Quarter panel rust

C

Craig

Guest
I wonder if some of you experienced body repair guys can give me some
advise. I'm going to be doing some rust repair on my Amphi and was
wondering what it take to do the job right. The lower rear quarters on
my 66, with the lips, need help. It appears that my car has some kind of
seal between the outer panel and inner panel at the battery tray area.
Is this supposed to keep water from getting into this area? I don't
think it would work to well. How do I get to or properly treat the
inside of this area? I will be cutting some metal from the rear quarters
but don't know how much or how far I will be going with it. All in all I
don't think it is extensive. The car spent most of its life in Fairbanks
with very low humidity. It has been repainted though so who knows. The
Bilge area and floors look good. Doors seem solid to. I guess I'm trying
to decide just how far to go. It has been repainted in the past but it
was a poor job. Looks good a 15 feet... With the interior and engine out
I'm thinking about going the whole nine yards.
Thanks, Craig


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
A

a_colo_native

Guest
> I'm thinking about going the whole nine yards.
> Thanks, Craig

Craig,

There is -->nothing<-- better you can do to your car to retain it's
value while it's apart than giving it a proper paint job. This is the
one thing that can set your car apart from others and insure it's
survival for a long time to come. It is the one thing that people
will judge the overall condition of the car by.

Going back to repair a second rate paint job is costly in time and
$$$. Go as far as your budget will allow. No need to do a show
quality job, but proper prep and quality materials will give the car
a feel and look of quality. I have seen cars with nice paint on a
poorly prepped body. No matter how nice it shined, the poorly
feathered repairs and sand marks took all that away and made it look
amature. This can deminish the value greatly.

Remove any sealants and foam from that area. It only serves as a
resevoir to hold water and feed the fire that we call rust. There is
no real way to tell how much needs repaired until you remove the
paint, bondo and rust. The best defense is to allow the area to dry
out. Foams and such won't allow that. This is why the pocket between
the 1/4 panels and floors rust away. Dirt and such gets in there and
hold the moisture against the metal.

John
 
J

John Friese

Guest
I like Por 15 for certain applications (like under the battery box)
but the stuff has rather poor adhesion to clean metal. It prefers to
be painted directly onto rusted surfaces. I prefer an two part epoxy
based product that's designed for immersion under gas and oil. It
also can be colored to match the original interior and requires no
primer. It's put out by Dupont and is called: Corlar 25P. I've also
used a copy of this stuff that appears to be exactly the same. It's
put out by Wasser High Tech Coatings of Baltimore MD and is sold under
the Neo brand. It's called Neo Mastic 811. Both of these products
are a 50/50 two part blend and 1 gallon cans are the smallest size
available, so you'll end up with 2 gallons of the material. That is
just about the perfect amount to do the total inside of the Amphicar
the way the factory did it. They used a heavy coating material from
the back end up to the steering box cover.

John Friese



--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, Craig <craigtaylor@a...> wrote:
> I wonder if some of you experienced body repair guys can give me some
> advise. I'm going to be doing some rust repair on my Amphi and was
> wondering what it take to do the job right. The lower rear quarters on
> my 66, with the lips, need help. It appears that my car has some kind of
> seal between the outer panel and inner panel at the battery tray area.
> Is this supposed to keep water from getting into this area? I don't
> think it would work to well. How do I get to or properly treat the
> inside of this area? I will be cutting some metal from the rear quarters
> but don't know how much or how far I will be going with it. All in all I
> don't think it is extensive. The car spent most of its life in Fairbanks
> with very low humidity. It has been repainted though so who knows. The
> Bilge area and floors look good. Doors seem solid to. I guess I'm trying
> to decide just how far to go. It has been repainted in the past but it
> was a poor job. Looks good a 15 feet... With the interior and engine out
> I'm thinking about going the whole nine yards.
> Thanks, Craig
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
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