I will look for the trans filling pump at my limited parts store and
also at a marina. Rene, I understand your point with using the mag
insert, I use that type plug on other vehicles and they have no
problems.
> The unit I use for regular tranny oil changes is that a fairly
ubiquitous orange and black hand pump found in most every auto supplies
shop. It sound to me from an earlier posting that that may be the same unit
you've used in addition to a "drill type" pump. All I can add is that while
it's a little tricky to get started, requiring a lot of patience as you feel
the heavier weight oil crawl ploop-plooping up the line and into the pump
cylinder, once "primed" and flowing I've found it acts like a siphon. Sure,
it doesn't get ALL of the oil out, but it does the trick for my regular
end-of-season "pamperings". I usually run the Amphi around a bit first to
whip and warm up the tranny oil a little before pumping it out, so I'm
pretty sure I am getting at least most of the temporarily suspended water
and other goobers out. If it's your first draining of the trannies, at the
least hint of minor water fouling (i.e. if your tranny oil looks like
anything other than bubbly honey), or if you're changing over to AMSOIL
synthetic lubricants for the first time, then one should certainly consider
the more difficult but thorough "full draining" described at
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/m1923.html and
http://www.amphicar.net/library/trannydraining.jpg and
http://www.amphicar.net/library/trannydrainingpix.jpg.
I need to apply a new door seal to the passenger side on the body, I
have a roll from Gordon Imports #11-34-33, soft black material 5/8"
wide x 1/8" thick, also 3M Super Weather-strip Adhesive.
Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no leaks.
The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching. How
fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it and
it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
corners.
> Basically the installation would go like this with Gordon's
original type seals:
1. Remove the old seals and adhesive, cleaning the door frame "channel"
where the seal lies thoroughly (an old toothbrush dabbed sparingly in
acetone will help remove stubborn old adhesive or sealant. Ummm...put out
that cigarette, OK?)
2. Apply adhesive sparingly to door frame channel.
3. Begin laying in new seal, front to rear, applying adhesive as you work
along.
4. When you come to the 90 degree bends in the door frame, compress, don't
s t r e t c h, the seal into place.
5. Examine the placement of the seal, wiping away any extra adhesive.
6. Close door and go away for 24 hours to allow it to set and settle in.
7. Next day: trim off any overage with a razor and open the door. There!
I sell SELF-adhesive door-at-body seals for $20 a pair. I had to get a
whole lot of the stuff specially cut once upon a time when Gordon was
temporarily out of them several years ago, as I was doing my own Amphi. My
seals are cut a tad wider (9/16") and just a smidgeon thicker (3/16") than
the original type seals on purpose: to help give "tired" by otherwise sound
door-at-door seals a second lease on life. Being self-adhesive, mine are
also a LOT easier to finagle into place. If you want strict originality, go
with Gordon's seals, If you want a cheaper and easier solution for
dribble-free boating, then see my ad at
http://www.amphicar.com/ads.htm.
They don't LOOK blatantly "unoriginal", and the ones in my Amphi have been
hanging in there since '95 with nary a dribble.
There were 2 pieces, doubled up on the car that I removed, I doubt
this was normal.
> Quite right. It sounds like the previous owner was trying to
beef up the thickness, for the reason described above, by adding a second
seal on top of the first.
~Bilgemaster~
