rust

[Dave Derer]

I finally got around to my own really rusty car. I hate rust! I have
been putting parts aside for a couple of years. I now have a 1300 with
dual carbs, big exhaust and about double the horse power of original
engine. The more I sand blast the less car I have! I stripped my
California car what a night and day difference. It takes 10 times the
energy to strip a rusty car as it does a rust free one. Lord willing
next year we are off to Stillwater Minnesota. They started thier own
club with 17 cars so far! I have talked with most of them over the years
and really looking forward to meeting all of them. Later Dave the Wave

 

[PVCJ PVCJ]

I know what you mean, When i had my car sandblasted there was nothing left?
I ended up replacing the whole floor and putting on new quarters,Not to
mention some of the inside. I think this car should have been a parts car"
But i keep going and restoring GOOD LUCK WITH YOURS IS GOING TO BE A 67
AMPHI SOMEDAY






>From: Dave Derer <dmd@essex1.com>
>Reply-To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
>To: "amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com" <amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Rust
>Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 07:30:02 -0500
>
> I finally got around to my own really rusty car. I hate rust! I have
>been putting parts aside for a couple of years. I now have a 1300 with
>dual carbs, big exhaust and about double the horse power of original
>engine. The more I sand blast the less car I have! I stripped my
>California car what a night and day difference. It takes 10 times the
>energy to strip a rusty car as it does a rust free one. Lord willing
>next year we are off to Stillwater Minnesota. They started thier own
>club with 17 cars so far! I have talked with most of them over the years
>and really looking forward to meeting all of them. Later Dave the Wave
>


_________________________________________________________________
Unlimited Internet access for only $21.95/month.? Try MSN!
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp

 

[rogtwo@aol.com]

The critical humidity level is 45% to 50% relative humidity. Below this
level, steel will not rust (assuming you don't have another issue like battery
acid on it).

Roger St. John
White '63
Seattle

In a message dated 10/20/03 8:29:07 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rjv@drakebuilders.com writes:

> Please educate me on the critical humidity level that must be obtained so
> that steel does not rust. I know that this was recently discussed on the
> digest.
>
> Not So Big Trailer Company
> Rob Vondracek
> '64 red
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[Robert Vondracek]

Please educate me on the critical humidity level that must be obtained so
that steel does not rust. I know that this was recently discussed on the
digest.

Not So Big Trailer Company
Rob Vondracek
'64 red

 

[Gord Souter]

I JUST GOT THE BIGGEST SURPRISE OF ALL.
If you have the 2004 Celina photo. I am working on Ron's car
It is the one with the fake mermaid on the hood. the red car!!
It looked really good.but was taking on water so he wanted it redone.
well when I got into it I found very sloppy 1970 style body work in the rear
so I got query
and to the car to Toronto and had it Acid dipped..
I got the car back yesterday and after the bondo was removed the is not a
panel in it that is not rusted threw. I took 30 picks of it last night and
can sent if you are interested off line.
Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,(www.amphicar.ca) (info@amphicar.ca)email
ORILLIA ONT.
L3V 6H4

MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820

I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
over 700 different parts for sale.
Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!


---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

 

[watercar64]

I had to pull my engine ,because a spring in my carbon clutch broke,
so I ordered a high performance cluth kit ,from John Friese, the
problen is in the bildge , it is starting to rust a bit. what is a
good rust paint , after i clean it ,to paint over and seal.

 

[Mike Israel]

Rust on an Amphicar? Never heard of such a thing.
;-)

More important than the paint is to get the area
really clean before you apply anything. The typical
bilge area will usually require lots of degreaser and
elbow grease.

Once cleaned up a good quality spray paint will work
just fine. Some folks like to use things like POR-15.
POR-15 is certainly durable but if the area is not
completely free of oily residue it will lift and may
actually trap water underneath.

I would use a good spray paint and then maybe a
protectant that is durable yet easy to remove. Waxoil
comes to mind as does Eastwood's Heavy Duty Anti-Rust

<a href="http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=11183&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=375&iProductID=11183">http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=11183&itemType=\
PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=375&iProductID=11183</a>

Mike I.

--- watercar64 <ross.donaldf@comcast.net> wrote:

> I had to pull my engine ,because a spring in my
> carbon clutch broke,
> so I ordered a high performance cluth kit ,from John
> Friese, the
> problen is in the bildge , it is starting to rust a
> bit. what is a
> good rust paint , after i clean it ,to paint over
> and seal.
>
>
>

 

[PVCJ PVCJ]

Hi all:: when i did the motor area in my car i used por-15 for the whole
thing, but when you go to paint it you have to scroff it up so the paint
will stick.

>From: Mike Israel <amphicar770@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
>To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [amphicar-lovers] Rust
>Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 08:35:38 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Rust on an Amphicar? Never heard of such a thing.
>;-)
>
>More important than the paint is to get the area
>really clean before you apply anything. The typical
>bilge area will usually require lots of degreaser and
>elbow grease.
>
>Once cleaned up a good quality spray paint will work
>just fine. Some folks like to use things like POR-15.
> POR-15 is certainly durable but if the area is not
>completely free of oily residue it will lift and may
>actually trap water underneath.
>
>I would use a good spray paint and then maybe a
>protectant that is durable yet easy to remove. Waxoil
>comes to mind as does Eastwood's Heavy Duty Anti-Rust
>
><a href="http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=11183&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=375&iProductID=11183">http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=11183&itemType\
=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=375&iProductID=11183</a>
>
>Mike I.
>
>--- watercar64 <ross.donaldf@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > I had to pull my engine ,because a spring in my
> > carbon clutch broke,
> > so I ordered a high performance cluth kit ,from John
> > Friese, the
> > problen is in the bildge , it is starting to rust a
> > bit. what is a
> > good rust paint , after i clean it ,to paint over
> > and seal.
> >
> >
> >
>

 

[John Friese]

Hello,

When I was restoring my cars (3 years ago), one of the best tips that
I received was from Billy Syx, regarding interior coatings. He, and
I, use an industrial coating that I have found under two brands. It
is a high solids, two part, epoxy mastic coating that is designed for
continuous immersion under gas and oil. It works as a primer coat, a
mid coat or a top coat and is not sensitive to UV radiation. It is
rather thick but runs very well, so it fills those nasty pin holes.
It can be custom colored to any color you want but it just so happens
that two of the stock colors are perfect for the red and white cars
interiors. The minimum size it comes in is what they call 1 gallon,
but it is actually two gallons since it is a 50/50 mix with the
activator. This two gallon quantity is just about exactly what you
want for a complete Amphicar interior. (I do the front trunk floor
up to the cross brace under the spare tire and use a highly flattened
marine paint for the visible portions of the trunk area since regular
paints lay down flatter.)

These paints are actually under the heading of industrial coatings
and the two brands are:

Dupont Corlar 25P

Neo Mastic 811 (from Wasser High Tech Coatings)

Dupont has a color called "Clay Tan" which is perfect for white car
interiors and Neo has a color they call "Christmas Red" which is
right for the red cars. It's possible both companies use the same
color names but those are what I found with when I did my cars.

If you want to thin the paints, Dupont has RT 001P thinner. Normally
I use it without thinning.

These paints are probably not available from your local paint store
since they call themselves "industrial coatings" but I was able to
order it in from a paint shop that supplies paints to the local body
shops. It's worth the hassle to get it. It works that well.

John Friese

67 White
67 Red

P.S. The Clay Tan color is what you see in the background of the 1296
engine photos in the photos section.




--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "watercar64"
<ross.donaldf@c...> wrote:
> I had to pull my engine ,because a spring in my carbon clutch broke,
> so I ordered a high performance cluth kit ,from John Friese, the
> problen is in the bildge , it is starting to rust a bit. what is a
> good rust paint , after i clean it ,to paint over and seal.

 

[Gord Souter]

If you are real carefull. cable lines like E brakes can be put into a
container of Muratic acid for a few days to a week.all rust will be
removed. it will not atack the ruber or plastic.
after this is done they must be washed off in water and totally blown dry ,
then greese the $%^^% out of them.
I do this to many cables and my 53 hudson back 10 years ago.. it is still
working fine!

Another trick is bleach...get the strong industial type and put yellowed
prop in it over night,,, wow there white again! you must remove all greese
first thou.

Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,
ORILLIA ONT.
L3V 6H4

MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820

I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
over 700 different parts for sale.
Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!


---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

 

[Gord Souter]

If you are real carefull. cable lines like E brakes can be put into a
container of Muratic acid for a few days to a week.all rust will be
removed. it will not atack the ruber or plastic.
after this is done they must be washed off in water and totally blown dry ,
then greese the $%^^% out of them.
I do this to many cables and my 53 hudson back 10 years ago.. it is still
working fine!

Another trick is bleach...get the strong industial type and put yellowed
prop in it over night,,, wow there white again! you must remove all greese
first thou.

Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,
ORILLIA ONT.
L3V 6H4

MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820

I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
over 700 different parts for sale.
Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!


---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]