Rough running

chapron67

Member
I have a completely restored '65 with just 900 on it since body-restoration. The car has ran flawlessly except for a few issues:

- front end is SUPER tight (ie. basically zero suspension travel). I thought this might have 'broken in' after close to a 1000 miles but it's still very unforgiving. I've been told that's what they're all like. But I recently read something about people putting 'bushings' in incorrectly that causes very little suspension travel. Thoughts on how to check this?

- when it's hot out it's a BEAR to get started because, I assume, vapor-lock. Tried a ton of things (insulate the gas line, clothes pegs) but nothing works. I guess I have to install an electric fuel pump?

- Recently the engine has been 'missing' but once it's been driven for 20 minutes it runs smooth even though it seems to have lost power (won't go as fast). I can idle the car in the garage till the gauge gets to the middle and drive it but it still 'misses' but 20 minutes out on the road it all smooths out. Thoughts? Do I need to 're-time' the engine, perhaps re-set the valves as it's been close to a 1,000 miles?

Thanks!

Greg, Virginia
 

Ed Price

Member
Suspension & Hard Starting

Greg:

Certainly the front suspension was meant to extend and retract. When the
Amphi is setting flat on the ground, the shock rod should be about 2/3 of
the way into the shock body. Now jack the Amphi hull next to the wheel. You
should have to jack over six inches until the wheel lifts off the ground.
Now look at the shock rod; it should be way out of the shock body.

If you are not seeing full extension and reasonable ride height, then the
suspension can be stuck two ways.

First, the shock may be defective, with the rod captured in the shock body.
Rust and corrosion will do that. Remove either the top or bottom shock
mounting bolt (while the body is mostly jacked up; it may help removing the
bolt, and you also don't want the swing arm to drop far when you do remove
the bolt).

Now, with the bolt out, will the wheel move up and down as the swing arm
rotates? If yes, then the shock is the problem. If the wheel just hangs
there, then the swing arm is not rotating in the body socket. Causes can be
bad galling of the bronze sleeve bearings in the socket or improper assembly
of the shaft that goes into the socket. With only the wrong order of
assembly, you can get the swing arm to jam against the body socket,
effectively seizing the swing arm.

I assume you didn't do the restoration yourself, so what does the restorer
say about this suspension travel problem?

And now about the starting. I'm assuming you have the stock manifold and
carburetor. The biggest problem is the design of the engine manifold. Notice
I didn't say manifolds, as in intake and exhaust. In Triumph's infinite
wisdom, they made a single casting do double duty, an intake and exhaust
manifold all in one. This very efficiently transfers exhaust heat to the
intake portion of the manifold. And the Solex carb is sitting right there
atop the manifold. You get conductive heat transfer to the base of the carb,
and you get radiant heat transfer from the entire top of the manifold to the
carb body. In case that didn't cause enough problems, the fuel line wraps
around nearly the entire valve cover very near the block.

Triumph noted the problem with fuel boiling out of the carb bowl and down
into the intake portion of the manifold. They fixed that by drilling a hole
into the lower portion of the intake manifold, and attaching a small copper
tube, and letting the hot gasoline dribble out onto the ground.

Right about now, you probably see a problem. Yep, in an Amphi, that tube
will dribble into the bilge, which is not a good place to dump excess
gasoline. IWK "fixed" that by making the tube into a long "U" shape, the
assumption being that the tube was long enough to contain whatever gas
boiled out of the carb. (If you don't have that tube on your Amphi manifold,
then you might wonder where your dribbled gas goes to! <g>)

A better fix is to install a very thick thermal insulator between the carb
and the manifold. Further fixes are to fabricate and install a sheet metal
heat shield that shades the carb from the radiant engine and manifold heat.
You might also want to route the fuel line along the body in front of the
engine, but this is a bit of a big job for only a small help. Also, you can
wrap insulation along the fuel line.

Do your plugs show signs of fouling? You might also want to check your hot
cylinder compression, just for other clues. If you didn't restore the engine
when you did the body, then you could have issues with a bad fuel pump,
partially obstructed fuel line, vacuum advance, bad coil or a bad
distributor. I can't imagine a body restoration that didn't include all the
typical engine external servicing, but I suppose it could happen. Start
working your way through replacing things (if they aren't new, then they are
due for replacement now). Checking the timing is a good idea too. As for the
valves, that's a bit bigger job, and I would try to eliminate other things
first.


Ed Price
IAOC Membership Registrar
El Cajon, CA USA
WB6WSN
1961 Amphicar 770
1987 MB 420SEL





_____

From: chapron67 [mailto:]
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:42 AM
To: edprice@cox.net
Subject: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20822] Rough running


I have a completely restored '65 with just 900 on it since body-restoration.
The car has ran flawlessly except for a few issues:

- front end is SUPER tight (ie. basically zero suspension travel). I thought
this might have 'broken in' after close to a 1000 miles but it's still very
unforgiving. I've been told that's what they're all like. But I recently
read something about people putting 'bushings' in incorrectly that causes
very little suspension travel. Thoughts on how to check this?

- when it's hot out it's a BEAR to get started because, I assume,
vapor-lock. Tried a ton of things (insulate the gas line, clothes pegs) but
nothing works. I guess I have to install an electric fuel pump?

- Recently the engine has been 'missing' but once it's been driven for 20
minutes it runs smooth even though it seems to have lost power (won't go as
fast). I can idle the car in the garage till the gauge gets to the middle
and drive it but it still 'misses' but 20 minutes out on the road it all
smooths out. Thoughts? Do I need to 're-time' the engine, perhaps re-set the
valves as it's been close to a 1,000 miles?

Thanks!

Greg, Virginia
 

SNOWBIRD

Amphicar Expert
With wheels off undo the front Shocks,,The swing arm should fall down with gravity.. if not it is too tight.
When hot most amphicars seem to flood quite easyily,,,90 here today,, just parked my blue in garage,, after HWY run and no cool down it boils even with insualted lines.Carb is shelded and muffler wrapped to.
Motor miss,,,#1` check engine compresion. if 1 is low check vavle settings. still low,
then put some oil in cyl. recheck. if high, you have a ring problem, if low its in the valves.
Replace the rotor with a Known good one..
replace the coil with a known good one..
Did all this on 495 Taughton last year for John ,
finally got him going.. missed lunch...
GORD S.
 

dougn200

New Member
Hi Greg
It sounds like you stole my car :cool: when you get it fixed let me know

Doug Parsons
937-609-1591
1536 East Fourth St
Dayton, Ohio 45403

Dougparsons@ameritech.net

On Jul 5, 2010, at 12:42 PM, chapron67 <> wrote:


> I have a completely restored '65 with just 900 on it since body-restoration. The car has ran flawlessly except for a few issues:
>
> - front end is SUPER tight (ie. basically zero suspension travel). I thought this might have 'broken in' after close to a 1000 miles but it's still very unforgiving. I've been told that's what they're all like. But I recently read something about people putting 'bushings' in incorrectly that causes very little suspension travel. Thoughts on how to check this?
>
> - when it's hot out it's a BEAR to get started because, I assume, vapor-lock. Tried a ton of things (insulate the gas line, clothes pegs) but nothing works. I guess I have to install an electric fuel pump?
>
> - Recently the engine has been 'missing' but once it's been driven for 20 minutes it runs smooth even though it seems to have lost power (won't go as fast). I can idle the car in the garage till the gauge gets to the middle and drive it but it still 'misses' but 20 minutes out on the road it all smooths out. Thoughts? Do I need to 're-time' the engine, perhaps re-set the valves as it's been close to a 1,000 miles?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Greg, Virginia
>
>
 
Similar threads






Top