Inner Door Seals

J

jfriese

Guest
Al,
I've looked at all three types of inner door seals that are
available. Bilgemaster's door seals are a bit wider and thicker than
the original. The extra thickness is nice if your outer seals are
old, but if you have new outer seals, the extra thickness is wasted
and just puts more strain on the door closure. You might use that
version with old outer seals.
The strips Hugh sells are made of the toughest material. It is also
too wide to lay nicely within the flat area. It isn't self stick,
like the others and requires that messy glue to install. If you trim
the width down and go through the mess with the glue, I think you'll
have the best job.
The seals that Gord Souter sells are interesting. They are of
original thickness and narrower than Hugh's or Bilgemaster's so that
they lay nicely into the channel between the body curve and that
raised lip along the edge. I suspect the self stick glue is happier
if it can lay on a flat surface anyway. One roll will easily handle a
car. In fact I think it would do two cars.

John Friese
67 White (CA, IFLOAT2 )
67 Red (in restoration)


--- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "Al Heath" <aheath@u...> wrote:
>
> >> It seems the drivers side
> >> door seal was torn-a-sundder (an 8
> >> inch section completely missing)from
> >> some careless egress.
>
> I was working only 200 miles out of town last week, so naturally
took the
> Amphi with me and swam in Austin with Warren a bunch. But in giving
many
> rides last week, the same thing happened to me. A lot of people
don't step
> over, but put their foot and kinda roll out of the car, and thus the
body
> door seal gets a lot of abuse from shoes tearing at it. My seals
(from
> Hugh) are just the same width (or maybe a couple 1000ths larger) as
to the
> metal where they glue down. I'm thinking about trimming a tad off
so the
> top edge isn't quite so vulnerable to getting snagged with a
misplaced
> shoe. What'd ya think?
>
> Al
 
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