rear play

[David Derer]

> whole rear wheel assembly had about 1/4 inch play;
> not rotational play, but play when I pushed/pulled
> on the front

Another problem I encounter more often than not, is the way the spring washers,
spacer, and bearings are put together. What happens is washers are put in wrong
and spacing is incorrect. Then hub is smushed on real tight. So taper is jammed
up the little hubs behind. Makes it about impossible to get hub back off but
also alllows back and forth movement. **** A sand flea as President, only in
America!! Poda Poda!!! I still have My bottle of Celina tookillya- Maybe the
Prez will come out in May. Later Dave the Wave

 

[WB6WSN]

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<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----
<div style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black">From: David Derer
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 3:44 PM
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">Subject: [amphicar-lovers] rear play

<tt>


> whole rear wheel assembly had about 1/4 inch play;
> not rotational play, but play when I pushed/pulled
> on the front

Another problem I encounter more often than not, is the way the spring washers, spacer, and bearings are put together. What happens is washers are put in wrong and spacing is incorrect. Then hub is smushed on real tight. So taper is jammed up the little hubs behind. Makes it about impossible to get hub back off but also alllows back and forth movement.
</blockquote>
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<font face="Times New Roman" color="#0000ff" size="4">Dave & Gord and others, I would appreciate a critique of my swing-arm axle re-assembly technique as described below:</font>
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<font face="Times New Roman" color="#008000" size="4">Just a short note about the re-assembly sequence for the swing arm axle shafts, since the maintenance and parts manuals don't cover this as clear as I would like.</font>
<font color="#008000"></font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#008000" size="4">After removing the six hex-head bolts that hold the swing arm bearing carrier into the hull, you can pull the swing arm and bearing assembly straight out of the hull socket. Be prepared, as the assembly will be heavy, and the swing arm bearing assembly is over a foot long.</font>
<font color="#008000"></font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#008000" size="4">I found that clamping the swing arm in a heavy bench vise was best, as this holds the weight of the assembly while you take it apart. Hold the outboard big nut with a thin wrench, while loosening the inboard big nut with a huge socket (or whatever). After removing the washers and springs, the bearing carrier can be lifted off the swing arm shaft. (Try rotating the carrier as you pull it off the shaft.) Don't miss the thin washer that will either be stuck to the swing-arm side of the bearing carrier, or still sitting on the swing arm bearing shaft. It may be glued in place so well that you don't see it at first.</font>
<font color="#008000"></font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#008000" size="4">I was happy that I took everything apart, as the grease inside the bearing carrier looked like a fudge brownie. Look at the two bronze bearings inside each end of the bearing carrier for signs of galling. Remember, the vehicle weight was against the upper 1/3 of the outboard bearing and the lower 1/3 of the inboard bearing. After you get all the grease off of everything, you may need to lightly polish these bearing surfaces. Also look at the swing arm shaft for corresponding wear.</font>
<font color="#008000"></font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#008000" size="4">Once you start re-assembly, you ought to put in new Zerk fittings. Zerks are cheap, and you really can't ever quite clean all the crud out of the old ones. Further, I found some of my old Zerks had bad sealing springs.</font>
<font color="#008000"></font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#008000" size="4">Before you slide the bearing carrier back onto the swing arm shaft, don't forget that thin washer! Put a little smear of Amsoil grease on both faces of the washer, drop it on the shaft, and rotate it a bit to distribute the grease. Now slide the bearing carrier onto the shaft. Then, drop the washer with the internal "D" shaped hole onto the shaft. Next, drop one of the Belleville washers onto the shaft, concave side facing inboard (toward the threaded end of the shaft. Next, drop the other Belleville washer onto the shaft, concave side facing the first washer. Next, drop on the very thick flat washer. Finally, thread on one of the huge nuts, and run it down to the flat-washer face till its finger-tight. Don't put the other huge nut on yet.</font>
<font color="#008000"></font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#008000" size="4">Now is the time to start pumping Amsoil grease into the bearing carrier via the Zerk on the end of the swing arm axle shaft. (I know, the manual says to pre-load the carrier with grease. I tried that one time. It was a mess, and I still didn't get all that much grease inside. Better to just pump and pump.) Patience!!! You will pump almost a whole cartridge of grease into the carrier before the grease begins to squish out of both ends of the shaft.</font>
<font color="#008000"></font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#008000" size="4">Now, using a huge socket, tighten the huge nut to yield about 0.024" of further compression. This will be a nut rotation of about 1/3 turn. The two Belleville washers will be compressed slightly, but you won't notice any visible change. Rotate the bearing carrier on the axle shaft to verify that there's no binding or wobble or play. It shouldn't spin freely, but it should allow easy rotation by hand without any noticeable binding.</font>
<font color="#008000"></font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#008000" size="4">Now, put on the last huge nut, hold the outboard nut with a thin wrench, and tighten the inboard nut against the outboard nut. (Turn only the inboard nut, never the outboard nut.) Now pump a bit more grease, and rotate the carrier just to be sure everything feels OK. Slip a new gasket onto the inboard side of the carrier flange, and install the assembly back into the hull.</font>
<font color="#008000"></font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#008000" size="4">I found the fit of the carrier flange (with the drilled holes) to the hull flange (with the internally threaded holes) was not very precise! The bolts did not easily mate with the threaded holes, and I had to try several rotational positions of the carrier flange to get all the bolts in place. I finally got so mad about this that I pulled the carrier and drilled all six holes to a slightly larger diameter. This makes it a lot easier to re-install the bearing carrier into the hull. Also, be prepared to chase the female threads in the hull flange with a tap. Years of weathering can allow the threads to be crudded up a bit. When the bearing carrier is out of the hull, that's a great time to clean the female threads.</font></tt>

 

[rdboggie@comcast.net]

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Dave,
I'm glad you brought the washer thing up. I'm pretty sure I replaced these bearings last year when I replaced a worn drive shaft. I'm usually very careful to watch the sequence of items when I do the removal and then, just to make sure, I compare what I have to the exploded view in the parts catalog, which, unfortunately, doesn't always match up. And I'll never know if some previous mechanic messed up the order.

Should I trust exactly what I see on plate 20 of the spare parts book?
What you call 'spring washers' I believed are labeled item 7 (disc washers).
Should they be oriented this way: ( ) or this way: )(

There is also an unidentified item between the spring washers and the swing axle.
Same is true for outside bearing, between items 3 and 9.

Any help is appreciated. I'd hate to end up with the same problem when all is done.

As always, ever grateful to a great group.

Randy
Blue '67
Gaithersburg, MD

<blockquote style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message --------------

>
>
>
> > whole rear wheel assembly had about 1/4 inch play;
> > not rotational play, but play when I pushed/pulled
> > on the front
>
> Another problem I encounter more often than not, is the way the spring washers,
> spacer, and bearings are put together. What happens is washers are put in wrong
> and spacing is incorrect. Then hub is smushed on real tight. So taper is jammed
> up the little hubs behind. Makes it about impossible to get hub back off but
> also alllows back and forth movement. **** A sand flea as President, only in
> America!! Poda Poda!!! I still have My bottle of Celina tookillya- Maybe the
> Prez will come out in May. Later Dave the Wave
>
>
>
>
>
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[WB6WSN]

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<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----
<div style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black">From: rdboggie@comcast.net
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 12:48 PM
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">Subject: Re: [amphicar-lovers] rear play


Dave,
I'm glad you brought the washer thing up. I'm pretty sure I replaced these bearings last year when I replaced a worn drive shaft. I'm usually very careful to watch the sequence of items when I do the removal and then, just to make sure, I compare what I have to the exploded view in the parts catalog, which, unfortunately, doesn't always match up. And I'll never know if some previous mechanic messed up the order.

Should I trust exactly what I see on plate 20 of the spare parts book?
What you call 'spring washers' I believed are labeled item 7 (disc washers).
Should they be oriented this way: ( ) or this way: )(

There is also an unidentified item between the spring washers and the swing axle.
Same is true for outside bearing, between items 3 and 9.

Any help is appreciated. I'd hate to end up with the same problem when all is done.

As always, ever grateful to a great group.

Randy
Blue '67
Gaithersburg, MD
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#0000ff" size="4"></font></blockquote>
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<font face="Times New Roman" color="#0000ff" size="4">You might want to read Message 11947. It was posted about 24 hours prior to your question, and contains detailed answers. Feel free to add your comments.</font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#0000ff" size="4"></font>
<font face="Times New Roman" color="#0000ff" size="4">Ed
El Cajon, CA USA
67 Rust Guppy
</font>
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