Came out of the booth yesterday. been a long slow road to get here. I'm going to store it this winter as I'm relocating from Alaska to Oregon this winter. Once I'm settled in down there I'll be towing it down next summer. Planning to do the assembly with my dad.
I still love the point where it all is the same color. Next is the first time you start it. I have 4 I'm doing now at different stages of progess (2 in disassembly, one bare metal, one just running installing suspention).
This one I just cleaned it up a little, certainly not a top level resto, but presentable.
She looks great Craig! How many times do you plan on sanding and buffing it? It's hard to tell, but I can't see much orange peel. Nothing beats good prepwork!
Thanks John... Wish I could take credit for the body work but I can't. I took the car apart back in 03 or so and gave up on my ever getting the rust repair done myself. I relocated twice and went through a divorce but came through it all without loosing the car. I broke down and paid a good shop here in Fairbanks to take it on. The did a number of cars for a local club and came highly recommended. I had planned to leave the main body in primer and bring it back for final color when I got most of teh undercarage and interior done but changed my mine and figured it would go faster if I had them finish it. If I ding the paint I'll have it touched up after it's running. Hope I don't regrete that choice. It's Viper red... Next is the underside paint. Then I need to get it moved to Oregon and put back together. Hopfully I'll be alot closer to actually making one of those Celina trips I keep promising myself I'll do one day.
At least thru all the strife you've ben thru, you still have the car and a beautiful redhead beside you to enjoy it with! Life is good! :dft003:
What I do is to completely finish and paint the inside of the hull first, leaving the outside in final prime so any damage I may do while assembling can be fixed cheaply and quickly before squirting the color outside (painting all panels like doors, hood & engine cover at the same time for perfect color match). I then assemble the car's drive train and interior mechanisims. I have had great success with this method on the last 4 I have done. Something about shiny new paint that attracts scratches!
We recently finished a 1930 Baby Bugatti for a well known (you'd know his name for sure) car guy. Bugatti produced 499 of these this half sized baby version of the 1928 Bugatti 35B racer All hand done aluminum body and frame. It's electric driven with wooden brakes to stop. The detail is amazing, but that what you'd expect from a real Bugatti.
While assembling an already painted body as I'm doing now (painted before I got it) I use TONS of high quality masking tape and blankets for protection of areas that are vulerable like edges and anywhere I may be near with parts or tools.
All Masking tape is NOT the same! Cheap tape left in place more than a week or 2 attach itself to new paint causing damage to the finish and leaving behind difficult to remove adhesive. The $ difference between cheap and good tape is well worth the extra money. Cheap tools give cheap results. Look at the specs on the tape for adhesion time. It should tell you how long it can be left in place without damage. Good tape also will give you a far better edge when painting without peeling the new paint upon removal.
Great info! Thanks John... Love the baby Bugatti! There's a local car guy in Fairbanks who has done really well in teh hotel business. Just opened up a car museum on his hotel property. I spent four hours getting a personal tour the other day...
Craig ,hopefully you will be able to do a road trip bringing your beautiful red Amphi. You are welcome to "camp" here. You should just plan on doing it. That way you will really be motivated to get finished. Looks really really good. When do we get pics of the red head? Later Dave the Wave