Starter/Solenoid problem

[G_Zink_us@yahoo.com]

Hi all,
I need some advise on a "no start" problem. Over the last couple of
months, there have been a handfull of times when I would turn the key
and get a click(not quite a click but don't know how else to
describe) and I would move or tighten the starter cable at the
starter and I'd be off and running. I had no problems Saturday and it
started several times but yesterday I could not get it started. All I
get is that click. Battery is fully charged and I removed and re-
tightened the starter cable. All the solenoid wires appear to be on
and tight. I'm thinking that my blaming a loose connection at the
starter when this happened before may have been incorrect and it
might actually be the solenoid because now, with the key on, I press
the solenoid button, I get no sound at all. This seems odd because I
get the click when I turn the key.
I searched the archives and didn't see anything on the subject so I'm
seeking advice from all of you with more experience.
1) What's your best guess as to the cause- starter, solenoid, loose
connections, ignition switch?
2) On old Fords, I used to jump two wires on the solenoid to bypass
and start the car to prove the starter was o.k. Can anyone tell me
which two to jump on the Amphi?
3) If the solenoid is bad, does anyone have a part number and make
model of vehicle for an interchangeable one I could get at a local
parts store? Will any model solenoid work?
4) Same question for the starter. Anyone have a part number or a
later year make model? I'd order from Gordon's but I'd really like to
get it going in the next few days and with the weight of the thing,
the shipping would probably be more than the cost of starter.

Starterless in Michigan,

Greg Z
67 Amphi, white (MI "IMABOAT")

 

[Cap''n John]

> 1) What's your best guess as to the cause- starter, solenoid, loose
> connections, ignition switch?

If the connections are clean and tight (NOT the replacement type
clamps), it could be a flatspot in the starter, an "iffy" solenoid,
or the dreaded broken cable (within the insulation).

> 2) On old Fords, I used to jump two wires on the solenoid to bypass
> and start the car to prove the starter was o.k. Can anyone tell me
> which two to jump on the Amphi?

You should just be able to push the big button on top of the solenoid
to accomplish the same result.

John

 

[David Chapman]

Sounds like the solinoid is toast, the type with the button will be at least
20 years old, a modern replacement will work the same, they removed the
button when car theft started to be a problem (!) This solinoid is generic
and was used on just about every 4 cylinder British car throughout the
1960s. Hugh has them in stock but you should be able to get them locally,
same for the starter, just about any Triumph or Mini has the same parts. At
the same time change the power cables to the starter and from the battery as
well as the battery earth. It's easy and low cost - the originals can look
fine but corrode internally.

David Chapman

 

[Greg]

Re: Re: Starter/Solenoid problem

Thanks for hints, John. The broken cable seems like a
possibility since, in the past, I've started by moving
it. For clarification, the reason for "jumping around"
the solenoid is I'm thinking that would prove if the
solenoid itself is bad. When I push the black button,
nothing happens.

--- Cap'n John <minnow@amphicar.net> wrote:
> > 1) What's your best guess as to the cause-
> starter, solenoid, loose
> > connections, ignition switch?
>
> If the connections are clean and tight (NOT the
> replacement type
> clamps), it could be a flatspot in the starter, an
> "iffy" solenoid,
> or the dreaded broken cable (within the insulation).
>
> > 2) On old Fords, I used to jump two wires on the
> solenoid to bypass
> > and start the car to prove the starter was o.k.
> Can anyone tell me
> > which two to jump on the Amphi?
>
> You should just be able to push the big button on
> top of the solenoid
> to accomplish the same result.
>
> John
>
>

 

[Steve Behnke]

Greg,

Some years back I had a similar starting problem with my Amphi.
A lot of the symptoms were very similar. After pulling out the starter
and then solenoid and having them checked out it turned out to
be a bad ground at the body on the positive battery cable. I had
checked it already and it had looked fine but a little extra wire
brushing and all has been fine since.

Steve

 

[auburnamphi]

I am having an issue with starting the car. Have put in new battery, and a new solenoid. Solenoid clicks when the key is used but have nothing when I use the push button on the solenoid. Any ideas on what is wrong?

 

[rayhand]

Hi all,
I need some advise on a "no start" problem. Over the last couple of
months, there have been a handfull of times when I would turn the key
and get a click(not quite a click but don't know how else to
describe) and I would move or tighten the starter cable at the
starter and I'd be off and running. I had no problems Saturday and it
started several times but yesterday I could not get it started. All I
get is that click. Battery is fully charged and I removed and re-
tightened the starter cable. All the solenoid wires appear to be on
and tight. I'm thinking that my blaming a loose connection at the
starter when this happened before may have been incorrect and it
might actually be the solenoid because now, with the key on, I press
the solenoid button, I get no sound at all. This seems odd because I
get the click when I turn the key.
I searched the archives and didn't see anything on the subject so I'm
seeking advice from all of you with more experience.
1) What's your best guess as to the cause- starter, solenoid, loose
connections, ignition switch?
2) On old Fords, I used to jump two wires on the solenoid to bypass
and start the car to prove the starter was o.k. Can anyone tell me
which two to jump on the Amphi?
3) If the solenoid is bad, does anyone have a part number and make
model of vehicle for an interchangeable one I could get at a local
parts store? Will any model solenoid work?
4) Same question for the starter. Anyone have a part number or a
later year make model? I'd order from Gordon's but I'd really like to
get it going in the next few days and with the weight of the thing,
the shipping would probably be more than the cost of starter.

Starterless in Michigan,

Greg Z
67 Amphi, white (MI "IMABOAT")

Mind does the same thing occasionly. I rotate the bolt at the end of the starter. Works every time. Ray

 

[rayhand]

So............did it work!

 

[auburnamphi]

I have replaced the new solenoid, new voltage regulator, and new battery. Rotated the bolt on starter, reconnected the battery and stater turns over with ignition key off??

 

[rayhand]

I have replaced the new solenoid, new voltage regulator, and new battery. Rotated the bolt on starter, reconnected the battery and stater turns over with ignition key off??

Remember the car is positive ground. You may have pinched a wire which would cause a negative ground. You don't say if the starter engages the fly wheel. Have you bypassed the emergency start button? Does the new solenoid have the rubber push button on top? Hope this helps. Ray