Rust conversion

F

F M

Guest
I have come across a product that I've used on certain projects and it has
worked fine for me so I thought I would share it with the masses. It's called "
Conquest" and it's made by Chemsearch. It is a rust convertor and "chemically
converts existing rust to a corrision resistant black protective barrier".
www.chemsearch.com then do a search for "conquest"

I would like to hear others opinions on this product and if they know of similar
products.

Thanks FM

65 Red " Ronquil" (look it up)


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F

F M

Guest
One other product to look into is called " Rebound" it's a reberized coating.

Any thoughts.

F M <injuneer2003@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have come across a product that I've used on certain projects and it has
worked fine for me so I thought I would share it with the masses. It's called "
Conquest" and it's made by Chemsearch. It is a rust convertor and "chemically
converts existing rust to a corrision resistant black protective barrier".
www.chemsearch.com then do a search for "conquest"

I would like to hear others opinions on this product and if they know of similar
products.

Thanks FM

65 Red " Ronquil" (look it up)


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W

WB6WSN

Guest
----- Original Message -----
From: F M
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 2:07 PM
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Rust conversion


I have come across a product that I've used on certain projects and it has
worked fine for me so I thought I would share it with the masses. It's called "
Conquest" and it's made by Chemsearch. It is a rust convertor and "chemically
converts existing rust to a corrision resistant black protective barrier".
www.chemsearch.com then do a search for "conquest"

I would like to hear others opinions on this product and if they know of
similar products.

Thanks FM

65 Red " Ronquil" (look it up)


I bought a gallon of "Evaporust", touted to do the same process, from a gunsmith
supply store. Evaporust is a bit thicker than water, and has a strong citrus
smell. The manufacturer shows interesting pixs of very rusty bolts returned to
usable condition; even the threads. The product is well-liked for cleaning
antique gun parts. About $30 for a gallon. The manufacturer says Evaporust will
chemically remove rust and then leave a phosphorus protective layer on the
cleaned part. It is described as chemically removing only rust (iron oxide) and
not iron itself, so it stops "removing" when it gets through the rust and meets
the base iron (or steel).

I have tried it, and it does work. But you have to be patient; you have to soak
the part for hours & hours. I would use it for precision stuff only. I found a
German 10mm open-end wrench under my engine, and it was very rusted. I put it in
a plastic Dixie cup and filled it with the Evaporust. The next day, I turned the
wrench around and did the other end. After I pulled the wrench out, the
Evaporust was only slightly brown, but I didn't save it. The wrench was
completely rust-free, although it also was a hammertone grey color. I set the
wrench on a shelf, and so far, after over 3 months, no new rust has formed.

I don't have that much patience, and I have been washing some very badly rusted
parts in muriatic acid (full strength out of the bottle). Muriatic acid is
actually hydrochloric acid. I would have preferred phosphoric acid, but it was
too much hassle to try to buy. Besides, the muriatic acid only costs about $4
per gallon, so it's a lot more cost effective than Evaporust.

Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
N

nelson625@aol.com

Guest
In my experience, both Phosphoric Acid and Muriatic acid work well, though
differently. For 30 years, I have bought a product called "OSPHO" which is a
solution of Phosphoric acid. I debride (wire brush, or scrape heavy rust off)
then using a spray bottle, apply Phosphoric acid liberally. It is relatively
safe
to handle, much like Muriactic acid. It is definitely more expensive than
muriatic acid, but does a different sort of job. I have bought it by the gallon,
and a gallon will last me nowadays several years, though once upon a time I
had a steel boat (significantly larger than an amphicar) and I used more.
Spraying the Ospho on liberally, it is then allowed to set and dry which will
probably take 24 hours or possibly longer if it is not exposed to a lot of
ventilation to allow it to act on the rust and chemically convert it. A chalky
white
residue will end up on the previously rusted parts, and as the distributor of
the product will say in print, it converts the Iron Oxide (which is the rust) to
Iron Phosphate. I would then recommend brushing off the white powdery residue
and proceed to paint it with a good quality material which will adhere
directly to the rust free metal. If it is not coated with a suitable paint or
epoxy
primer, etc., it will begin the re-rusting process again if subjected to
moisture after a period of time.
The other alternative, as Ed suggested, is to immerse the item in
Muriatic acid for a few minutes - probably 10 -20, after having debrided it of
consequential rust as with the Ospho treatment above. Once the rust has
literally
been disolved off, the parts should be washed thoroughly, ideally in a weak
solution of baking powder to neutralize the acid, then immediately blown
completely dry, as rusting will try to start immediately. This is fresh rust
free metal
and should be primed or painted right away.
On my rear quarter panels 3-1/2 years ago, I ground away the infected
areas which were not huge, but perhaps 1 x 6 inches on right and left. I then
applied the Ospho, waited a day or two, wire brushed and scraped as completely
as
possible, then filled with Polyurethane foam in place foam and a competent
body man completed the job and painted the quarters. I expected to have 5-10
years of peace. Not so. Don't bother with this approach. I conclude that the
Polyurethane, though sticky as the devil initially, does not tightly adhere to
the
metal and moisture invades and now I'm set to repair both quarters again.
They are not bad - just way too unsightly for my taste and it will only
progress.
One of the members suggested putting in an access port to spray in heavy
undercoating to adhere to the "de-rusted" metal inside these lower quarters and
this may be a good idea. Anyway, as one can guess, I am disgusted after doing
what I thought to be a good job that the corrosion bubbles have now reappeared.
This is a great subject for opinions, past experiences and suggestions.
Vic "Splash" Nelson near Daytona with the Aqua 67 Split Personality


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
N

nelson625@aol.com

Guest
I just remembered something that an antique car friend showed me several
years ago. I have not personally tried it, but based on what he showed me, it
sounds like it might be worth looking into. He showed me some areas that had had
serious surface rust on a car body that was sitting outside. He had wire
brushed them, if there was any actual flaking rust and then brushed on straight
Penetrol (a product intended solely, I believe, as an additive for oil based
paints to largely eliminate brush marks.) He said that he had done that
approximately a year previously and it had set outside since and still looked
the same as
the day he had coated it with the Penetrol. I do remember that the surface
had a relatively hard glassy feeling, but there had been zero progress of any
rusting and the surface was completely protected. I've always intended to try
this out, but have not. Has anyone else ever heard of this or tried it or have
any opinions on the material and this utilization of it?
Vic "Splash" Nelson near Daytona


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
B

Bill Connelly

Guest
I just remembered something that an antique car friend showed me several
years ago. I have not personally tried it, but based on what he showed me,
it
sounds like it might be worth looking into. He showed me some areas that had
had
serious surface rust on a car body that was sitting outside. He had wire
brushed them, if there was any actual flaking rust and then brushed on
straight
Penetrol (a product intended solely, I believe, as an additive for oil based
paints to largely eliminate brush marks.) He said that he had done that
approximately a year previously and it had set outside since and still
looked the same as
the day he had coated it with the Penetrol. I do remember that the surface
had a relatively hard glassy feeling, but there had been zero progress of
any
rusting and the surface was completely protected. I've always intended to
try
this out, but have not. Has anyone else ever heard of this or tried it or
have
any opinions on the material and this utilization of it?
Vic "Splash" Nelson near Daytona

===============================

For the record, you'll find the manufacturer's writeup on Penetrol along
with a "Find Stores" service at http://www.floodco.com/Products/penetrol.cfm
. There is a Material Safety Data Sheet for the stuff at
http://www.floodco.com/pdf/ca_Penetrol.pdf , and our Australian webtoed
motoring buddies (Hey Roland! Are you listening down there fish lapdancing
guy?) can even get a free sample at http://letsdoit.com.au/?e=1&p=penetrol .

Lots of other Google hits out there to learn more...

~Bilgey
 
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