Fuel lines etc.

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Bihari, James

<table>A couple of notes perhaps too late to be relevent:

A couple years ago when I put in stainless steel brake lines I also did put in a stainless steel fuel line and
have had no problems. Got them from Inline Tubing (I think at inlinetubing.com or something)

We did remove the transmission without removing the engine in a manner similar to what Mike Israel described a week back. We had used a couple of heavy boards across the rear deck with a threaded rod/bolt up through a hole in the the boards and a chain attached to the engine lift point and that bolt, so that as you tightened the nut, the engine lifted. It worked fine. When we put the transmission back in, we first put a small piece of scrap 5/8 inch wafer board (maybe 4 inches by 20 inches) down in the hull first and slid the transmission back on top of that. It madethe transmissionjust the right height to mate with the engine We bolted the trans to the engine then we raised theboth just a tiny bit by tightening the nut on our support bolt to get enough clearance to slide the wafer board back out. It was pretty easy getting it all back together--even the rubber axel boots behaved, if you can believe that.

I found out a month ago that my front hood latches never actually went into the slots below that ridge around the trunk where they are supposed to go when latched. I don't believe that they ever did when the car was new. It was just the friction of the "deadbolt" part of the latches that pokes out whenever you latch it against the front lip of the trunk kept the trunk from opening. A month back, after latching, I pulled up on the hood harder than I usually did and found to my surprise that the trunk still opened when latched. My Dad made fairly thick (perhap 5/8" thick) aluminum spacers under the latches to get the latch low enough to go into those slots. I don't think the rubber molding from Gordon's is that much thicker than original so I don't see how the latches could have gone into the slots before I bought it--it would have neededmaybe 5 of those original latch spacers (like I found on the rear deck latch) to function properly. Glad the hood never tried to pop open when driving, though there is that springy safety latch thing as a backup. By the way, the front edge of my hood is getting rust bubbles under the 2 year old paint. I never put the aluminum V trim back on thefront of the hoodafter paintingthough I'm not sure that would helped. Any rust prevention advice for the front hood?


Robert Vondracek

I had exactly the same experience with the catches on the hood of a car I had.
I was shocked when I pulled up hard to have the hood release as expected. But
then I discovered the catches were in the locked position.

There are many people that I would not be able to face if I had that DF. A DA
(dumb ass) is for minor screw-ups. But a broken windshield and a mangled front
deck lid would definitely be a DF! One that would not be well deserved.

All Things Amphicar & Trailer
Robert Vondracek