paint code

hadleyohlinger

New Member
I am looking to repaint my 61 amphi. Where can I get the correct paint manufacturer and color code?
. It is off white with red trim and red seats.
Hadley
 

Ed Price

Member
Paint code data is posted in the members-only section of the IAOC website.


Ed Price
IAOC Membership Registrar
El Cajon, CA USA
WB6WSN
1961 Amphicar 770
1987 MB 420SEL





_____

From: hadleyohlinger [mailto:]
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 4:08 PM
To: edprice@cox.net
Subject: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20805] paint code


I am looking to repaint my 61 amphi. Where can I get the correct paint
manufacturer and color code?
. It is off white with red trim and red seats.
Hadley
 

Craig_Parada

Gold Subscriber
Hadley,



Sounds like you're in for a long, fun project!



Exterior: Beach Sand White = PPG #90113 (or Ditzler [not used any more]
#8703 [DAR offset 90113])

Go to a real automotive paint shop (not an auto parts store). They can mix
the correct color, and have tons of information. The extra cost of getting
top quality paint is very minor compared to the labor of prep and
application. Don't follow those National Geographics twits into clear-coat;
it's very fragile on a water-craft and does not look right at all. I found
that going in for supplies for a fun collector car really perks up their
day, and they'll provide great help and advice - but you have to bring the
finished car around when it's done!



Interior: Ivory on Dark Red

Amphicar interiors get hella faded after 40 or 50 years. You might be able
to use a bit of unexposed upholstery to approximate an interior color match.
Most people don't seem to care, but I think that leather-like red + cream
white look nice. Again, the cost of quality vinyl is a negligible part of
the whole job.



Craig-in-Alviso



_____

From: hadleyohlinger [mailto:]
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 4:08 PM
To: craig.parada@sbcglobal.net
Subject: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20805] paint code



I am looking to repaint my 61 amphi. Where can I get the correct paint
manufacturer and color code?
. It is off white with red trim and red seats.
Hadley
 

SNOWBIRD

Amphicar Expert
Strick paint specs has come into effect in Ontario and a few states, all they can sell now is Water based, Base clear, and I don't like the sound of that, I went in and stocked up on a few colours before it came down and guess I have to get it out of country from now on.
The product I liked best was Dupont Premiere.. very deep soft colours. and easy to apply and buff up.
if you take in a unsanded glove box they can use the unsun touched inside of it and get an exact comp. matched colour
The colour I have for white cars is..code,696027n cascade white.. I have not opened the can yet.

GORD S
 

Midwest Amphicar

Worlds Largest Amphicar Destination
:eek:. Don't follow those National Geographics twits into clear-coat;
it's very fragile on a water-craft and does not look right at all. I found

What are you talking about "fragile"? I just got an email from owner of "Brown Wonder" base/clear red. Done very quickly and still holding up ten years later. Today finishing full resto #19, http://www.midwestamphicar.com/images/redroad.JPG majority base/clear and none have ever heard"that does not look right". I think you had a bad frozen Alaskan paint. Later Dave
 

brucea

New Member
Are you doing the work yourself? I have been in automotive refinish trade for 40 years. Either applying, selling or teaching and would advise you to get educated in corrosion primers and other catalized products. I agree clearcoat done correctly looks perfect.
Bruce Arndt
 

Craig_Parada

Gold Subscriber
Dave,

Not many cars had clear top-coat paint in the 1960s, and it looks different.
Now, almost all cars have that, and if the majority of your (all?)
restorations use it, most people would think it looks right. Not a big deal,
just a preference. Maybe those extra hours of sunlight out west here burns
off the clear top-coat.

By the way, that red one really does looks really good for having ten year
old paint. What? Oh, sorry, my bad.

Craig in Alviso (nee San Jose, Calif.)



_____

From: Midwest Amphicar [mailto:]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 4:25 AM
To: craig.parada@sbcglobal.net
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20805] Re: paint code



<http://www.amphicar770.com/amphicarforum/images/smilies/eek.gif> . Don't
follow those National Geographics twits into clear-coat;
it's very fragile on a water-craft and does not look right at all. I found

What are you talking about "fragile"? I just got an email from owner of
"Brown Wonder" base/clear red. Done very quickly and still holding up ten
years later. Today finishing full resto #19,
http://www.midwestamphicar.com/images/redroad.JPG majority base/clear and
none have ever heard"that does not look right". I think you had a bad frozen
Alaskan paint. Later Dave
 

azpaul50

Member
That ain't no joke about the effects of sunlight here out west. After no less than 10 paint jobs on my stuff in as many years, I found that urethane-based paint worked the best if not a concourse consideration. I was reading somewhere that due to environmental regs, only 10% of paint production today is genuine lacquer requiring additional safety considerations for painting. Most everything else is acrylic which really demands a clear coat to be presentable. My Met and tear drop trailer got urethane paint and still continues to shine better than anything else I have despite the sun. The problem with clear coat in this sort of environment is that is is more prone to cloud due to sun exposure. Otherwise, the paint beneath is in fairly good shape. When I was heavy in power boating, unfortunately, I waited too long to strip the clear coat and had to do both base and it all over.



To: azpaul50@hotmail.com
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20805] Re: paint code
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:57:32 -0400
From:




Dave,

Not many cars had clear top-coat paint in the 1960s, and it looks different.
Now, almost all cars have that, and if the majority of your (all?)
restorations use it, most people would think it looks right. Not a big deal,
just a preference. Maybe those extra hours of sunlight out west here burns
off the clear top-coat.

By the way, that red one really does looks really good for having ten year
old paint. What? Oh, sorry, my bad.

Craig in Alviso (nee San Jose, Calif.)



_____

From: Midwest Amphicar [mailto:]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 4:25 AM
To: craig.parada@sbcglobal.net
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20805] Re: paint code



<http://www.amphicar770.com/amphicarf...ilies/eek.gif> . Don't
follow those National Geographics twits into clear-coat;
it's very fragile on a water-craft and does not look right at all. I found

What are you talking about "fragile"? I just got an email from owner of
"Brown Wonder" base/clear red. Done very quickly and still holding up ten
years later. Today finishing full resto #19,
http://www.midwestamphicar.com/images/redroad.JPG majority base/clear and
none have ever heard"that does not look right". I think you had a bad frozen
Alaskan paint. Later Dave



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brucea

New Member
I have been in the automotive refinish business my whole life. I have seen 40 years worth of finish technology revolution. Lacquer is now considered a 2 year finish. No car manufacturer has used since the early 80's. The catalyzed urethane primers and topcoats are outstanding. Ultraviolet screening can only be acomplished in a clearcoat. I would also focus on the latest corrosion primers for longevity on our old steel!!
Bruce Arndt
 
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