Fuel Trap Question

  • Thread starter psenior01@aol.com
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P

psenior01@aol.com

Guest
I have a leaking fuel valve/trap on the bottom of the fuel tank. I have
replaced the O-ring (p/n 8-27-02aL) on top of the fuel trap (1.25in), but
fuel now seems to come out of the valve itself. Hugh is offering a new
valve/trap for $100, but is not able to sell me parts to repair the valve
itself, as he gets them fully assembled. Question is, is there another
0-ring in the valve, and what size should I get before disassembling the
valve and trying to rebuild it ?. By the way my fuel lever can fully rotate
360 deg from inside the car. I believe that its only supposed to go 180 deg
from OFF-ON-RESERVE.
 
T

tommyintpa@aol.com

Guest
<font FACE="arial,helvetica"><font SIZE="3" FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Calisto MT" LANG="0">I replaced mine, that's one part that can fail with the car in the garage. I
don't want to find that I have fuel in the bilge buy turning the key.

Tommy in Tampa Red 67 Corky (with new fuel tap) White 64</font>
 
M

Michael Echemann

Guest
Bill is absolutely correct. To bypass this valve or repair an old tap is an
unwise choice. Actually this is not a bad part to have a spare in case Huge
is out just when you need one.
Mike


----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Connelly <billiam@erols.com>

> One word: BOOOOM!
>
>
> Unless you are the managing director of an engineering unit, the advised
> course of action is to bite that C-Note bullet, call Hugh and just replace
a
> leaking fuel tap unit. This is absolutely NOT where you want to
> skimp...doubly so if you happen to have an early model Amphi with the
heater
> under the gas tank.
 
M

Moses, Scott, Civ

Guest
I removed mine for the same reason. There is a thick gasket inside the valve
body that goes bad and allows the fuel to leak. I connected a hose directly
to the threads on the bottom of the tank.

Scott Moses..
 
B

Bill Connelly

Guest
One word: BOOOOM!

Behind the round on-off-reserve selector plate that held in place by a
circlip type affair, there is a thick circular three-holed circular fiber
flow-director inside of your tap that is probably shot...either dried or
cracked or warped. I know of no sources for replacements of this single
critical doohicky, and it ain't exactly something you should try whipping up
on the kitchen table. Tolerances and materials must be perfect or whatever
you come up with will leak, with potentially deadly consequences. From the
fact that your selector can rotate 360 degrees instead of the normal 180, it
might be surmised that other problems might exist in your fuel tap...perhaps
the result of a previous owner's attempt to "repair" the tap. Just another
great reason to lose it now.

Unless you are the managing director of an engineering unit, the advised
course of action is to bite that C-Note bullet, call Hugh and just replace a
leaking fuel tap unit. This is absolutely NOT where you want to
skimp...doubly so if you happen to have an early model Amphi with the heater
under the gas tank. Mess around here and you might cap off a pleasant
afternoon's boating by suddenly finding yourself in the middle of an orange
fireball heard several zip codes away. So put away that duct tape now...

~Bilgemaster~

> I have a leaking fuel valve/trap on the bottom of the fuel tank. I have
> replaced the O-ring (p/n 8-27-02aL) on top of the fuel trap (1.25in), but
> fuel now seems to come out of the valve itself. Hugh is offering a new
> valve/trap for $100, but is not able to sell me parts to repair the valve
> itself, as he gets them fully assembled. Question is, is there another
> 0-ring in the valve, and what size should I get before disassembling the
> valve and trying to rebuild it ?. By the way my fuel lever can fully
rotate
> 360 deg from inside the car. I believe that its only supposed to go 180
deg
> from OFF-ON-RESERVE.
>
 
P

psenior01@aol.com

Guest
I have a leaking fuel valve/trap on the bottom of the fuel tank. I have
replaced the O-ring (p/n 8-27-02aL) on top of the fuel trap (1.25in), but
fuel now seems to come out of the valve itself. Hugh is offering a new
valve/trap for $100, but is not able to sell me parts to repair the valve
itself, as he gets them fully assembled. Question is, is there another
0-ring in the valve, and what size should I get before disassembling the
valve and trying to rebuild it ?. By the way my fuel lever can fully rotate
360 deg from inside the car. I believe that its only supposed to go 180 deg
from OFF-ON-RESERVE.

Thanks in advance
Paul Senior
 
R

Ren? Pohl

Guest
Never touch the valve as long as it is dry! They start to leak when they are
turned once.

After much trouble I simply dumped the whole tap unit! There are repairing
kits available here in Germany (you can get every size of these three holes
gaskets on vintage car markets) but the repair just lasted for a year or so.
Tried a brand new tap with similar effect.
Some German Club members use valves from motorcycles, but I gave up all
hopes and replaced it with an electro magnetic valve directly connected at
the tank. Most of the Amphicars have an additional magnetic valve anyway. So
what is the manual valve good for?
The idea to have a reserve fuel is a bit simple minded in my eyes, your
clock says early enough when it is time to refill the tank. And 47 litres
are 47 litres with or without reserve.
But if you dump the valve take care of the fitting. With the valve comes off
the little pipe through the fitting hole which give you the imagination of a
reserve (if you need it hardly one time after years of not using you will
find out, that it won?t work because of water or dirt on the bottom of the
tank). On the fitting nut you have to weld a fitting for the petrol tube on
the lower end and inside you will have to mount a dirt filter which goes
through the tiny fitting hole of the tank. Those can be found again on
motorcycles.
Further you need to add a paper filter in the fuel line. I highly recommend
to use an electric fuelpump in addition to the mechanical one. Why? Because
then you get petrol into the carburetor BEFORE the first engine turn, that
means the engine starts much easier and earlier. Also I?ve seen Amphicars
stopped on road because the rubber diaphragma from the mechanical pump
failed from one moment to the other. I don?t want to experience that in the
water.
If you are afraid of blow ups there are two more chances to get on fire! One
is the tankinlet rubber, which usually always leaks as well (never fill the
tank up to the bottom!) and second is the carburetor. When you park the
Amphicar with the engine hot, the petrol in the carb starts to boil. The
steam pressure pushes out the petrol up the accelerating pipe so it drops on
the shut accelerating flap. This thing is astonishing tied when shut so the
petrol does not drop further down into the inlet manifold, but finds it way
through the flaps shafts to the outside of the carb. There it will drop on
the hot exhaust manifold and fills your car with a deadly mixture of gas and
oxygene.
Happy driving,

Ren?


----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Echemann <echemike@earthlink.net>
To: <amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: [amphicar-lovers] Fuel Trap Question


> Bill is absolutely correct. To bypass this valve or repair an old tap is
an
> unwise choice. Actually this is not a bad part to have a spare in case
Huge
> is out just when you need one.
> Mike
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bill Connelly <billiam@erols.com>
>
> > One word: BOOOOM!
> >
> >
> > Unless you are the managing director of an engineering unit, the advised
> > course of action is to bite that C-Note bullet, call Hugh and just
replace
> a
> > leaking fuel tap unit. This is absolutely NOT where you want to
> > skimp...doubly so if you happen to have an early model Amphi with the
> heater
> > under the gas tank.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
 

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