Steering Box Brace

R

Robert

Guest
Just a reminder, the due date is Sept 23 on receiving your check if you want
a brace. I am in the process of redesigning it so no welding will be
required. It will be good!

I hope it will happen quickly, but it may take longer to build as we will
have to make a prototype first. It will be an improvement over the design
shown in the newsletter. Please, send any suggestions anyone may have so
that I can be assured of an extraordinary design.

I've received 8 checks so far; not many considering the severity of this
design flaw. The more I watch that box move side to side and feel the slop
caused by the poor mounting system (remember that this is under very little
load), I can only imagine the box reacting to bumps, etc in the road
surface. I think that Hans would have said that at least there is no chance
of failure while swimming!

Rob Vondracek
1003 Woodcrest Ct.
Valparaiso, IN
46383















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
J

John Friese

Guest
Hi Rob,
Could you post a photo of your latest brace design? Is it more
complicated than the brace that I use and have pictured there?

Thanks,
John Friese


--- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "Robert" <rjv@d...> wrote:
> I am close to the final version of the steering box brace! This one
is the
> ultimate. No welding is required. The enthusiasts who believe that
there is
> a need for this brace will love it.
>
> Rob Vondracek
> '64 red
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: amphicar-lovers@y...
> [mailto:amphicar-lovers@y...]
> Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 8:06 AM
> To: amphicar-lovers@y...
> Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Digest Number 789
>
>
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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> Archives:
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> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel)
at:
> amphicar770@y...
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
> There are 4 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. Re: Digest Number 788
> From: chasgould@a...
> 2. vacuum pump
> From: Dave Derer <dmd@e...>
> 3. The Mischievous Amphi
> From: "amphipoda" <Amphipoda@y...>
> 4. Re: vacuum pump
> From: "Cap'n John" <minnow@a...>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 08:40:36 EDT
> From: chasgould@a...
> Subject: Re: Digest Number 788
>
> WOW< what a great day! We had donated an "Amphi picnic on the
Charles River"
> to my daughter's new school fund raiser auction, and there were no
bids
> until
> late in the evening when one guy bid ten bucks. An hour later a few
others
> got involved, and the bidding soared up to $200.00, when it died
down to
> only
> two parties who bid to #00.00 before one dropped out. In the spirit
of
> peacekeeping (and fundraising), I offered to take both parties if
they would
> both pay the high bid amount, which they did. So, we raised $600.00
for a
> good cause, and the kids playground will be a bit better because of
Amphi's
> charm.
> I know that we are supposed to give rides and enlighten people for
free, but
> this was a good cause, and done in the spirit of giving.
> Anyway, I called Gary McNally and Bill, who have a beautiful green
Amphi,
> and
> suggested that we do both rides at the same time, so we could take
pictures
> of each other. He was happy to help out, and we set off for the
beautiful
> Charles River. Well, we spent four hours up and down the river and
everyone
> had a blast. The bidders got their money's worth, the school auction
did
> great, and we had a blast. A good time was had by all, including
everyone
> along the banks of the Charles. I am sure that one wedding party was
upset
> that we distracted all of the wedding party and photographers as we
sailed
> by! Lots of waves and splashes, but not much water intake. Ahhhh,
what a
> great day, what a great car....I mean boat!
> Chas
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 11:42:31 -0500
> From: Dave Derer <dmd@e...>
> Subject: vacuum pump
>
> Hey John how about an add on electric vacuum pump? That way things
will
> work while your car is stalled in the mile high city! Master Power
> Brakes 888 251 2353. Later Dave the Wave
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 16:49:20 -0000
> From: "amphipoda" <Amphipoda@y...>
> Subject: The Mischievous Amphi
>
> An Amphi who used to run quietly upon the
> boat launch ramp to the delight of everyone
> he met, and to then splash them without notice.
> His master suspended a bell about his neck so
> that the Amphi might give notice of his presence
> wherever he went. Thinking it a mark of distinction,
> the Amphi grew proud of his bell and went tinkling
> it all over the lakeside. One day an old fisherman
> said to him: "Why do you make such an exhibition
> of yourself? That bell that you carry is not, believe
> me, any order of merit, but on the contrary a mark
> of warning, a public notice to all men to avoid you
> as an ill mannered Amphi."
>
> Moral of the story... bell or no bell, if at Celina and
> you ride with Dave the Wave, anyone on the dock is
> fair game.
>
> Amphipoda
> '64 Turquoise
> San Diego, CA
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 19:26:33 -0000
> From: "Cap'n John" <minnow@a...>
> Subject: Re: vacuum pump
>
> --- In amphicar-lovers@y..., Dave Derer <dmd@e...> wrote:
> > Hey John how about an add on electric vacuum pump? That way things
> will
> > work while your car is stalled in the mile high city! Master Power
> > Brakes 888 251 2353. Later Dave the Wave
>
> Thanks Meester Dave!
>
> The pump they have is spendy, so I found a different one that should
> work for 1/2 that if there isn't at least 18" of vacuum available
> from the Amphi. They had some good info in their site that was very
> helpful.
>
> Now I need to get out the calculator to figure out correct geometry
> for the linkages, build it and swim!
>
> I have done some investigating on a power brake and dual master
> conversion (after Bilgy planted the seed) and if it works, I'll post
> the instructions on how to make the switch relatively cheaply
> (somewhere in the realm of ~$200, I think) and without the problem
of
> the front brakes "snatching" as he mentioned. A little something
else
> for the club members site to add a level of safety to our Amphis.
>
> John "DOH!" Bevins
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
R

Robert Vondracek

Guest
The Not So Big Trailer Company has designed and manufactures a custom
steering brace. To install, it requires no welding, looks original, and will
function in the event that the ears of the steering brace fail! I know that
this is virtually impossible with our brace fitted, but one should think
this way to be safest. Over 40 Amphicar owners are now driving safer cars.

I'll bet that you can't find one car (other than the Amphicar) that doesn't
have it's steering box mounted rigidly to the frame. Anyone that is driving
an Amphicar without an adequate steering brace is risking their own life
along with the lives of the passengers. By hitting the right pothole or
bump, a load can be transmitted to the the steering box that might cause the
ears to break and the result would be trouble! Just ask Rene of the Amphicar
club in Germany. They have a member that had a steering failure because of a
broken steering box attachment.

My feelings on the inadequacy of the original design on the Amphicar
steering have been brought to the attention of all the readers since late
2002. Nothing has changed in our original design, except the price has been
lowered to $58 plus $5 Shipping and Handling, made possible by a lower
priced supplier. Anyone that bought a brace at the old price will receive a
credit for the difference on any future purchases. We offer many other
Amphicar inventions and "light and small" Amphicar trailers.

Not So Big Trailer Company, LLC
Rob Vondracek
1003 Woodcrest Court
Valparaiso, IN 46383 www.notsobigtrailer.com 219-405-1241



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
A

Al Heath

Guest
What's wrong with this " 'bout right" approach?

Visit Home D. (or other such store) and get some flat steel stock, metric
bolts the next length up to account for the steel thickness, and a lock
nut, washers, can of spray paint... Using the approximate angle down to
the vicinity of the magneto valve or the attachment point you've picked ...
basically looking for a very short lever to the floor making an approximate
isoscelese right triangle with the steering box, roughly check the angle
and cut the new metal bar to the approximate length for now... it is
approximately a straight shot from steering box front to floor. .... kinda
mark some lines where the metal bar would lay against the steering box
front. Leave the bar a tad long to account for variations in how well you
do the step. Using the lines you marked and the steering box front cover
(or the thin metal spacer) as a guide, drill 3 or 4 or 5 holes (don't
forget the center hole for the horn wire...) in the steel (depending on
width of the steel you bought - 2 to 3.5 inches ... your choice) Now that
it is "rough'd in", lay it in place attached to the steering box to check
bolt hole alignment, mark the final cut length, bottom angle, perhaps a top
notch for the magneto valve, and center punch the hole position(s) for the
bottom bolt(s) now that the angle is locked in due to the alignment of the
bolt holes on the steering box, and any excess from the steering box area.
Take it back out, cut and drill, recheck fit,...when good, spray some black
paint on it and reassemble when dry. If you want to weld a new tab instead
of using the fuel magneto tab, do that using some scrap angle iron to the
floor (and damp rags/blanket packed around gas tank .... well ventilated
.... tied fuel line/magneto value up out of the way ... didn't disconnect
to avoid "fresh" fumes ...) , you can make the tab large enough for two
bolts. Total Cost .... maybe 10 bucks. Time ... couple hours depending
on the distance to the store. Tools ... a hack saw and a sharp drill bit.
(It is a bunch easier with a band saw to make the metal cuts, but what
better way to build up those arm muscles....) Real engineering design
behind this, none. "The 'bout right" method.

Al

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
W

WB6WSN

Guest
Re: Re: steering box brace

----- Original Message -----
From: Al Heath
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 9:30 AM
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: steering box brace








What's wrong with this " 'bout right" approach?

Visit Home D. (or other such store) and get some flat steel stock, metric
bolts the next length up to account for the steel thickness, and a lock
nut, washers, can of spray paint... Using the approximate angle down to
the vicinity of the magneto valve or the attachment point you've picked ...
basically looking for a very short lever to the floor making an approximate
isoscelese right triangle with the steering box, roughly check the angle
and cut the new metal bar to the approximate length for now... it is
approximately a straight shot from steering box front to floor. .... kinda
mark some lines where the metal bar would lay against the steering box
front. Leave the bar a tad long to account for variations in how well you
do the step. Using the lines you marked and the steering box front cover
(or the thin metal spacer) as a guide, drill 3 or 4 or 5 holes (don't
forget the center hole for the horn wire...) in the steel (depending on
width of the steel you bought - 2 to 3.5 inches ... your choice) Now that
it is "rough'd in", lay it in place attached to the steering box to check
bolt hole alignment, mark the final cut length, bottom angle, perhaps a top
notch for the magneto valve, and center punch the hole position(s) for the
bottom bolt(s) now that the angle is locked in due to the alignment of the
bolt holes on the steering box, and any excess from the steering box area.
Take it back out, cut and drill, recheck fit,...when good, spray some black
paint on it and reassemble when dry. If you want to weld a new tab instead
of using the fuel magneto tab, do that using some scrap angle iron to the
floor (and damp rags/blanket packed around gas tank .... well ventilated
.... tied fuel line/magneto value up out of the way ... didn't disconnect
to avoid "fresh" fumes ...) , you can make the tab large enough for two
bolts. Total Cost .... maybe 10 bucks. Time ... couple hours depending
on the distance to the store. Tools ... a hack saw and a sharp drill bit.
(It is a bunch easier with a band saw to make the metal cuts, but what
better way to build up those arm muscles....) Real engineering design
behind this, none. "The 'bout right" method.

Al



Nothing "wrong" with your brace idea, Al.

Really, every brace idea that has been presented here is "good enough." Every
design will have some advantages, and some disadvantages. I wasn't knocking
anybody's efforts here, just speculating on the design features of each. What's
most important is that you get your steering box braced; by whatever design
suits you best.

BTW Al. Remember the part about replacing the four bolts into the plate that
mounts to the front of the steering box? (That's the plate that has the center
hole for the horn wire.) As you face astern, toward the front of this plate, the
upper left bolt has a critical length. All eight bolts at the top of the
steering box look similar, but the top left bolt needs to be (IIRC) 2 mm shorter
than the others. If you use one of the long bolts in this hole, you will hit the
steering sector gear with the base of the bolt. So, if (due to your new bracket)
you get a 3/8" longer bolt, remember to put a couple of flat washers under the
bolt head to compensate the bolt to the exact length.

Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
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