shift linkage/clutch cable

Discussion in 'General Amphicar Discussion' started by Steve Behnke, Jul 17, 2001.

  1. Steve Behnke
    Online

    Steve Behnke Guest

    Hi all,

    I need some advice....

    I replaced the engine mounts on my '64 Amphi.
    It shifted well before but now I can't get it into
    reverse.... the water shift wouldn't shift well
    either.... I changed the adjustment for length on
    the clutch cable at the transmission and it helped
    the water shift but not the reverse problem.
    What is the ideal adjustment for the clutch cable?

    I obviously changed the height of the engine and
    tranny a bit with the new mounts because the old
    ones were shot.

    Can anyone please explain the finer points of this
    adjustment so I can continue on with getting her
    ready for Celina? It would be nice to be able to
    find reverse.

    Thanks in advance,
    Steve Behnke
    1964 Red
     
  2. Cap''n John
    Online

    Cap''n John Guest

    > What is the ideal adjustment for the clutch cable?

    Hey Steve! Hope this helps!

    Remember there is the entire Maintenance Manual in the Members Only
    section @ Amphicar.com

    Clutch adjustment
    Since the clutch is subject to wear, it is important at the
    specified ser?vicing times, to check and to correct the play. Play of
    the clutch pedal should be .75" (Fig. I a), play between release
    lever ring and clutch ring-.06". When adjusting the clutch, it is
    necessary to dismantle and remove the back seat and seat rest as well
    as the seat base (see 11/4)
    Fig. land 2). When adjusting the clutch play (Fig. 2) follow
    specifica?tions exactly as indicated, as the clutch is subjected to
    great wear and tear, when the clutch play is too low. If the clutch
    play is too great, it is possible that the clutch will not disengage.
    This puts excessive stresses on the gear Synchromesh
    If it is found that the clutch does not disengage even when the
    clutch play is correctly adjusted, the clutch must be dismantled and
    overhauled.



    Dismantling and reassembly of clutch
    Remove engine (described on 1/13) and place on a workbench
    Disassemble clutch housing securing bolts (Fig. 1 ), lift off clutch
    housing.
    Loosen securing bolts, holding the pressure plate to the flywheel
    plate evenly and crosswise, so as not to deform the assembly (Fig.2).
    Mark pressure plate and flywheel plate, to avoid any imbalance when
    reusing (Fig.2a).
    Remove clutch pressure plate assembly and driven plate (Fig 3) The
    arrows indicate both dowel pins.

    Checking of clutch
    After dismantling the pressure plate assembly, check the bushing in
    the crankshaft and the pin of the drive shaft for wear and tear. The
    maximum permissible play between the pin and the bushing guide is
    006". Replace bushing, if play is excessive
    At each dismantling of the clutch housing it must be checked for
    cracks as well for deformation, warping and unevenness of the joined
    surfaces If faulty, replace
    This inspection must be carried out with extreme care, as, in case
    of warping of the clutch housing, not only will the driven plate be
    subject to excessive stress, but also the drive shaft of the gear-box
    The bearing of the release fork for the clutch in the gearbox, as
    well as the springs and the clutch ring with the form springs must be
    checked If the parts are worn out, they must be replaced

    Clutch automat
    To replace the release lever plate bolt the clutch to a clutch-
    tensioning device and tighten the release lever plate with the center
    pinion. The retaining release lever springs are removed from their
    support on the release lever plate and the center pinion of the
    tensioning device is loosened
    Note If no clutch tensioning device is available, use a post drill
    by pressing the mandrel of the drill against the release lever plate
    and thus being able easily to lift the retaining release lever
    springs (Fig 4)
    It is not recommended to dismantle a clutch pressure plate assembly
    if no clutch tensioning device is available (for example, if the
    pressure assembly plate is worn out, or the release lever is warn
    out, or in cases of reduced pressure of the springs due to
    overheating).
    In such cases it is recommended to replace the clutch.

    Checking of driven plate
    Check clutch facings for wear If worn facings, oily facings or
    scarring is found, the facing must be replaced. When the facings are
    riveted on, the driven plate must not be deformed. The rivets must be
    headed correctly, for they must not, under any circumstances,
    protrude from the facings Driven plate with damaged torsion springs,
    or their mount?ings, must be replaced Maximum permissible side play is
    12". Check the vertical play of the hub on the splines (04") and the
    backlash .16".
    If the driven plates do not glide freely on the splined shaft, the
    fault must be remedied, for this could cause difficulty when
    disengaging the clutch



    Assembly
    When reassembling the clutch, act in reverse order than during
    dismantling. Pay special attention to the following
    When fitting the driven plate and the pressure plate, a guiding tool
    is absolutely required in order to center the clutch exactly
    Otherwise difficulties may arise when fitting the engine into the
    gearbox, as the drive shaft of the gearbox will not line up with the
    spline of the driven plate and into the guide bush of the crankshaft
    (Fig 1)
    Pay attention to the marking of the flywheel and of the pressure
    plate (to be done when dismantling), so that it can be remounted in
    its original position.
    Tighten the securing bolts of the clutch pressure plate assembly
    evenly and alternately.
    Fig 2 shows the release assembly in the gearbox
     
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