolting it
to the trailer.

From past experience I do know most trailers flex (sometimes a lot depending
on the road condition) so if you're going to bolt the hull to the trailer I
would be very concerned with the hull getting tweeked in transit.

Just something to consider as you're fastening it to the trailer. Possibly
you can do something to minimize the stresses.

Good luck!

Brad



On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 2:08 PM, Akamphi <>wrote:


> Would any of the Amphi guru's out there be able to give me a rough weight
> front and rear of the Amphi hull? Im going to tow mine out of Alaska this
> summer and the body is stripped and in fresh paint. it includes doors and
> hoods. No suspention on it and I plan to bolt the brackets I have mounted to
> the axle tube flanges directly to the trailer. I'm wanting to get a stable
> tounge weight for the drive and think the tail will be better forward as
> it's likely heavyer. I'd like to calculate my tounge weight estimate and
> where exactly to bolt it down.
>
>
>
 

Cap'n John

Member
I've transported many bare hulls and you're better off just strapping it down. Set it on 2x6s across where the oscillating arms enter the hull. Run ratchet straps thru door openings angled back and towards the front to apply fwd and rear ward pull. This will allow flex and prevent any filler from cracking. My best guess is a bare hull weighs about 1000#s and is fairly evenly balanced f2r.
Sent from my BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: bkahler <>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 20:31:35
To: <rma@amphicar.com>
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20678] Stripped Amphicar body
weight

Craig,

I can't give you any weight info but I do have one concern about bolting it
to the trailer.

From past experience I do know most trailers flex (sometimes a lot depending
on the road condition) so if you're going to bolt the hull to the trailer I
would be very concerned with the hull getting tweeked in transit.

Just something to consider as you're fastening it to the trailer. Possibly
you can do something to minimize the stresses.

Good luck!

Brad



On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 2:08 PM, Akamphi wrote:




Quote:
> Would any of the Amphi guru's out there be able to give me a rough weight
> front and rear of the Amphi hull? Im going to tow mine out of Alaska this
> summer and the body is stripped and in fresh paint. it includes doors and
> hoods. No suspention on it and I plan to bolt the brackets I have mounted to
> the axle tube flanges directly to the trailer. I'm wanting to get a stable
> tounge weight for the drive and think the tail will be better forward as
> it's likely heavyer. I'd like to calculate my tounge weight estimate and
> where exactly to bolt it down.
>
>
>
 

Akamphi

Member
Thanks to both of you. Love this group! :)

I hadn't considered the flexing issues. It does sit up fairly high on the brackets I made as well so removing them entirely and using a 2 x 6's sounds like a better idea. It's got beautiful fresh Viper paint and the doors are on it so I'll have to figure out something for strapping it down. The Alcan can have some pretty bad frost heaves so I really need to prepare it for a rough trip. I'll go slow for sure but there is always that unexpected pot hole or crater as we call them up here.

I wont be making the trip until May at the earliest...
 

CapnJohn

Amphi Guru & Former IAOC President
Thanks to both of you. Love this group! :)

I hadn't considered the flexing issues. It does sit up fairly high on the brackets I made as well so removing them entirely and using a 2 x 6's sounds like a better idea. It's got beautiful fresh Viper paint and the doors are on it so I'll have to figure out something for strapping it down. The Alcan can have some pretty bad frost heaves so I really need to prepare it for a rough trip. I'll go slow for sure but there is always that unexpected pot hole or crater as we call them up here.

I wont be making the trip until May at the earliest...

If your doors have the seals on the body and on the door installed, be sure they are closed tight and engage the water locks to minimize vibrations. I would suggest removing the doors and pack them seperately in the truck or wrapped and strapped to the floor of the hull for protection to allow you to strap the hull down securely. The time to remove the doors may save you hours of paint repairs later. Place some heavy duty rubber over an old towel over the knife edge along the door opening to protect your straps and finish from abrasion.
 

Akamphi

Member
But my doors close so well right now..... :( But your right John. I was thinging about that last night and think removing them is the way to go on such a long and rough trip.
If your doors have the seals on the body and on the door installed, be sure they are closed tight and engage the water locks to minimize vibrations. I would suggest removing the doors and pack them seperately in the truck or wrapped and strapped to the floor of the hull for protection to allow you to strap the hull down securely. The time to remove the doors may save you hours of paint repairs later. Place some heavy duty rubber over an old towel over the knife edge along the door opening to protect your straps and finish from abrasion.
 

Cap'n John

Member
Re: Stripped Amphicarbody weight

An old trick is to drill an 1/8" hole thru each door and thru the hinge plate. Then use the same bit in the hole to realign hinge to the door upon re assembly.
Sent from my BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Akamphi <>
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 02:06:51
To: <rma@amphicar.com>
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20678] Re: Stripped Amphicar
body weight

But my doors close so well right now..... <http://www.amphicar770.com/amphicarforum/images/smilies/frown.gif> But your right John. I was thinging about that last night and think removing them is the way to go on such a long and rough trip.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapnJohn <showthread.php?p=41215#post41215>
If your doors have the seals on the body and on the door installed, be sure they are closed tight and engage the water locks to minimize vibrations. I would suggest removing the doors and pack them seperately in the truck or wrapped and strapped to the floor of the hull for protection to allow you to strap the hull down securely. The time to remove the doors may save you hours of paint repairs later. Place some heavy duty rubber over an old towel over the knife edge along the door opening to protect your straps and finish from abrasion.
 

bkahler

Member
Re: Stripped Amphicarbody weight

Good idea, I'll have to remember it.

Brad



On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 9:41 PM, Cap'n John
<>wrote:


> An old trick is to drill an 1/8" hole thru each door and thru the hinge
> plate. Then use the same bit in the hole to realign hinge to the door upon
> re assembly.
> Sent from my BlackBerry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Akamphi <>
> Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 02:06:51
> To:
> Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20678] Re: Stripped Amphicar
> body weight
>
> But my doors close so well right now..... <
> http://www.amphicar770.com/amphicarf...ies/frown.gif><http://www.amphicar770.com/amphicarforum/images/smilies/frown.gif%3E>But your right John. I was thinging about that last night and think removing
> them is the way to go on such a long and rough trip.
>
> Quote:
>
> Originally Posted by CapnJohn
> If your doors have the seals on the body and on the door installed, be sure
> they are closed tight and engage the water locks to minimize vibrations. I
> would suggest removing the doors and pack them seperately in the truck or
> wrapped and strapped to the floor of the hull for protection to allow you to
> strap the hull down securely. The time to remove the doors may save you
> hours of paint repairs later. Place some heavy duty rubber over an old towel
> over the knife edge along the door opening to protect your straps and finish
> from abrasion.
>
>
>
 

bkahler

Member
Re: Stripped Amphicar body weight

Craig,

I just finished up a move where we moved from Arkansas to Kentucky. 24
moving trips to move cars, tools, equipment, etc.

There is a 10 mile stretch in Arkansas on I-40 that is so rough it
continually loosened and even popped my straps off of my vehicles. Even
taking that stretch at 50 mph (with semi's blowing by me) didn't help a
lot. I had to take extra precautions on strapping just because of this
stretch of road.

I can't even begin to imagine how bad the Alcan highway is going to be for
you. I don't envy you having to make a trip like this with a freshly
painted Amphicar.

Good luck!

Brad



On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 4:50 PM, Akamphi <>wrote:


> Thanks to both of you. Love this group!
>
> I hadn't considered the flexing issues. It does sit up fairly high on the
> brackets I made as well so removing them entirely and using a 2 x 6's sounds
> like a better idea. It's got beautiful fresh Viper paint and the doors are
> on it so I'll have to figure out something for strapping it down. The Alcan
> can have some pretty bad frost heaves so I really need to prepare it for a
> rough trip. I'll go slow for sure but there is always that unexpected pot
> hole or crater as we call them up here.
>
> I wont be making the trip until May at the earliest...
>
>
>
 

jwillia

Member
Re: Stripped Amphicar body weight

Hi Craig

This is Jeff from Alaska and Seattle. We spoke a few times a while back. I shipped my car out of Alaska 3 years ago, because it was much easier to restore here in the States. When I did I put it on a Barge, it cost a little over $1000. It was well worth it as it goes in a Van and is well protected. If you are interested this method. Northland Services in Achorage is the outfit I used. Are you moving out of Alaska ?


Take Care

Jeff Red 62






To: jeffreyd_7@hotmail.com
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20678] Re: Stripped Amphicar body weight
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 09:09:23 -0500
From:





Craig,

I just finished up a move where we moved from Arkansas to Kentucky. 24
moving trips to move cars, tools, equipment, etc.

There is a 10 mile stretch in Arkansas on I-40 that is so rough it
continually loosened and even popped my straps off of my vehicles. Even
taking that stretch at 50 mph (with semi's blowing by me) didn't help a
lot. I had to take extra precautions on strapping just because of this
stretch of road.

I can't even begin to imagine how bad the Alcan highway is going to be for
you. I don't envy you having to make a trip like this with a freshly
painted Amphicar.

Good luck!

Brad



On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 4:50 PM, Akamphi <>wrote:




Quote:




> Thanks to both of you. Love this group!
>
> I hadn't considered the flexing issues. It does sit up fairly high on the
> brackets I made as well so removing them entirely and using a 2 x 6's sounds
> like a better idea. It's got beautiful fresh Viper paint and the doors are
> on it so I'll have to figure out something for strapping it down. The Alcan
> can have some pretty bad frost heaves so I really need to prepare it for a
> rough trip. I'll go slow for sure but there is always that unexpected pot
> hole or crater as we call them up here.
>
> I wont be making the trip until May at the earliest...
>
>
>
 

Akamphi

Member
Re: Stripped Amphicar body weight

Hi Jeff,

Yea we moved last month. I still have an RV up here and some tools in the garage but have an offer pending on the house so may be moving that to storage soon. I fly back and forth between OR every month now. I'm on teh fence about getting it outside. First off it's a shell in fresh paint with no suspention. Most of the shipping out fits wont touch it without alot of disclamers. I have to drive the RV out anyway and plan to haul some of teh shop tools on a trailer so thats the way I'm leaning. But it is a rough trip and would be pretty slow going. At least teh RV has a rear cam so I can keep a close eye on it.
Hi Craig

This is Jeff from Alaska and Seattle. We spoke a few times a while back. I shipped my car out of Alaska 3 years ago, because it was much easier to restore here in the States. When I did I put it on a Barge, it cost a little over $1000. It was well worth it as it goes in a Van and is well protected. If you are interested this method. Northland Services in Achorage is the outfit I used. Are you moving out of Alaska ?


Take Care

Jeff Red 62
 

Akamphi

Member
Re: Stripped Amphicar body weight

Thats my biggest concern. Loosening straps. But I do have the option of actually bolting the car to the deck. The suspention is off the car and its sitting on brackets bolted to teh axle tube flanges that bolt to dolly wheels. My thought is to remoce the wheels and bolt it to the deck. But there is the flexing issue to consider. I might build a pallet to bolt it to and strap that down instesd.

Still got 3 or 4 months before teh trip so plenty of time to figure it out.quote=bkahler;41219]Craig,

I just finished up a move where we moved from Arkansas to Kentucky. 24
moving trips to move cars, tools, equipment, etc.

There is a 10 mile stretch in Arkansas on I-40 that is so rough it
continually loosened and even popped my straps off of my vehicles. Even
taking that stretch at 50 mph (with semi's blowing by me) didn't help a
lot. I had to take extra precautions on strapping just because of this
stretch of road.

I can't even begin to imagine how bad the Alcan highway is going to be for
you. I don't envy you having to make a trip like this with a freshly
painted Amphicar.

Good luck!

Brad



On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 4:50 PM, Akamphi <>wrote:[/quote]
 

bkahler

Member
Re: Stripped Amphicar body weight

Craig,

Just a thought. Your idea of a pallet makes a lot of sense. However you
might want to consider when strapping the pallet to the trailer you might
want to find some small used tires and set the pallet on top of the
tires. This would provide you with a "suspension" type ride for the
pallet. If you went this route you could bolt the amphi hull to the pallet
securely which means you wouldn't have to worry about straps ruining your
new paint job. You can use any number of required straps side to side and
front to back to hold the pallet on the trailer. From my my perspective the
biggest issue you're going to face is the roughness of the Alcan highway.
If you can provide a suspension for the pallet to ride on you should be home
free.

Hope this helps!

Brad



On Thu, Feb 4, 2010 at 12:47 PM, Akamphi <>wrote:


> Thats my biggest concern. Loosening straps. But I do have the option of
> actually bolting the car to the deck. The suspention is off the car and its
> sitting on brackets bolted to teh axle tube flanges that bolt to dolly
> wheels. My thought is to remoce the wheels and bolt it to the deck. But
> there is the flexing issue to consider. I might build a pallet to bolt it to
> and strap that down instesd.
>
> Still got 3 or 4 months before teh trip so plenty of time to figure it
> out.quote=bkahler;41219]Craig,
>
>
> I just finished up a move where we moved from Arkansas to Kentucky. 24
> moving trips to move cars, tools, equipment, etc.
>
> There is a 10 mile stretch in Arkansas on I-40 that is so rough it
> continually loosened and even popped my straps off of my vehicles. Even
> taking that stretch at 50 mph (with semi's blowing by me) didn't help a
> lot. I had to take extra precautions on strapping just because of this
> stretch of road.
>
> I can't even begin to imagine how bad the Alcan highway is going to be for
> you. I don't envy you having to make a trip like this with a freshly
> painted Amphicar.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Brad
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 4:50 PM, Akamphi <>wrote:
>
>
>
[/quote]
 

jfriese

Active Member
Hi Craig,

I rather like that barge idea since a sweet new paint job is sooo fragile. Barring that, I would take whatever time is necessary to bolt the suspension parts back on the cars and strap it down by the wheels. I certainly wouldn't put any straps on the painted surfaces. In my enclosed trailer I have over wheel straps on the front and strap the rear wheels through the wheel slots. Given the roughness of the trip you expect, and assuming you already have the wheels painted or powder coated, I would use over wheel straps on the rear too. This way the suspension takes care of all the bumps and the car should be just fine. An enclosed trailer is nice for long trips since I wouldn't want any kind of cover rubbing on the paint either.

Enjoy,

John Friese
67 White
67 Red
 

Akamphi

Member
Right now the only thing left in Alaska is the body. I don't have any tools up here of a place to work on it either or I'd reinstall the suspension. The car is shrink wrapped at the body shop and I was thinking about wrapping that in packing blankets as well. Its an open deck trailer but has provisions for front and side panels that will be higher then the car. I'd tarp over that with a ton of rope to prevent it from catching the wind.

The barge is appealing but I've heard bad things about autos in shipping containers coming loose in a storm and getting tossed around inside.
 

CapnJohn

Amphi Guru & Former IAOC President
Craig,
Bolt the hull to 4x4s that extend 2' beyond the hull width, bolt 2 or 3, 2x6s to the ends and middle of the 4x4s forming a frame then place a tire under ea corner. Use 10,000lb min ratchet straps to secure the wood frame to the deck. She would be suspended by the tires and securly attached to the frame much like a large pallet.

You dont wan't any covers touching the car. The wind flapping the cover will do far more damage to your paint than anything. Shring wrapped is perfect as it will not rub the paint.
 

Akamphi

Member
Its shrink wrapped now and I plan on wrapping in in packing blankets as well. The trailer also has a front and sides that are higher then the car. I like the tire pallet idea.
 

chasgould

New Member
I would get an old mattress (preferably temperpedic, but any kind
would do), and then lay the shell on that and use ratchet straps to
crank it down tight against the mattress.

On Feb 4, 2010, at 12:47 PM, Akamphi wrote:


> Thats my biggest concern. Loosening straps. But I do have the option
> of actually bolting the car to the deck. The suspention is off the
> car and its sitting on brackets bolted to teh axle tube flanges that
> bolt to dolly wheels. My thought is to remoce the wheels and bolt it
> to the deck. But there is the flexing issue to consider. I might
> build a pallet to bolt it to and strap that down instesd.
>
> Still got 3 or 4 months before teh trip so plenty of time to figure
> it out.quote=bkahler;41219]Craig,
>
> I just finished up a move where we moved from Arkansas to Kentucky. 24
> moving trips to move cars, tools, equipment, etc.
>
> There is a 10 mile stretch in Arkansas on I-40 that is so rough it
> continually loosened and even popped my straps off of my vehicles.
> Even
> taking that stretch at 50 mph (with semi's blowing by me) didn't
> help a
> lot. I had to take extra precautions on strapping just because of this
> stretch of road.
>
> I can't even begin to imagine how bad the Alcan highway is going to
> be for
> you. I don't envy you having to make a trip like this with a freshly
> painted Amphicar.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Brad
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 4:50 PM, Akamphi <>wrote:
>
>
[/quote]
 

Ed Price

Member
Craig:

As you are near Fairbanks, do you barge it down the Yukon or do you have to
get it to maybe Anchorage first?

Last time I shipped anything by barge in Alaska, the barge sank before it
got to the Bering Straits.


Ed Price
El Cajon, CA USA
WB6WSN
1961 Amphicar
1987 MB 420SEL






_____

From: Akamphi [mailto:]
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 12:33 PM
To: edprice@cox.net
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20678] Re: Stripped Amphicar
body weight


Right now the only thing left in Alaska is the body. I don't have any tools
up here of a place to work on it either or I'd reinstall the suspention. The
car is shrink wrapped at the body shop and I was thinking about wrapping
that in packing blankets as well. Its an open deck trailer but has
provisions for front and side panels that will be higher then the car. I'd
tarp over that with a ton of rope to prevent it from catching the wind.

The barge is appealing but I've heard bad things about autos in shipping
containers comming loose in a storm and getting tossed around inside.


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Craig in Alaska

2006 Jeep Rubicon, Solar yellow
1966 Amphicar, Now Viper Red
19XX Sexy Red Head, Loaded with every option I ever wanted!
 

Midwest Amphicar

Worlds Largest Amphicar Destination
Get that shrink wrap off as soon as you get back. If that paint is really fresh 30 days or so I would take off now. Wrap it the day you move it. Later Dave
 
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