Rotor Issues Beware!

[rlgreen_55]

A few years ago Dave the Wave commented on his problems regarding the
rotor and I would like to reemphasize this mind boggling potential
problem.

Last week while out on a 31mile lake here in PA and with amphi
running great as usual it died all of a sudden. Catching a tow to
shore (keep tow line under seat) I started to troubleshoot the
problem. I keep my amphi in good running order so it was perplexing
to say the least. It was easy to figure out that no spark was
apparent so I put on my spare cap, wires and coil to no avail.

Relaxing and having a beer to help the thinking process I decided
that it must be in the electronic ignition as I had voltage to the
Pertronic's unit. While getting ready to convert amphi back to points
I popped a new rotor on and the engine fired right up. The old rotor
that fizzled was not that old and under a magnifying glass it showed
no signs of cracks, wear, etc. I wanted to put back on and give it
another try however it took flight from my hand (I dropped it) and
buried itself in the bilge under the engine.

I now carry a spare in the glove box.

Ron Green

 

[David Chapman]

Ron,

I think I've mentioned it before but it is so important it is worth saying
again.

These have been a real problem in recent years. The ones I here of that fail
most are Lucas branded and boxed and were made within the last 10 years.

There is a design that is slightly bigger with a counterbalance on the back.
These seem to last forever but very difficult to find as they haven't been
made since the 1970s.

Not just an Amphicar issue, same part is used in many other British cars.
The problem is they don't look burnt. The black plastic appears to become
conductive and the spark goes to earth via the distributor shaft.

Bill Davies one of the best Triumph parts suppliers in the UK said this:

"Reliability has been a problem with recently available rotor arms intended
for Lucas 4 & 6 cylinder distributors, particularly when used with
electronic ignition or other uprated ignition components. We now stock a
high quality replacement rotor arm for the popular Lucas distributors used
form the 1950s to 1974"

He sells them on his website www.rarebits4classics.co.uk

David C

 

[Larry & Nancy Solheim]

<font face="arial">I can confirm your point, Ron. </font> <font face="arial"></font> <font face="arial">My problem only appeared when the engine had warmed and manifested itself as a 2 (versus 4) cylinder motor, as two plugs would drop out. Althought I purchased plugs, wires, cap and rotor, simply changing the rotor has apparently solved the problem after several hours of driving/swimming. The rotor in question showed VERY minor wearwith some corresponding possible contact wear on the distributor contacts. Perhaps our aging motors and some minor distributor "wobble" contributes to the issue.</font> <font face="arial"></font> <font face="arial">Keep a spare rotor on-hand!</font> <font face="arial"></font> <font face="arial">--Larry</font>

rlgreen_55 <rgreen@reynoldsconstruction.com> wrote: <blockquote class="replbq" style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">A few years ago Dave the Wave commented on his problems regarding the
rotor and I would like to reemphasize this mind boggling potential
problem.

Last week while out on a 31mile lake here in PA and with amphi
running great as usual it died all of a sudden. Catching a tow to
shore (keep tow line under seat) I started to troubleshoot the
problem. I keep my amphi in good running order so it was perplexing
to say the least. It was easy to figure out that no spark was
apparent so I put on my spare cap, wires and coil to no avail.

Relaxing and having a beer to help the thinking process I decided
that it must be in the electronic ignition as I had voltage to the
Pertronic's unit. While getting ready to convert amphi back to points
I popped a new rotor on and the engine fired right up. The old rotor
that fizzled was not that old and under a
magnifying glass it showed
no signs of cracks, wear, etc. I wanted to put back on and give it
another try however it took flight from my hand (I dropped it) and
buried itself in the bilge under the engine.

I now carry a spare in the glove box.

Ron Green




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[laserfixr@aol.com]

<table id="role_body" style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: Comic Sans MS" bottomMargin="7" leftMargin="7" topMargin="7" rightMargin="7"><font id="role_document" face="Comic Sans MS" color="#000000" size="3">
As Amphi owners which rotor do we purchase, the 101 or 104? I have had the same exact problem down here in Florida. Amphi died in the middle of the lake and had to be towed ashore and flatbed trucked home.

<font lang="0" face="Comic Sans MS" size="3" FAMILY="SCRIPT" PTSIZE="12">


<font lang="0" face="Comic Sans MS" size="3" FAMILY="SCRIPT" PTSIZE="12">Best Regards,

Steve Sell
West Palm Beach, Florida
'66 Red/White</font></font></font>


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[jo jo]

David, Thanks for the link. I was having a little trouble getting to it. So,if anyone out there was like me try this one. http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/Frameset.htm Joe

David Chapman <david@manbus.com> wrote: <blockquote class="replbq" style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"> <div id="ygrp-text"> Ron,

I think I've mentioned it before but it is so important it is worth saying
again.

These have been a real problem in recent years. The ones I here of
that fail
most are Lucas branded and boxed and were made within the last 10 years.

There is a design that is slightly bigger with a counterbalance on the back.
These seem to last forever but very difficult to find as they haven't been
made since the 1970s.

Not just an Amphicar issue, same part is used in many other British cars.
The problem is they don't look burnt. The black plastic appears to become
conductive and the spark goes to earth via the distributor shaft.

Bill Davies one of the best Triumph parts suppliers in the UK said this:

"Reliability has been a problem with recently available rotor arms intended
for Lucas 4 & 6 cylinder distributors, particularly when used with
electronic ignition or other uprated ignition components. We now stock a
high quality replacement rotor arm for the popular Lucas distributors used
form the 1950s to 1974"

He sells them on his website
www.rarebits4classi<wbr>cs.co.uk

David C

</blockquote>



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[David Chapman]

> As Amphi owners which rotor do we purchase, the 101 or 104? I have had the
> same exact problem down here in Florida. Amphi died in the middle of the
> lake and had to > be towed ashore and flatbed trucked home.

Original Amphicar will be a 101. You should be able to find apart number
ending 25D on the distributor body.

If you have a Spitfire engine it might use the later 45D distributor (which
looks very different) in which case it would be the 104.

David C

 

[laserfixr@aol.com]

<table id="role_body" style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: Comic Sans MS" bottomMargin="7" leftMargin="7" topMargin="7" rightMargin="7"><font id="role_document" face="Comic Sans MS" color="#000000" size="3">
Thanks David for the rotor info. Can you purchase these rotors here in the states or must they be purchased on your side of the pond?

<font lang="0" face="Comic Sans MS" size="3" FAMILY="SCRIPT" PTSIZE="12">

<font lang="0" face="Comic Sans MS" size="3" FAMILY="SCRIPT" PTSIZE="12">Best Regards,

Steve Sell
West Palm Beach, Florida
'66 Red/White</font></font></font>


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[David Chapman]

> Thanks David for the rotor info. Can you purchase these rotors here in the
> states or must they be purchased on your side of the pond?

I don't think they are for sale in the US yet. The new production is UK
made. The one "mistake" that was made in the production is that they are
indistinguishable from the faulty ones - in hindsight it would have been
better for the new ones to be marked or made a different colour. Bill
Davies who commisioned them is supplying them to other traders but best and
safest option is to buy direct from him. www.rarebits4classics.co.uk He
does ship internationally.

David C