multiple questions about re-assembly of the 1147 engine

okey0

Member
I've torn apart my 1147, and am ready to begin reassembly. I have a few questions I was hoping that any of you who have done this can help with.
1. Head studs: should they have any thread locker applied when putting them back in?
2. Rocker pedestal studs: thread locker?
2a. For that matter, should ANY of the bolts or studs have any sort of thread locker applied when re-installing? (connecting rod, main bearing, timing cover bolts, etc)
3. The oil gallery end plugs and the 4 bolts along side the oil gallery: should they have any sort of sealant applied to the threads?
4. What is the best way to re-seal the front sealing block? The book says to use "wellseal"--is that the same as rtv gasket sealer? and do I really tap pieces of wood in to tighten it up, as the manual shows on page 1/36?
5. The rear oil return scroll is an odd part to me; instead of seal back there, this scroll just rotates with the crank and the grooves in the scroll just keep the oil from leaking out? is that how it works?
6. Many places in the book mention applying "grease" to the paper gaskets when placing them on the engine (example--"position a new paper joint on the rear face of the crankcase with grease and lightly bolt the rear oil return scroll to this face") Is this necessary, if so, is it just regular old grease they are talking about?
7. what is this bolt for? I cant find it in the parts listing. it appears to be brass with a fiber washer. nothing was attached to it, but appears to have leaked some (coolant? maybe) in the past.
brass bolt.jpg
8. When my dad had this car, there must have been an issue with the heater, because he had the heater hose that comes out of the back of the water pump housing tied directly into the hose going in to the top of the cylinder head at the rear of the engine. My guess is that hose coming out the back of the water pump housing is supposed to run to the front of the car, go thru the heater core, and then return to the rear top of the motor. i'll probably just hook it up that same way and not bother with the heater core right now. Or, I was wondering if I could just install a plug in those locations and not even install the hose, or is that flow needed at the top of the cylinder head?
 

okey0

Member
oh, one more:
I didn't notice this when I put my timing chain cover in the parts washer (cause it was covered in 50 years worth of grime grease and oil), but when I started to scrub it, there was a fibrous sheet attached to it. basically coving the ribbed area. it was about as thick a cardboard, and about the consistency of it, but more a fiber than a cardboard. I haven't seen that on pictures of other triumph engines. just wondering if anyone had an idea. I removed all of it in the cleaning process.
 

SNOWBIRD

Amphicar Expert
there was a fibrous sheet attached to it. basically coving the ribbed area. it was about as thick a cardboard, and about the consistency of it, but more a fiber than a cardboard.

Always install a new CHAIN.
This was a soundproofing substance to keep chain noise down in the car.. Not to important in a Amphicar as the fan wind noise is so loud you can't hear much else anyway.. leave removed and paint it black!

(1.2)Head studs. , wire brush, maybe run a die over them. if pitted.. replace with new ones. a drop of Blue lock tite and install . Have cyl. head planes as they are prone to blow head gaskets if not perfect.

(5)Rear oil keeper. if installed correct it will not leak oil. must be same gap all around, feeler gauge about .002 thou.
and 1 bolt on top of U has a brass washer, don't nix up location.


(8)Heater hose.. tend to rot when mixed with bilge junk, so I now use the plastic pipes the use for homes now, forget the generic name but aval. at Home depot.
(6)Gaskets,, don't use silicone gasket maker.. look like a cheap backyard fix. you can still get a gasket goo in a bottle with built in brush(good) or a spray gasket(very sticky)

(7)There is a bolt on back of head with brass washer and if bad oil from engine will leak out here.

(4)Yes wood pcs. do go in. This is a place you could add a bit of silicone.
(3) oil bolts should has brass washers.
remember to install a heat shield while apart, and insulate fuel lines.

I stock all engine parts incl. oversize pistons.

100_4656.JPG
 

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