Ignition switch and door locks

  • Thread starter alaskanamphi@gci.net
  • Start date
A

alaskanamphi@gci.net

Guest
I'm going to dive into my starting system and am looking for some info. In the
past a previous owner disconected the wirening from the bilge blower, mounted a
ford type solinoid switch on the fire wall instead of the original with the push
botton and installed a push button next to the ignition switch. I'd like to get
the system back to original. Is there anything different in the way the original
solinoid is wired up as compared to a Ford type? I found the originl push botton
solinoid switch in the trunk and hope to test it and see if it is working. If I
need to replace the ignition switch can a lock smith easily match it to the
glove box and doors? The key I got with the car was a shortened down GM key that
does not work in the doors or glove box. I'm not sure if my ignition swich is
original or not. Is there an easy way to tell? It has a momentary starting
position but does not do anything. Currently to start the car I turn the key to
the on position and push the button th
at was installed next to the key. Yes some ya hoo drilled a hole in the dash I
will need to patch when I get the systen back to original. I'm hoping the bilge
blower can be hooked up and will work with the timer and push button at the
heater controll. Anyway thanks for any advise.

Craig in Alaska
Red 66 (FLATLK)
 
R

Ray Handloser

Guest
Give Hugh Gordon a call. I'm pretty sure he can get you a key using
the car serial number. Ray


--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, alaskanamphi@g... wrote:
> I'm going to dive into my starting system and am looking for some
info. In the past a previous owner disconected the wirening from the
bilge blower, mounted a ford type solinoid switch on the fire wall
instead of the original with the push botton and installed a push
button next to the ignition switch. I'd like to get the system back to
original. Is there anything different in the way the original solinoid
is wired up as compared to a Ford type? I found the originl push
botton solinoid switch in the trunk and hope to test it and see if it
is working. If I need to replace the ignition switch can a lock smith
easily match it to the glove box and doors? The key I got with the car
was a shortened down GM key that does not work in the doors or glove
box. I'm not sure if my ignition swich is original or not. Is there an
easy way to tell? It has a momentary starting position but does not do
anything. Currently to start the car I turn the key to the on position
and push the button th
> at was installed next to the key. Yes some ya hoo drilled a hole in
the dash I will need to patch when I get the systen back to original.
I'm hoping the bilge blower can be hooked up and will work with the
timer and push button at the heater controll. Anyway thanks for any
advise.
>
> Craig in Alaska
> Red 66 (FLATLK)
 
A

alaskanamphi@gci.net

Guest
Re: Re: Ignition switch and door locks

Are there any #'s on the locks them selves? I'm sure my doors and glove box are
original. Just not sure about the ignition switch.

Craig in Alaska
Red 66 (FLATLK)

----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Handloser <rayhand@yahoo.com>
Date: Sunday, March 23, 2003 7:44 pm
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: Ignition switch and door locks

> Give Hugh Gordon a call. I'm pretty sure he can get you a key using
> the car serial number. Ray
>
>
> --- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, alaskanamphi@g... wrote:
> > I'm going to dive into my starting system and am looking for some
> info. In the past a previous owner disconected the wirening from the
> bilge blower, mounted a ford type solinoid switch on the fire wall
> instead of the original with the push botton and installed a push
> button next to the ignition switch. I'd like to get the system
> back to
> original. Is there anything different in the way the original solinoid
> is wired up as compared to a Ford type? I found the originl push
> botton solinoid switch in the trunk and hope to test it and see if it
> is working. If I need to replace the ignition switch can a lock smith
> easily match it to the glove box and doors? The key I got with the car
> was a shortened down GM key that does not work in the doors or glove
> box. I'm not sure if my ignition swich is original or not. Is
> there an
> easy way to tell? It has a momentary starting position but does
> not do
> anything. Currently to start the car I turn the key to the on position
> and push the button th
> > at was installed next to the key. Yes some ya hoo drilled a hole in
> the dash I will need to patch when I get the systen back to original.
> I'm hoping the bilge blower can be hooked up and will work with the
> timer and push button at the heater controll. Anyway thanks for any
> advise.
> >
> > Craig in Alaska
> > Red 66 (FLATLK)
>
>
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>
>
>
 
A

a_colo_native

Guest
Craig,

The original ign switches will only have "Off" "Run" & "Start"
postions. There should be a 4 or 5(?) digit number on the back of all
the locks. That will get you a key from Hugh.

From owning dozens of ragtops over the years, I never lock the doors
anymore as a knife works as a master key very well and is very spendy
to repair. I like my glove box to lock, but it can be opened easilly
anyway so it's not a concern.

JB
 
M

Michael Echemann

Guest
Re: Re: Ignition switch and door locks

Craig:
There are numbers on all three. Take them off and you will find them on each.
Some matched and some did not depending on year. Hugh Gordon has many keys but
not all of them so supply him with your numbers he can let you know what he has.
The ignition switches are long gone so if you have something that works you
might consider keeping it as it.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: alaskanamphi@gci.net
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: [amphicar-lovers] Re: Ignition switch and door locks


Are there any #'s on the locks them selves? I'm sure my doors and glove box
are original. Just not sure about the ignition switch.

Craig in Alaska
Red 66 (FLATLK)

----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Handloser <rayhand@yahoo.com>
Date: Sunday, March 23, 2003 7:44 pm
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: Ignition switch and door locks

> Give Hugh Gordon a call. I'm pretty sure he can get you a key using
> the car serial number. Ray
>
>
> --- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, alaskanamphi@g... wrote:
> > I'm going to dive into my starting system and am looking for some
> info. In the past a previous owner disconected the wirening from the
> bilge blower, mounted a ford type solinoid switch on the fire wall
> instead of the original with the push botton and installed a push
> button next to the ignition switch. I'd like to get the system
> back to
> original. Is there anything different in the way the original solinoid
> is wired up as compared to a Ford type? I found the originl push
> botton solinoid switch in the trunk and hope to test it and see if it
> is working. If I need to replace the ignition switch can a lock smith
> easily match it to the glove box and doors? The key I got with the car
> was a shortened down GM key that does not work in the doors or glove
> box. I'm not sure if my ignition swich is original or not. Is
> there an
> easy way to tell? It has a momentary starting position but does
> not do
> anything. Currently to start the car I turn the key to the on position
> and push the button th
> > at was installed next to the key. Yes some ya hoo drilled a hole in
> the dash I will need to patch when I get the systen back to original.
> I'm hoping the bilge blower can be hooked up and will work with the
> timer and push button at the heater controll. Anyway thanks for any
> advise.
> >
> > Craig in Alaska
> > Red 66 (FLATLK)
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------
> -~-->
> Your own Online Store Selling our Overstock.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/rZll0B/4ftFAA/46VHAA/xiTolB/TM
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> --~->
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> Archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> For more information about this List and other available services
> visit:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> amphicar770@yahoo.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>


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THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Archives:
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visit:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
A

alaskanamphi@gci.net

Guest
Re: Re: Ignition switch and door locks

Thanks John, any idea how easy it would be to rekey the locks to match? Can the
door lock # be seen with out taking the lock out? I'm not to worried about
making the locks all work but figured if I could get a single key that works in
the doors and glove box I'd ues that to get a new cylender made for the ignition
if I was going to need to replace it.

Craig in Alaska
Red 66 (FLATLK)

----- Original Message -----
From: a_colo_native <minnow@amphicar.net>
Date: Monday, March 24, 2003 7:20 am
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: Ignition switch and door locks

> Craig,
>
> The original ign switches will only have "Off" "Run" & "Start"
> postions. There should be a 4 or 5(?) digit number on the back of
> all
> the locks. That will get you a key from Hugh.
>
> From owning dozens of ragtops over the years, I never lock the
> doors
> anymore as a knife works as a master key very well and is very
> spendy
> to repair. I like my glove box to lock, but it can be opened
> easilly
> anyway so it's not a concern.
>
> JB
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------
> -~-->
> Your own Online Store Selling our Overstock.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/rZll0B/4ftFAA/46VHAA/xiTolB/TM
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> --~->
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> Archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> For more information about this List and other available services
> visit:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> amphicar770@yahoo.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
 
M

Michael Echemann

Guest
Re: Re: Ignition switch and door locks

Craig:
you will need to remove the glove box and door locks. The ignition switch won't
have to be removed fully but loosened to get a good look behind it. Also a good
locksmith should be able to cut you a lead key on the spot.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: alaskanamphi@gci.net
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: [amphicar-lovers] Re: Ignition switch and door locks


Thanks John, any idea how easy it would be to rekey the locks to match? Can
the door lock # be seen with out taking the lock out? I'm not to worried about
making the locks all work but figured if I could get a single key that works in
the doors and glove box I'd ues that to get a new cylender made for the ignition
if I was going to need to replace it.

Craig in Alaska
Red 66 (FLATLK)

----- Original Message -----
From: a_colo_native <minnow@amphicar.net>
Date: Monday, March 24, 2003 7:20 am
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: Ignition switch and door locks

> Craig,
>
> The original ign switches will only have "Off" "Run" & "Start"
> postions. There should be a 4 or 5(?) digit number on the back of
> all
> the locks. That will get you a key from Hugh.
>
> From owning dozens of ragtops over the years, I never lock the
> doors
> anymore as a knife works as a master key very well and is very
> spendy
> to repair. I like my glove box to lock, but it can be opened
> easilly
> anyway so it's not a concern.
>
> JB
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------
> -~-->
> Your own Online Store Selling our Overstock.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/rZll0B/4ftFAA/46VHAA/xiTolB/TM
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> --~->
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> Archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> For more information about this List and other available services
> visit:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> amphicar770@yahoo.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>


Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT




THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Before posting requests for information, please check the List
Archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
For more information about this List and other available services
visit:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
amphicar770@yahoo.com


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
A

a_colo_native

Guest
> Thanks John, any idea how easy it would be to rekey the locks to
match? Can the door lock # be seen with out taking the lock out? I'm
not to worried about making the locks all work but figured if I could
get a single key that works in the doors and glove box I'd ues that
to get a new cylender made for the ignition if I was going to need to
replace it.

The Ign # can be seen by removing the nut and pushing it into the
dash to see it on the flat face that mates to the back of the dash.
The other 2 will have to come out. They are way easier than they look.

I have not taken any to a lock smith to see if they can rework 'em or
not. I can imagine they would be difficult, this ia an Amphicar
though! ;) I may try that sometime soon.

On another note ... yesterday I came this ---> <--- (literally
missed me by 2" or less) close to getting my Amphi tagged. Some moron
decided that I was suppose to stop for a stop sign that didn't exist.
Good thing I spent time drying out my wet brakes! WHEW!

John
 
J

John Friese

Guest
Craig,

Amphicar used two different key "blanks" during the run of the cars.
Assuming the glove box and doors are original, they probably used the
same blanks. Any locksmith can easily rekey the lock cylinders to a
new and common key. Since you ignition switch is not original, it's
very doubtful that the key blank would be the same, so getting a
common key to work for it, the glove box and doors probably wouldn't
work. One of my cars was all original and all the locks were common
keyed. My other car had been "hacked" and I chased around to find an
original Amphicar ignition switch that had the same key blank as the
other cylinders and had a locksmith key the glove box and door
cylinder to match the ignition. I think he only charged me $25 to do
both cylinders and provide me with a couple of extra keys. It must
have been really easy since he charged me so little to do the job but
these were all original Amphicar parts and they used the same key
blank. There is, if I recall, a 3 digit number on each lock cylinder.
The first digit in the string identifies the key blank series and the
last two are the code for the key cut. If your glove box lock and
door cylinder share the same first number, they can be common keyed.

Good Luck,

John Friese

P.S. I think I have an extra glove box cylinder in my spare parts box.



--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, alaskanamphi@g... wrote:
> I'm going to dive into my starting system and am looking for some
info. In the past a previous owner disconected the wirening from the
bilge blower, mounted a ford type solinoid switch on the fire wall
instead of the original with the push botton and installed a push
button next to the ignition switch. I'd like to get the system back to
original. Is there anything different in the way the original solinoid
is wired up as compared to a Ford type? I found the originl push
botton solinoid switch in the trunk and hope to test it and see if it
is working. If I need to replace the ignition switch can a lock smith
easily match it to the glove box and doors? The key I got with the car
was a shortened down GM key that does not work in the doors or glove
box. I'm not sure if my ignition swich is original or not. Is there an
easy way to tell? It has a momentary starting position but does not do
anything. Currently to start the car I turn the key to the on position
and push the button th
> at was installed next to the key. Yes some ya hoo drilled a hole in
the dash I will need to patch when I get the systen back to original.
I'm hoping the bilge blower can be hooked up and will work with the
timer and push button at the heater controll. Anyway thanks for any
advise.
>
> Craig in Alaska
> Red 66 (FLATLK)
 
A

alaskanamphi@gci.net

Guest
Re: Re: Ignition switch and door locks

Thanks John, I think I'll pull the glove box lock and try to find a key to match
that. With luck it should work in the doors too. I'll pull the ignition switch
and see fi the # matches. If not I'll try to have it keyd to the door/glove box
locks.
Thanks again!

Craig in Alaska
Red 66 (FLATLK)

----- Original Message -----
From: John Friese <jfriese@mindspring.com>
Date: Monday, March 24, 2003 10:42 am
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Re: Ignition switch and door locks

> Craig,
>
> Amphicar used two different key "blanks" during the run of the
> cars.
> Assuming the glove box and doors are original, they probably used the
> same blanks. Any locksmith can easily rekey the lock cylinders to a
> new and common key. Since you ignition switch is not original, it's
> very doubtful that the key blank would be the same, so getting a
> common key to work for it, the glove box and doors probably wouldn't
> work. One of my cars was all original and all the locks were common
> keyed. My other car had been "hacked" and I chased around to find an
> original Amphicar ignition switch that had the same key blank as the
> other cylinders and had a locksmith key the glove box and door
> cylinder to match the ignition. I think he only charged me $25 to do
> both cylinders and provide me with a couple of extra keys. It must
> have been really easy since he charged me so little to do the job but
> these were all original Amphicar parts and they used the same key
> blank. There is, if I recall, a 3 digit number on each lock cylinder.
> The first digit in the string identifies the key blank series and the
> last two are the code for the key cut. If your glove box lock and
> door cylinder share the same first number, they can be common keyed.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> John Friese
>
> P.S. I think I have an extra glove box cylinder in my spare parts
> box.
>
>
>
> --- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, alaskanamphi@g... wrote:
> > I'm going to dive into my starting system and am looking for some
> info. In the past a previous owner disconected the wirening from the
> bilge blower, mounted a ford type solinoid switch on the fire wall
> instead of the original with the push botton and installed a push
> button next to the ignition switch. I'd like to get the system
> back to
> original. Is there anything different in the way the original solinoid
> is wired up as compared to a Ford type? I found the originl push
> botton solinoid switch in the trunk and hope to test it and see if it
> is working. If I need to replace the ignition switch can a lock smith
> easily match it to the glove box and doors? The key I got with the car
> was a shortened down GM key that does not work in the doors or glove
> box. I'm not sure if my ignition swich is original or not. Is
> there an
> easy way to tell? It has a momentary starting position but does
> not do
> anything. Currently to start the car I turn the key to the on position
> and push the button th
> > at was installed next to the key. Yes some ya hoo drilled a hole in
> the dash I will need to patch when I get the systen back to original.
> I'm hoping the bilge blower can be hooked up and will work with the
> timer and push button at the heater controll. Anyway thanks for any
> advise.
> >
> > Craig in Alaska
> > Red 66 (FLATLK)
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------
> -~-->
> Make Money Online Auctions! Make $500.00 or We Will Give You
> Thirty Dollars for Trying!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/yMx78A/fNtFAA/46VHAA/xiTolB/TM
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> --~->
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> Archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> For more information about this List and other available services
> visit:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> amphicar770@yahoo.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
 
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