Radiator Problem

A

Arnold Hite

Guest
O.K. I am ready to report about a question I posted back in August. The
original message was:

For years I've been nursing a poorly performing radiator. In the hot
summer months the car slowly heats up. When the temperature needle
finally edges up to the hot zone, I slow down to 45-50 and she begins to
slowly cool. If I stop and idle, she cools faster. I have flushed the
radiator, replaced the antifreeze, changed the thermostat, and added a
liquid to the radiator claiming to make it work better. None of this
seems to make a difference. I am convinced the problem is a clogged up
radiator.

Many of you were kind enough to send me suggestions. John
(minnow@amohicar.net) suggested pulling the radiator and having it flow
tested and boiled. I did that although I ?m not sure if the radiator
shop boiled it out. They reported it easily passed the flow test. They
also repaired a small leak and repainted it gloss black. Too bad the
rest of my engine compartment doesn?t look as nice. Mike I. identified
the oil cooler fins as a possible culprit. I checked them. They were
about 80% clogged, even though I had attempted to clean them many times
while installed in the car. I guess that doesn?t work too well. While it
was out, I cleaned it really well. I did not have the oil cooler checked
for flow, nor did I have the insides cleaned. I would have done it
except I just forgot. It?s re-installed now.

Many folks including Ron in PA and Marc suggested I replace all of the
rubber seals that help direct outside air through the radiator fins. The
ones on top seemed o.k. so I left them. I did replace the ones on the
sides and underneath the radiator housing.

Tommy in Tampa warned about removing the oil cooler hoses from the
cooler. Yes, as suggested, I removed them from the oil filter housing.
My car is a great example of what can happen if one attempts to remove
the hoses from the oil cooler. Evidently, a previous owner attempted
that. Now those nuts are nicely rounded. Perhaps I should polish them.

While doing all of that, I managed to destroy a couple of the vibration
isolators that mount the radiator to its frame. I ordered substitute
parts from with McMaster-Carr at Mcmaster.com. They work great. The part
number was 9217K49. The description was:
Metric Natural Rubber,
$1.84 each,
Cylindrical Sandwich Mount,
Male to Male, M8 X 1.25 thread.
I should post that to the club web site.

After all that, I was eager to test drive the car. Today I did. THERE IS
ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE. The car still over heats. Today?s high was
only in the 70s. I was so upset I yanked out the thermostat hoping it
was bad even though it was only three years old. Without the thermostat
the car still overheats.

Now I?m down to only two remaining theories. 1) The car is running
correctly and the sender unit is defective. And 2) The top rubber that I
judged to be o.k. is really bad.

So, how good does the rubber at the top of the radiator shroud have to
be to be effective? Mine is not torn. It leans inward about 45 degrees
especially around the corners. It does not touch against the engine
hood. Should it? I measure about ? inch space between the top of the
rubber and the engine cover. It seems to be the same for the entire top
of the shroud. Is that bad?

Getting hot in Charleston,
Arnold
 
T

tommyintpa@aol.com

Guest
Re: Re: radiator problem

Arnold, You gotta figure out what the actual water temp is. Can you go to Pep
Boys and buy a water temp gage set? Even if you remove it after you ascertain
how hot Amphi is. But even without a temp gage if it runs hot at a steady
temp it may be the sending unit but if it keeps getting hotter and hotter then
you should look elsewhere.
Tommy in Tampa


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
W

WB6WSN

Guest
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnold Hite" <ahite@Charleston.Net>
To: <amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 7:39 PM
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] radiator problem


> O.K. I am ready to report about a question I posted back in August. The
> original message was:
>
> For years I've been nursing a poorly performing radiator.

You have a poorly performing cooling SYSTEM, but not necessarily the
radiator.

SNIP

> After all that, I was eager to test drive the car. Today I did. THERE IS
> ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE. The car still over heats.


SNIP

> The top rubber that I judged to be o.k. is really bad.
>
> So, how good does the rubber at the top of the radiator shroud have to
> be to be effective? Mine is not torn. It leans inward about 45 degrees
> especially around the corners. It does not touch against the engine
> hood. Should it? I measure about ? inch space between the top of the
> rubber and the engine cover. It seems to be the same for the entire top
> of the shroud. Is that bad?

Yes Arnold, that's bad. It should touch all along the gasket line. The fan
is re-circulating hot engine compartment air back through the radiator. Not
only does that make the air into the radiator hotter than it should be, it
also doesn't blow the hot air out of the engine cover exhaust louvers as
well as it should. Also, the air cleaner is sucking hotter-than-normal
intake air, so your carb is running hotter, and the engine is putting out
just a bit less power.

BTW, be sure you are running with antifreeze, and also get your radiator cap
pressure tested.

Replace that gasket and take another drive!

Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy
 
M

MARK AMSDILL

Guest
Dear Arnold, Hello how are you other than hot? Did you check the actual
antifreeze temp? I find that many times the sender is out of calibration as
is the case with my amphi. I know my car runs hot on the gauge by 10 degrees
or so. Is your car boiling over or stalling? Good luck and keep us posted ,
this is a common problem. Thanks, Mark 62 blue , 62 white Dexter, Mich
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnold Hite" <ahite@Charleston.Net>
To: <amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 9:39 PM
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] radiator problem


> O.K. I am ready to report about a question I posted back in August. The
> original message was:
>
> For years I've been nursing a poorly performing radiator. In the hot
> summer months the car slowly heats up. When the temperature needle
> finally edges up to the hot zone, I slow down to 45-50 and she begins to
> slowly cool. If I stop and idle, she cools faster. I have flushed the
> radiator, replaced the antifreeze, changed the thermostat, and added a
> liquid to the radiator claiming to make it work better. None of this
> seems to make a difference. I am convinced the problem is a clogged up
> radiator.
>
> Many of you were kind enough to send me suggestions. John
> (minnow@amohicar.net) suggested pulling the radiator and having it flow
> tested and boiled. I did that although I ?m not sure if the radiator
> shop boiled it out. They reported it easily passed the flow test. They
> also repaired a small leak and repainted it gloss black. Too bad the
> rest of my engine compartment doesn?t look as nice. Mike I. identified
> the oil cooler fins as a possible culprit. I checked them. They were
> about 80% clogged, even though I had attempted to clean them many times
> while installed in the car. I guess that doesn?t work too well. While it
> was out, I cleaned it really well. I did not have the oil cooler checked
> for flow, nor did I have the insides cleaned. I would have done it
> except I just forgot. It?s re-installed now.
>
> Many folks including Ron in PA and Marc suggested I replace all of the
> rubber seals that help direct outside air through the radiator fins. The
> ones on top seemed o.k. so I left them. I did replace the ones on the
> sides and underneath the radiator housing.
>
> Tommy in Tampa warned about removing the oil cooler hoses from the
> cooler. Yes, as suggested, I removed them from the oil filter housing.
> My car is a great example of what can happen if one attempts to remove
> the hoses from the oil cooler. Evidently, a previous owner attempted
> that. Now those nuts are nicely rounded. Perhaps I should polish them.
>
> While doing all of that, I managed to destroy a couple of the vibration
> isolators that mount the radiator to its frame. I ordered substitute
> parts from with McMaster-Carr at Mcmaster.com. They work great. The part
> number was 9217K49. The description was:
> Metric Natural Rubber,
> $1.84 each,
> Cylindrical Sandwich Mount,
> Male to Male, M8 X 1.25 thread.
> I should post that to the club web site.
>
> After all that, I was eager to test drive the car. Today I did. THERE IS
> ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE. The car still over heats. Today?s high was
> only in the 70s. I was so upset I yanked out the thermostat hoping it
> was bad even though it was only three years old. Without the thermostat
> the car still overheats.
>
> Now I?m down to only two remaining theories. 1) The car is running
> correctly and the sender unit is defective. And 2) The top rubber that I
> judged to be o.k. is really bad.
>
> So, how good does the rubber at the top of the radiator shroud have to
> be to be effective? Mine is not torn. It leans inward about 45 degrees
> especially around the corners. It does not touch against the engine
> hood. Should it? I measure about ? inch space between the top of the
> rubber and the engine cover. It seems to be the same for the entire top
> of the shroud. Is that bad?
>
> Getting hot in Charleston,
> Arnold
>
>
>
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> Archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> For more information about this List and other available services
> visit:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> amphicar770@yahoo.com
> This list is provided as a free service. Please support our sponsors at:
> http://www.growerflower.com/default.asp?id=41762
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
 
R

Ray Handloser

Guest
I was having the same problem. Every year the car would run hotter
than the previous year. My solution: I took the radiator to a
radiator shop & had them take it apart & rebuild it using new up to
date cooling fins. No more problems. Ray

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "MARK AMSDILL"
<markamsdill@c...> wrote:
> Dear Arnold, Hello how are you other than hot? Did you check the actual
> antifreeze temp? I find that many times the sender is out of
calibration as
> is the case with my amphi. I know my car runs hot on the gauge by 10
degrees
> or so. Is your car boiling over or stalling? Good luck and keep us
posted ,
> this is a common problem. Thanks, Mark 62 blue , 62 white Dexter, Mich
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Arnold Hite" <ahite@C...>
> To: <amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 9:39 PM
> Subject: [amphicar-lovers] radiator problem
>
>
> > O.K. I am ready to report about a question I posted back in
August. The
> > original message was:
> >
> > For years I've been nursing a poorly performing radiator. In the hot
> > summer months the car slowly heats up. When the temperature needle
> > finally edges up to the hot zone, I slow down to 45-50 and she
begins to
> > slowly cool. If I stop and idle, she cools faster. I have flushed the
> > radiator, replaced the antifreeze, changed the thermostat, and added a
> > liquid to the radiator claiming to make it work better. None of this
> > seems to make a difference. I am convinced the problem is a clogged up
> > radiator.
> >
> > Many of you were kind enough to send me suggestions. John
> > (minnow@a...) suggested pulling the radiator and having it flow
> > tested and boiled. I did that although I `m not sure if the radiator
> > shop boiled it out. They reported it easily passed the flow test. They
> > also repaired a small leak and repainted it gloss black. Too bad the
> > rest of my engine compartment doesn't look as nice. Mike I. identified
> > the oil cooler fins as a possible culprit. I checked them. They were
> > about 80% clogged, even though I had attempted to clean them many
times
> > while installed in the car. I guess that doesn't work too well.
While it
> > was out, I cleaned it really well. I did not have the oil cooler
checked
> > for flow, nor did I have the insides cleaned. I would have done it
> > except I just forgot. It's re-installed now.
> >
> > Many folks including Ron in PA and Marc suggested I replace all of the
> > rubber seals that help direct outside air through the radiator
fins. The
> > ones on top seemed o.k. so I left them. I did replace the ones on the
> > sides and underneath the radiator housing.
> >
> > Tommy in Tampa warned about removing the oil cooler hoses from the
> > cooler. Yes, as suggested, I removed them from the oil filter housing.
> > My car is a great example of what can happen if one attempts to remove
> > the hoses from the oil cooler. Evidently, a previous owner attempted
> > that. Now those nuts are nicely rounded. Perhaps I should polish them.
> >
> > While doing all of that, I managed to destroy a couple of the
vibration
> > isolators that mount the radiator to its frame. I ordered substitute
> > parts from with McMaster-Carr at Mcmaster.com. They work great.
The part
> > number was 9217K49. The description was:
> > Metric Natural Rubber,
> > $1.84 each,
> > Cylindrical Sandwich Mount,
> > Male to Male, M8 X 1.25 thread.
> > I should post that to the club web site.
> >
> > After all that, I was eager to test drive the car. Today I did.
THERE IS
> > ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE. The car still over heats. Today's high was
> > only in the 70s. I was so upset I yanked out the thermostat hoping it
> > was bad even though it was only three years old. Without the
thermostat
> > the car still overheats.
> >
> > Now I'm down to only two remaining theories. 1) The car is running
> > correctly and the sender unit is defective. And 2) The top rubber
that I
> > judged to be o.k. is really bad.
> >
> > So, how good does the rubber at the top of the radiator shroud have to
> > be to be effective? Mine is not torn. It leans inward about 45 degrees
> > especially around the corners. It does not touch against the engine
> > hood. Should it? I measure about ? inch space between the top of the
> > rubber and the engine cover. It seems to be the same for the
entire top
> > of the shroud. Is that bad?
> >
> > Getting hot in Charleston,
> > Arnold
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> > Archives:
> > http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> > For more information about this List and other available services
> > visit:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> > To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> > amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> > amphicar770@y...
> > This list is provided as a free service. Please support our
sponsors at:
> > http://www.growerflower.com/default.asp?id=41762
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
 
M

Marc Schlemmer

Guest
Arnold,
I still think the rubber seal is the key.....
If it truly does solve the problem, you'll be both mad and happy. Mad
because you've tried all the "hard to fix" things without the easy to
replace rubber. But then again, you'll be so happy if it does work riding
around in your cool running Amphi!
Get that rubber replaced and sealing against the engine cover.

Marc.
 
W

WB6WSN

Guest
Re: Re: radiator problem

----- Original Message -----
From: tommyintpa@aol.com
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: [amphicar-lovers] Re: radiator problem


Arnold, You gotta figure out what the actual water temp is. Can you go to Pep
Boys and buy a water temp gage set? Even if you remove it after you ascertain
how hot Amphi is. But even without a temp gage if it runs hot at a steady
temp it may be the sending unit but if it keeps getting hotter and hotter then
you should look elsewhere.
Tommy in Tampa



NEVER pass up the opportunity to buy a new tool! What you need is an Extech
IR201 digital infrared non-contact optical thermometer, with peak-hold and a
laser target designator. You can measure the heat of a hose, the side of the
block, the fins of the radiator, the temp of the air coming out of the radiator
(aim at fan blade or pulley), the temp of the transmissions, the temp of a
u-joint or wheel bearing, or take your cat's temp the easy way!

And it's only about $60 (when I bought mine a few months ago, I only paid $40)
at places like:

http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/extech/thermometers/ir201.htm

Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
A

Arnold Hite

Guest
Thanks for all of the advice. The best idea at the moment is that the
rubber seal running along the top of my radiator box is worn out. Mine
is complete, and it is not torn, but it does lean in. It doesn't touch
anywhere on the engine hood. Also I notice something else that I think
might be aggravating the problem. My radiator box appears to be bent
inward. When I do install new rubber seals, they will touch the hood
inside the louvers. That does seem right. But, if I bend the two sides
of my radiator box out a couple of inches the rubber would touch up
against the bracing channel that runs between the louvers. I'm going to
check out some other Amphicars at Mt. Dora before I take action.

Arnold
Johns Island, SC
 
R

rogtwo@aol.com

Guest
Sorry I'm a bit late here, but here are my thoughts on your temperature
problem:

You say: "When the temperature needle finally edges up to the hot zone, I
slow down to 45-50 and she begins to slowly cool. If I stop and idle, she cools
faster."

This evidence indicates you likely do have a cooling problem, not just a
miscalibrated temperature gage. BUT, since it is easy to do, I recommend that
you
first check the actual water temperature. If you don't have a thermometer
that will work, you can get a cooking thermometer cheaply (probably $5 or less).
To check the temperature, simply remove the radiator cap (when the engine is
cold), and stick the thermometer in the hole. Drive the car until it gets
over temperature (on the dash gage) and then go back and check the thermometer
in the radiator. I think the Amphi thermostat is a 160 degree thermostat
(quite cool by today's standards). If the temperature is more than 10 degrees
over
set temperature of the thermostat, then you definitely have a cooling problem.

Now, I'm quite skeptical that the rubber seals around the radiator are your
problem under the conditions you describe. At 70 degrees and highway speeds, I
doubt that even missing seals would cause a problem. The seals would be more
important at lower speeds with high power requirements form the engine (like
climbing a steep hill in 2nd gear, or running "flat-out" in the water).
However, testing if the seals are a problem would not be hard to do either.
Simply
hang a normal thermometer above/behind the radiator. You can hang it from one
of the louvers on the engine cover. Again drive the car until it gets hot.
Then stop and very quickly read the thermometer (before the temperature can
change much). I if the temperature reads under 90 degrees, then I would be
confidant that your rubber seals are not the problem (in 70 degree air I suspect
you will find the temp here is more like 75 to 80 deg.)

OK, so here are my thoughts on other possible cooling problems:

Clogged radiator -- I agree with your assessment. Even with the flow test, I
think a clogged radiator is the most likely problem. Since Amphicars don't
have the excess cooling capacity that modern cars have, even if your radiator
is only 1/3 clogged it might cause the problems you are seeing. Also, as you
noticed with the oil cooler, the fins can be clogged preventing air flow. I
assume the radiator shop cleaned these out before painting it, but you should
check just to make sure. If the fins and tubes are otherwise in good condition,
then you can have the tubes "rodded out" -- removal of the end tanks and
cleaning of the tubes. However, it might be just as cheep to have the radiator
re-cored as was already suggested. Re-coring means replacing all the tubes and
fins with new ones (the end tanks are reused). This assures optimum cooling
performance.

Loose fan belt -- While I don't think this is real likely, it's very easy to
check. If the belt is loose, it may be slipping and thus not spinning the fan
and water pump fast enough. While your checking the belt, take it off for a
minute and check that the water pump and generator both spin freely.

Bad head gasket -- If the head gasket is bad, it can let exhaust leak into
the cooling system causing overheating. The best way to check for this is to go
to a shop with an exhaust gas analyzing machine. They can stick the probe in
your radiator and "sniff" for exhaust fumes.

Stuck thermostat -- It fits with your description, but since you had the same
problem with no thermostat, this is obviously not the solution.

Bent fan (or missing fan blades) -- While this could cause cooling problems
(especially on an Amphicar that relies heavily on the fan to move air), I doubt
this is your problem. If it was, then your car probably wouldn't cool faster
at idle.

Damaged water pump -- The water pump could be missing blades, or the blades
could be loose and spinning on the shaft. But again, you probably wouldn't get
better cooling at idle if this were the cause.

Big exhaust leak (maybe) -- If your exhaust is going into the engine
compartment instead of out the back of the car, it might add enough heat to the
engine
compartment to make your engine overheat. But, if this were your problem,
you should HEAR it LOUD and clear.

That's all I can think of. Check your fan belt, and verify that the engine
is actually getting too hot. If it is, then have the radiator rodded-out or
re-cored. I'd bet money that this will fix your problem.

Roger
White '63
Seattle


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
M

markr132001

Guest
I have just read all of the radiator posts for the last 4 days and
have 2 cents to add.
I have the very same problem and have taken the following steps to
eliminate it.
Replaced the rubber seal on top - No help.
Wrapped the entire exhaust system with header wrap - No help.
Removed and had the radiator boiled out and painted by a shop - No
help.
Tightened the belt - No help.
Installed an electric fan on the back side of the radiator - No help.
Removed the t-stat - No help.
Run almost all water with very little antifreeze with water wetter
in it - No help.
Had to install electric fuel pump to get it to run while hot and
wrapped the fuel line with heat stuff.
Here is what I have decided the problem is: The engine may be
clogged due to sitting for many years, or the water pump is not
working properly. These engines also have a tendency to have an air
bubble and must be "burped" to get it out. I am replacing the engine
with a rebuilt 1500 and getting the radiator rebuilt/recored. I have
a new water pump and a 13 blade fan to install with the electric
fan. I am putting headers on and may not even use much of a muffler
as they tend to slow the hot stuff down. I will install a new water
temp guage and it will not run hot, at least I hope for that as a
side benefit to having more power. I am done with the little carb
sitting there on my heat shield boiling the gas. Part of the problem
is the combination intake/exhaust manifold cast iron hulk sitting
there red hot under the carb. Who thought that was a good idea? With
the Weber and side intake with headers it is 2 seperate pieces, an
advantage going in. A work in progress.
Mark
 
W

WB6WSN

Guest
Re: Re: Radiator Problem

----- Original Message -----
From: markr132001
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 5:00 PM
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: Radiator Problem


I have just read all of the radiator posts for the last 4 days and
have 2 cents to add.
I have the very same problem and have taken the following steps to
eliminate it.
Replaced the rubber seal on top - No help.
Wrapped the entire exhaust system with header wrap - No help.
Removed and had the radiator boiled out and painted by a shop - No
help.
Tightened the belt - No help.
Installed an electric fan on the back side of the radiator - No help.
Removed the t-stat - No help.
Run almost all water with very little antifreeze with water wetter
in it - No help.
Had to install electric fuel pump to get it to run while hot and
wrapped the fuel line with heat stuff.
Here is what I have decided the problem is: The engine may be
clogged due to sitting for many years, or the water pump is not
working properly. These engines also have a tendency to have an air
bubble and must be "burped" to get it out. I am replacing the engine
with a rebuilt 1500 and getting the radiator rebuilt/recored. I have
a new water pump and a 13 blade fan to install with the electric
fan. I am putting headers on and may not even use much of a muffler
as they tend to slow the hot stuff down. I will install a new water
temp guage and it will not run hot, at least I hope for that as a
side benefit to having more power. I am done with the little carb
sitting there on my heat shield boiling the gas. Part of the problem
is the combination intake/exhaust manifold cast iron hulk sitting
there red hot under the carb. Who thought that was a good idea? With
the Weber and side intake with headers it is 2 seperate pieces, an
advantage going in. A work in progress.
Mark


Mark:

You should have been able to eliminate the question of water pump flow by
looking at the turbulence in the radiator when you had removed the thermostat.
The coolant should have been churning through there. If not, then there was a
serious restriction somewhere, or the water pump blades were corroded or broken
off.

One more thing is that the engine internal passages might have a very thick
coating of mineralization on them, forming a thermal insulator between the block
and the coolant.

BTW, going to headers will yield a lot more noise.

I'm months away from worrying about my engine, but who is a good source of
Triumph Type B engine parts? Victoria British, Team Triumph and Spitbits all
seem to start with the next later engines, 1147's but with the two-piece
manifolds and the Weber carbs.

Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
M

markr132001

Guest
> Mark:
>
> You should have been able to eliminate the question of water pump
flow by looking at the turbulence in the radiator when you had
removed the thermostat. The coolant should have been churning
through there. If not, then there was a serious restriction
somewhere, or the water pump blades were corroded or broken off.
>
> One more thing is that the engine internal passages might have a
very thick coating of mineralization on them, forming a thermal
insulator between the block and the coolant.
>
> BTW, going to headers will yield a lot more noise.
>
> I'm months away from worrying about my engine, but who is a good
source of Triumph Type B engine parts? Victoria British, Team
Triumph and Spitbits all seem to start with the next later engines,
1147's but with the two-piece manifolds and the Weber carbs.
>
> Ed
> El Cajon
> 67 Rust Guppy
>
>
Ed,

I looked into the radiator and saw little flow. Fluid just sitting
there, so something is not right. I will get that sorted out soon.

I try not to buy retail if possible. I am in the auto industry and
usually can get stuff for less, but when in a pinch I have used Moss
Motors. Ebay has also proven to have some good deals. I am using the
Weber DGV downdraft and Pierce manifold, and earplugs.

Later, Mark
 
C

Craig Taylor

Guest
Re: Re: Radiator Problem

"I am using the Weber DGV downdraft and Pierce manifold, and earplugs."

Mark, what is a Pierce manafold? I plan on running the Weber DGV on my 1500
conversion and have been looking into what options are avalible for the
exhaust...

Craig in North Pole Alaska
Red 66 Amphicar(RDUCKY)
 
M

markr132001

Guest
--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, Craig Taylor
<alaskanamphi@g...> wrote:
> "I am using the Weber DGV downdraft and Pierce manifold, and
earplugs."
>
> Mark, what is a Pierce manafold? I plan on running the Weber DGV
on my 1500 conversion and have been looking into what options are
avalible for the exhaust...
>
> Craig in North Pole Alaska

> Red 66 Amphicar(RDUCKY)

Craig,
The Triumph uses a different manifold than the MG (no kidding) and
the brand I found was Pierce. There is another brand too, but be
sure if you buy a Weber DGV that you are getting the Triumph
manifold. They are a bit harder to get and as such cost a little
more. I have a "normal" exhaust manifold also if I chicken out on
the headers which will fit via grinder if necessary. Gotta go with
the 2 piece system.
Also, car has been tuned by an expensive English car repairman and
is set to run good. Even indexed the plugs, replaced the voltage
regulator and rebuilt the carb. Painted the engine black and
(shudder) removed the air filter to see if additional air flow
helped. It is an air bubble, or blocked cooling passages and/or
water pump. I will get all 3 when the new 1500 is dropped in.
Later, Mark
 
D

dougparsons@ameritech.net

Guest
Mark,

Are you sure your gauge is good? or are you measuring the temp in
some other way?

Doug
 
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