Propellor Shaft U-joint Bolts

  • Thread starter tommyintpa@aol.com
  • Start date
T

tommyintpa@aol.com

Guest
In a message dated 7/6/03 6:07:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, edprice@cox.net
writes:


> Today, I tried to remove the upper propeller shaft u-joints from the output
> flanges of the water transmission. Hmmm, not a hex head, not a Phillips, not
> an internal hex key! (This is Item #23 on Plate 19 of the parts manual.)
>
>

Hi Ed,
You can get the correct socket at Discount auto parts and I found them at
Home Depot. You will find those same bolts hold your rear break backing plate
and
your seat to the floor.
Tommy in Tampa
white 64
red 67
red 68


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
E

Ed Price

Guest
Today, I tried to remove the upper propeller shaft u-joints from the output
flanges of the water transmission. Hmmm, not a hex head, not a Phillips, not an
internal hex key! (This is Item #23 on Plate 19 of the parts manual.)

The book says it's an Allen-head, but it looks like a 12-point Bristol spline
key needed. Anyone know just what the head is on this bolt (before I resort to
the universal vise-grips)?

Looks like I need another special tool.

Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
B

bomby74

Guest
Ed,
Hold the vise-grips! That's a torks head screw. You can buy this
tool probably at any auto parts store for under $15.00. It looks
like a screw driver with interchangeable tips. Many late model cars
have torks head screws to secure directional lenses so you'll find
other uses for it too.
Since I started my restoration, my tool inventory has grown.
Especially in the metric department. But there's nothing like having
the right tool for the job.

Brian
 
L

lchricavem@aol.com

Guest
Re: Re: Propellor Shaft U-joint Bolts

Torx Head screw,


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
D

David Chapman

Guest
> The book says it's an Allen-head, but it looks like a 12-point Bristol
spline key needed. Anyone know just what the head is on this bolt (before I
resort to the universal vise-grips)?

It's not Torx, it's an 8mm "star" head and you need a thin shaft version of
the tool at least 40mm long to clear the UJ yoke, there is a ball head
version that is supposed to work at an angle but it doesn't have enough
internal contact and damages the bolt. Buy the best quality tool you can
find for this application, I had a "snap-on" version but have lost it so if
anyone finds something of quality that fits well and is available mail order
then let us know - at the moment I use the wrench that was supplied with the
original Amphicar toolkit !

You can replace the bolts with dome head Allen but not normal hex head as
they foul the yoke, the other place where the star bolt was used was to hold
the brake backplate on the rear hub (but only on early cars) if the ones
holding the prop shaft are chewed up then use the ones on the hub and use
ordinary M8 hex bolts to hold the backplate on.

David C
 
L

Larry & Nancy Solheim

Guest
8mm "star" is a standard fastener for older VWs.
Sears or any "tool box" -type store can provide.

--LarryS

--- David Chapman <david@manbus.com> wrote:
> > The book says it's an Allen-head, but it looks
> like a 12-point Bristol
> spline key needed. Anyone know just what the head is
> on this bolt (before I
> resort to the universal vise-grips)?
>
> It's not Torx, it's an 8mm "star" head and you need
> a thin shaft version of
> the tool at least 40mm long to clear the UJ yoke,
> there is a ball head
> version that is supposed to work at an angle but it
> doesn't have enough
> internal contact and damages the bolt. Buy the best
> quality tool you can
> find for this application, I had a "snap-on" version
> but have lost it so if
> anyone finds something of quality that fits well and
> is available mail order
> then let us know - at the moment I use the wrench
> that was supplied with the
> original Amphicar toolkit !
>
> You can replace the bolts with dome head Allen but
> not normal hex head as
> they foul the yoke, the other place where the star
> bolt was used was to hold
> the brake backplate on the rear hub (but only on
> early cars) if the ones
> holding the prop shaft are chewed up then use the
> ones on the hub and use
> ordinary M8 hex bolts to hold the backplate on.
>
> David C
>
>


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E

Ed Price

Guest
----- Original Message -----
From: David Chapman
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: [amphicar-lovers] Propellor Shaft U-joint Bolts


> The book says it's an Allen-head, but it looks like a 12-point Bristol
spline key needed. Anyone know just what the head is on this bolt (before I
resort to the universal vise-grips)?

It's not Torx, it's an 8mm "star" head and you need a thin shaft version of
the tool at least 40mm long to clear the UJ yoke, there is a ball head
version that is supposed to work at an angle but it doesn't have enough
internal contact and damages the bolt. Buy the best quality tool you can
find for this application, I had a "snap-on" version but have lost it so if
anyone finds something of quality that fits well and is available mail order
then let us know - at the moment I use the wrench that was supplied with the
original Amphicar toolkit !

You can replace the bolts with dome head Allen but not normal hex head as
they foul the yoke, the other place where the star bolt was used was to hold
the brake backplate on the rear hub (but only on early cars) if the ones
holding the prop shaft are chewed up then use the ones on the hub and use
ordinary M8 hex bolts to hold the backplate on.

David C


This is a follow-up on the subject of the propeller shaft / water transmission
U-joint bolts.

The name for this driver is "Serrated". It is definitely not a Torx (which has a
smooth radial wave pattern), definitely not a 12-point hex, and it's definitely
not a Bristol spline. NAPA stocks an 8 millimeter Serrated Wrench, part # 2304,
for about $9. The wrench is 75 millimeters (2 3/4") long, with a 5/16" hex
shank. This driver will fit into a standard 5/16" socket or box wrench.

This fits the U-joint bolts perfectly, although working space is tight (so
what's new about that) due to the U-joint yokes. They asked me if this was for
the "brake plate in my old German car". Somebody must have thought this drive
system was a good idea for something.

Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
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