"Magneto" Valve

[Ed Price]

All this talk about a "magneto" valve has bothered me a bit, because it fuzzes
the accuracy of what the valve is and does. A magneto valve should either
control a magneto, or be controlled by a magneto. The Amphi valve should be
called an electrically operated fuel valve, since it controls fuel flow, and is
operated by application of the 12 VDC vehicle power. I'll even accept calling it
a fuel cut-off valve. An Amphi doesn't have a magneto; it uses the very common
Kettering ignition system (cam actuated breaker points and a step-up HV coil).

The valve should be turned on (12 VDC applied to the control coil) whenever you
expect to run the engine, so the coil should be fed from the "RUN" contact on
the ignition switch. Maximum safety suggests you put the valve as close to the
fuel tank as possible. I am planning a major modification of my fuel tank; I'm
going to eliminate the bottom-fed fuel tap & fuel selector switch (with all it's
inherent leak problems), and permanently seal the bottom tank hole. I am then
installing a top-of-tank fuel port, and I will mount an electric fuel valve
there.

There's no magic in selecting a fuel valve; the Amphi sips fuel so slowly that a
valve OK for anything automotive will work for an Amphi.

Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy

----- Original Message -----
From: chasgould@aol.com
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 3:15 AM
Subject: Re: [amphicar-lovers] Digest Number 909


In a message dated 2/11/2003 3:36:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com writes:

> It is intended to inhibit the possibility of fuel
> "siphoning" down the fuel lines from the gas tank and pouring out the carb
> when the vehicle was parked, especially if on an incline when the fuel
> level
> in the tank is higher than the carb.
>
>

I don't have any valves (last owner removed them becaus eof leaks, and my car
has never siphoned any fuel out when parked, but I would feel safer with a
tap. Can anyone suggest an inline magneto valve that can be installed at an
easier accessable location than under the tank?
Thanks,
Chas


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[rogtwo@aol.com]

Ed,

I agree that the term "magneto" is confusing, this is why I put the name in
quotes in my first post. But, this is the name used by Gordon's, which I
believe makes it the "common" name for the part.

Then again, it's not clear where Gordon's gets this name as my parts
catalogue lists it (part 8-27-24) as a "Magnetic Valve", not a "Magneto
Valve". Further, the German name in the parts list is "Magnetventil". From
the following German - English dictionary: http://dict.tu-chemnitz.de/
"magnetventil" translates to "magnetic valve" or "solenoid valve", so where
"Magneto Valve" comes from is unclear, but I think we are probably stuck with
it.

Now, as long as we are talking semantics, technically the valve simply
prevent the "flow" of fuel to the carburetor not the "siphoning". A "siphon"
occurs when the liquid goes UP a pipe first and then DOWN to a lower
location. When the liquid goes DOWN first (and then up), it is simply
flowing.

But, the reality is, words only mean what the majority of people think they
mean. Words have no inherent meaning, so if everyone calls it a "magneto
valve" and "siphoning", then that's what it is (whether we like it or not).

Roger St. John


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[a_colo_native]

>>The valve should be turned on (12 VDC applied to the control coil)
whenever you expect to run the engine, so the coil should be fed from
the "RUN" contact on the ignition switch.

The "correct" (I.E. factory) location to get power for the valve is
off the brake light switch. It is switched on only after the bilge
blower timer is tripped (manually or auto mode) as is the "run"
contact on the ign switch. Either one will work fine, I just wanted
to point out the factory location opotion.

John

PS - Craig - Soryy about the "Tinker Bell" comment. (Was that a good
save? <cautiously looking ove my shoulder>

 

[Ed Price]

Re: Re: "Magneto" Valve

----- Original Message -----
From: a_colo_native <minnow@amphicar.net>
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2003 6:29 AM
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: "Magneto" Valve


>>The valve should be turned on (12 VDC applied to the control coil)
whenever you expect to run the engine, so the coil should be fed from
the "RUN" contact on the ignition switch.

The "correct" (I.E. factory) location to get power for the valve is
off the brake light switch. It is switched on only after the bilge
blower timer is tripped (manually or auto mode) as is the "run"
contact on the ign switch. Either one will work fine, I just wanted
to point out the factory location opotion.

John

PS - Craig - Soryy about the "Tinker Bell" comment. (Was that a good
save? <cautiously looking ove my shoulder>



Yes John, you are right about the fuel solenoid valve power connection. Best to
follow factory convention. I was talking about generic wiring for a fuel cut-off
solenoid valve. Also, my 67, which is really much older, doesn't have a blower.

About the siphoning possibility. Yes, the float valve in the carburetor bowl
should shut off the fuel flow and eliminate siphoning. The exception is when you
park on a steep grade, and the fuel level in the float bowl is not level. The
slope of the car puts the tank at an even higher level than the carb bowl, and
the float might "think" that the bowl level needs replenishing, so it opens a
bit. Fuel flows by siphon effect, and never stops because the fuel is running
out the side of the float bowl and into the manifold. This might stop when the
intake manifold fills with gas, but then remember that the intake manifold drain
tube (that funny little pipe that goes nowhere) will drain the intake manifold
into the bilge. Absolute worst-case scenario is gas in your oil pan, gas in any
cylinder with a partially open intake valve, gas in the intake manifold, about
15 gallons of gas in the bilge, and an empty gas tank.

Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy


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