T
tommyintpa@aol.com
Guest
Hi, This will take about four hours. I installed a new clutch up against a
resurfaced fly wheel and it shuddered so bad it was UNDRIVABLE. So with the
advice of all those who posted about this problem this is what I did. After
you jack Amphi up, remove the rear tires and pull the drive shafts and stuff
a clean rag into the double lip seals. Remove the shift linkage, unbolt the
mounts and raise the motor with the transmission attached, about a 1/2" off
the transmission mounts. I did this with a board that ran from the front to
back with an eye bolt and an 8" turn buckle. I did not remove the motor cover
or even the air filter. remove the four bolts that attach the transmission to
the bell housing NOW get a piece of vinyl and cover the area forward of the
transmission. Pull it out and sit it on the vinyl, it is gonna leak some gear
oil but the vinyl fabric will contain it. If you drain your transmission into
the bilge before you remove it you have a lot of oil to clean - so don't do
that. Lift the transmission out drain it and REPLACE the drain plug so you
don't have to do your contortionist routine to replace it later. If your
double lip seals are over two years old call Hugh and get new ones from them.
OK here we go, look at your clutch you see three nuts with bendable retainers
you need to gently bend down. Take a socket and put an extension into it, use
it like a nut runner and tighten the three nuts tell they are finger tip
tight. There is a ring in the center that the throw out bearing presses
against. As you tightened those you nuts you saw it move toward you. You need
to measure the distance from the top of the ring to the clutch in the three
places between the arms that hold the ring, you can use anything from a
combination square to a Vernier Caliper. Find the closest point and loosen
two nuts to lower that part of the ring 1/16" Now use that distance as a
benchmark and set the other two locations to that same distance. You just
need to set them to the same distance. Bend up the retainers recheck to see
that the distances are the same, if they are, do a little Amphi dance. You
can put this back together, if the transmission won't go all the way in you
may need to lift the motor a little more. Put the drive shafts in and fill it
with AMSOIL that you order using the clubs customer number 508472. I think
using that number pays for the clubs web page at no cost to you. You REAL
Amphi guys please review this and tell us if this is not correct. I don't
type so good but I also found out how change your drive shafts in less than
45 minutes for both. That will be next post. Good luck and smooth shifting,
Tommy in Tampa
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
resurfaced fly wheel and it shuddered so bad it was UNDRIVABLE. So with the
advice of all those who posted about this problem this is what I did. After
you jack Amphi up, remove the rear tires and pull the drive shafts and stuff
a clean rag into the double lip seals. Remove the shift linkage, unbolt the
mounts and raise the motor with the transmission attached, about a 1/2" off
the transmission mounts. I did this with a board that ran from the front to
back with an eye bolt and an 8" turn buckle. I did not remove the motor cover
or even the air filter. remove the four bolts that attach the transmission to
the bell housing NOW get a piece of vinyl and cover the area forward of the
transmission. Pull it out and sit it on the vinyl, it is gonna leak some gear
oil but the vinyl fabric will contain it. If you drain your transmission into
the bilge before you remove it you have a lot of oil to clean - so don't do
that. Lift the transmission out drain it and REPLACE the drain plug so you
don't have to do your contortionist routine to replace it later. If your
double lip seals are over two years old call Hugh and get new ones from them.
OK here we go, look at your clutch you see three nuts with bendable retainers
you need to gently bend down. Take a socket and put an extension into it, use
it like a nut runner and tighten the three nuts tell they are finger tip
tight. There is a ring in the center that the throw out bearing presses
against. As you tightened those you nuts you saw it move toward you. You need
to measure the distance from the top of the ring to the clutch in the three
places between the arms that hold the ring, you can use anything from a
combination square to a Vernier Caliper. Find the closest point and loosen
two nuts to lower that part of the ring 1/16" Now use that distance as a
benchmark and set the other two locations to that same distance. You just
need to set them to the same distance. Bend up the retainers recheck to see
that the distances are the same, if they are, do a little Amphi dance. You
can put this back together, if the transmission won't go all the way in you
may need to lift the motor a little more. Put the drive shafts in and fill it
with AMSOIL that you order using the clubs customer number 508472. I think
using that number pays for the clubs web page at no cost to you. You REAL
Amphi guys please review this and tell us if this is not correct. I don't
type so good but I also found out how change your drive shafts in less than
45 minutes for both. That will be next post. Good luck and smooth shifting,
Tommy in Tampa
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
