Resto guidlines

[a_colo_native]

I have a large library of thousands of Amphi photos (probably the
largest anywhere) that I have been looking at for a long time with
this very thing in mind. Sadly I missed seeing the 77 mile green car
that sold a couple years ago. I still may try to get to it to
photograph it in detail. I have a very nice early survivor car that
I will use as well. It will need to be partially disassembled to get
the shots that will be needed. It is something that not only should
be done, but will get done eventually.

We love our Amphicars, but with so many people out there ignorant to
what is correct and what is not are unknowingly putting people in
danger. The red one on eBay would not float for 2 minutes w/o it's
door seals. Imagine an unknowing family with children who think it's
safe, load up and drive into a lake. There would not be enough time
to get it out of the water before it sank even if the driver kept
their calm. That my friends is life threatening ignorance for $50+k.

The BJ car is nice no doubt, but NOT correct as advertised. Nothing
huge, but a few small things. Incorrect none the less. There needs
to be some documentation done for those who want it. I am not saying
anything but a correct car is best. I am saying if you want a
correct car, where do you go to find out wire routing, correct
colors, what gets what type of seal, correct screws for each
application etc? I answer these questions a lot as I am sure Hugh
and the others do as well.

I will make it a project for my time as Prez. Maybe a simple page
will show up soon on the members only section? Hummm....

John Bevins
Prez/Webmaster

 

[a_colo_native]

I have a large library of thousands of Amphi photos (probably the
largest anywhere) that I have been looking at for a long time with
this very thing in mind. Sadly I missed seeing the 77 mile green car
that sold a couple years ago. I still may try to get to it to
photograph it in detail. I have a very nice early survivor car that
I will use as well. It will need to be partially disassembled to get
the shots that will be needed. It is something that not only should
be done, but will get done eventually.

We love our Amphicars, but with so many people out there ignorant to
what is correct and what is not are unknowingly putting people in
danger. The red one on eBay would not float for 2 minutes w/o it's
door seals. Imagine an unknowing family with children who think it's
safe, load up and drive into a lake. There would not be enough time
to get it out of the water before it sank even if the driver kept
their calm. That my friends is life threatening ignorance for $50+k.

The BJ car is nice no doubt, but NOT correct as advertised. Nothing
huge, but a few small things. Incorrect none the less. There needs
to be some documentation done for those who want it. I am not saying
anything but a correct car is best. I am saying if you want a
correct car, where do you go to find out wire routing, correct
colors, what gets what type of seal, correct screws for each
application etc? I answer these questions a lot as I am sure Hugh
and the others do as well.

I will make it a project for my time as Prez. Maybe a simple page
will show up soon on the members only section? Hummm....

John Bevins
Prez/Webmaster

 

[John]

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "a_colo_native" <rma@...> wrote:
>
> I have a large library of thousands of Amphi photos (probably the
> largest anywhere) that I have been looking at for a long time with
> this very thing in mind. Sadly I missed seeing the 77 mile green car
> that sold a couple years ago. I still may try to get to it to
> photograph it in detail. I have a very nice early survivor car that
> I will use as well. It will need to be partially disassembled to get
> the shots that will be needed. It is something that not only should
> be done, but will get done eventually...
> John Bevins
> Prez/Webmaster
>

I have a (67) Amphi that was only driven one summer and put away with
just 974 original miles on it in storage. The motor is stuck from
sitting and I only removed the head trying to free it up so far and
lost interest for the moment with other projects. However, if someone
needs photos of something in question I'll try to help out where
possible. While the restorations being debated in this thread isnt for
everyone, there still is a need to preserve documented history for
those few that will take on the task.

John
isettas.com

 

[John]

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "a_colo_native" <rma@...> wrote:
>
> I have a large library of thousands of Amphi photos (probably the
> largest anywhere) that I have been looking at for a long time with
> this very thing in mind. Sadly I missed seeing the 77 mile green car
> that sold a couple years ago. I still may try to get to it to
> photograph it in detail. I have a very nice early survivor car that
> I will use as well. It will need to be partially disassembled to get
> the shots that will be needed. It is something that not only should
> be done, but will get done eventually...
> John Bevins
> Prez/Webmaster
>

I have a (67) Amphi that was only driven one summer and put away with
just 974 original miles on it in storage. The motor is stuck from
sitting and I only removed the head trying to free it up so far and
lost interest for the moment with other projects. However, if someone
needs photos of something in question I'll try to help out where
possible. While the restorations being debated in this thread isnt for
everyone, there still is a need to preserve documented history for
those few that will take on the task.

John
isettas.com

 

[a_colo_native]

> While the restorations being debated in this thread isnt for
> everyone, there still is a need to preserve documented history for
> those few that will take on the task.
>
> John
> isettas.com

John -

I see you understand the point here. That is why I want to take on
this project. No doubt, one day these cars will be judged as they
become more valuable. But that is not the point I was trying to make
here.

Not many have the luxury of a complete car to referance when restoring
an Amphi. The books help, other members help, and of course all the
photos you took when disassembling the car help. Oh wait, you forgot
to take photos when you took apart the car? Or that guy who took his
apart 15 years ago before you bought it never took pictures either?

So for many reasons this is important. The documentation of an
original Amphicar will be a great resource for amature restorers who d
not have the info, for future owners who want to do an accurate
restoration and for anyone interested in how something was orignally
assembled.

If you don't care about originality, that is your choice, but there
are many of us who favor originality. It's simply a matter of
preferance.

"Original" does not mean you have to have the exact spark plugs from
THAT car. It means you have the correct type as specified from the
factory. "Original" does mean that you must use the original spec
Amphicar parts, not replacement (replacement = function the same but
not exact, like the VW master VS Amphi master) parts. Right now it
does not really matter if you use late VS early axels or different
fluids. When these cars are judged, you will have to have correct
early axels and grey top bows for that early car, a painted dash with
chrome vent windows and black top bows for the late cars. Remember
there was a day when Duesenbergs, Packards, Cords and Auburns were
just tranportation.

If originality isn't important to you, get one and play with it, make
it yours! There is nobody who will degrade you for it (unless of
course it's yellow!)

If you like originality as do many of us. Look for those NOS parts, be
sure the screws for the visors are oval head phillips machine screws,
the bottom is satin black, the trim is not plastic and if it was green
from the factory, it will remain green. One day the survivors (NICE
condition, original and untouched) will be the most valuable and the
correct restorations will be second to that.

John "Mostly all original" Bevins
Rocky Mountain Amphicar

 

[a_colo_native]

> While the restorations being debated in this thread isnt for
> everyone, there still is a need to preserve documented history for
> those few that will take on the task.
>
> John
> isettas.com

John -

I see you understand the point here. That is why I want to take on
this project. No doubt, one day these cars will be judged as they
become more valuable. But that is not the point I was trying to make
here.

Not many have the luxury of a complete car to referance when restoring
an Amphi. The books help, other members help, and of course all the
photos you took when disassembling the car help. Oh wait, you forgot
to take photos when you took apart the car? Or that guy who took his
apart 15 years ago before you bought it never took pictures either?

So for many reasons this is important. The documentation of an
original Amphicar will be a great resource for amature restorers who d
not have the info, for future owners who want to do an accurate
restoration and for anyone interested in how something was orignally
assembled.

If you don't care about originality, that is your choice, but there
are many of us who favor originality. It's simply a matter of
preferance.

"Original" does not mean you have to have the exact spark plugs from
THAT car. It means you have the correct type as specified from the
factory. "Original" does mean that you must use the original spec
Amphicar parts, not replacement (replacement = function the same but
not exact, like the VW master VS Amphi master) parts. Right now it
does not really matter if you use late VS early axels or different
fluids. When these cars are judged, you will have to have correct
early axels and grey top bows for that early car, a painted dash with
chrome vent windows and black top bows for the late cars. Remember
there was a day when Duesenbergs, Packards, Cords and Auburns were
just tranportation.

If originality isn't important to you, get one and play with it, make
it yours! There is nobody who will degrade you for it (unless of
course it's yellow!)

If you like originality as do many of us. Look for those NOS parts, be
sure the screws for the visors are oval head phillips machine screws,
the bottom is satin black, the trim is not plastic and if it was green
from the factory, it will remain green. One day the survivors (NICE
condition, original and untouched) will be the most valuable and the
correct restorations will be second to that.

John "Mostly all original" Bevins
Rocky Mountain Amphicar