Help Needed

[chris_skeeles]

As a regular reader you probably know I have been concerned about my
front wheel bearings. Well I finally gotbrave and opened up my front
wheel hub. After drying myself off from the cup of water that poured
out on me, I began to dismantle.

Small first tapered bearing came off easy. (fell off easy?) But big
one was stuck on there. I read somewhere it is OK to destroy bearing
while removing cuz you will be replacing. Easy enuf...ruined and
removed. BUT I only managed to get the cage and the rollers off.
There is still a colar (outside ring?) that the rollers ride on.

Does this come off too? If so how!?!? It looks like its on there
pretty solid and I am not sure if I should start prying from behind
it.

So lets say I get all the stuff off.. I have been reading my
maintenance manual (which leaves plenty of room for explainations)
and it says I now need these special tools (as mentioned in recent
postings) in particular AC2 AC35 AC9 and AC30 to put my new bearings
(which I have not yet bought) on.

Can someone be a hero and help me fix this poor thing via replying?
I was told this is an easy job, but I just need some assistance.

Chris Skeeles
1963 Red Amphicar
'One wheel off'

 

[David Chapman]

>Small first tapered bearing came off easy. (fell off easy?) But big
>one was stuck on there. I read somewhere it is OK to destroy bearing

Chris, yes you need to do a one time mod, as you will see you push it out from
the inside of the hub but the problem is it's difficult to get behind it, best
solution is a thin sharp chisel (or ideally pry bar) put hub with wheel stud
down and then tap one side then the other. Normally you end up with a groove in
the casting about 3 mm wide and 3mm deep each side, that allows you to get to
the back of the bearing - next time it's easy to push it out with a screwdriver.

Hope that makes sense - it's difficult to explain !

David C

 

[chris_skeeles]

--- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "David Chapman" <david@m...> wrote:
> >Small first tapered bearing came off easy. (fell off easy?) But big
> >one was stuck on there. I read somewhere it is OK to destroy
bearing
>
> Chris, yes you need to do a one time mod, as you will see you push
it out from
> the inside of the hub but the problem is it's difficult to get
behind it, best
> solution is a thin sharp chisel (or ideally pry bar) put hub with
wheel stud
> down and then tap one side then the other. Normally you end up with
a groove in
> the casting about 3 mm wide and 3mm deep each side, that allows you
to get to
> the back of the bearing - next time it's easy to push it out with a
screwdriver.
>
> Hope that makes sense - it's difficult to explain !
>
> David C


Yes makes perfect sense. In fact my HUB has the mod already (by
Hugh Gordon in 1986).

But the ring I am refering to is on the shaft itself. Its the one
that has access hampered by the brake anchor plate (which I removed
via the hex nuts).

It would be on the INSIDE of the large tapered bearing. (where the
bearing meets the axle, not the hub).

Does this come off and if so how?!


PS: Man thanks for the quick reply! All the way from U.K. even!

Chris "appriciative" Skeeles

 

[chris_skeeles]

--- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "chris_skeeles" <chris@s...> wrote:
>
> It would be on the INSIDE of the large tapered bearing. (where the
> bearing meets the axle, not the hub).
>
> Does this come off and if so how?!
>


To further assist in the identfication on said ring, refer to
Maintenance Man. page 5/8 figure 4 where the TIP of the arrow is
pointing. (picture show arrow actually terminating its pointer at
this inner ring which lead me to think it was to be removed)

Chris

 

[David Chapman]

Re: Re: Help Needed

That one on the shaft always looks like it will be tricky - and you can't get a
puller behind it - but what's always worked for me is 2 big screwdrivers (or pry
bars) at 180 degrees to each other - apply equal force (that's important) and
off it pops.

David Chapman

 

[chris_skeeles]

--- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "David Chapman" <david@m...> wrote:
> That one on the shaft always looks like it will be tricky - and you
can't get a
> puller behind it - but what's always worked for me is 2 big
screwdrivers (or pry
> bars) at 180 degrees to each other - apply equal force (that's
important) and
> off it pops.
>
> David Chapman

I will give it a good "heave ho" but it looks like it (the pry bar)
may damage the rubber inner seal. Is it a simple task to
remove/replace this rubber? (again with no special amphitool)

Secondly (while I have your valuable attention). What is the
technique for putting the new bearings (large one looks to be the
trick) back on without amphitool? Does it just slide on? Same with
rings in hub that I knocked out.

Thanks so much!!!

 

[David Chapman]

Re: Re: Help Needed

Chris,

Yes you should always change that front oil seal anyway, it's an important part
on Amphicar just pry it out but note which way round it fits.

Fitting the bearings, tap them in with a hard wood block or you can use the old
bearing - but keep them level.

David C

 

[chris_skeeles]

--- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "David Chapman" <david@m...> wrote:
> Chris,
>
> Yes you should always change that front oil seal anyway, it's an
important part
> on Amphicar just pry it out but note which way round it fits.
>
> Fitting the bearings, tap them in with a hard wood block or you can
use the old
> bearing - but keep them level.
>
> David C

You have been a real pal David. Thanks for the help!!!! Cant wait to
get back into the garage tommorow and try it! Then call Gordon and
order the bearings and seal. Thanks again chap! (no pun intended)

Chris'

 

[Mike Israel]

Re: Re: Help Needed

I used two medium sized crow bars. The angle on them
at the end is just perfect and they are very strong.
Sears Hardware or Home Depot should have them for
about $5 each. As David indicates, use both
simultaneously (one on each side) and the pop right
off.

--- David Chapman <david@manbus.com> wrote:
> That one on the shaft always looks like it will be
> tricky - and you can't get a
> puller behind it - but what's always worked for me
> is 2 big screwdrivers (or pry
> bars) at 180 degrees to each other - apply equal
> force (that's important) and
> off it pops.
>
> David Chapman
>
>
>


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[chris_skeeles]

--- In amphicar-lovers@y..., Mike Israel <amphicar770@y...> wrote:
> I used two medium sized crow bars. The angle on them
> at the end is just perfect and they are very strong.
> Sears Hardware or Home Depot should have them for
> about $5 each. As David indicates, use both
> simultaneously (one on each side) and the pop right
> off.
>
> --- David Chapman <david@m...> wrote:
> > That one on the shaft always looks like it will be
> > tricky - and you can't get a
> > puller behind it - but what's always worked for me
> > is 2 big screwdrivers (or pry
> > bars) at 180 degrees to each other - apply equal
> > force (that's important) and
> > off it pops.
> >
> > David Chapman
> >
> >
> >




Good news! It popped right off just like everyone said it would
using the two crow bar method.

Another simple question. I notice a grove on the outside of the hub
where the dust cover suggly fits over the nut/pin area. Am I supposed
to fill this with a sealant or O-ring or grease or nothing? I intend
to use David Chapman's suggestion some time ago about small hole in
cover to release air an fill with screw.

Chris


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