B
Bill Connelly
Guest
QUESTION:
The studs and nuts are VERY rusty, and I am being warned of stipping and
breaking them. What have you guys done to fix this? Any tips on removinng
these
nuts from the studs without harming poor amphi?
Chris Skeeles
'63 Red (loud and smelly) "Chaos"
===============
Several years ago I had a problem similar to yours. I'd have to agree with a
combination of earlier posted suggestions from The Cap'n and David Chapman.
It's much easier to get at that J pipe flange's three retaining nuts with
the manifold off and the whole assembly in a table vise. Removing the
manifold is relatively easy. Start by removing whatever retaining nuts you
can do easily and soak any stubborn ones with a little Liquid Wrench for a
few hours or overnight. If that doesn't budge them, try tapping the nuts
lightly with a drift. Frankly, I had little problem removing most of the
manifold nuts...It was the J pipe flange nuts that were the bears. You'll
probably want to take a blowtorch to these.
The question you might want to ask yourself is WHY did it break off at the
flange like that? Sure, sh*t happens, and these cars all have about 35
years on them and you can expect this sort of thing, but still, when you
replace the J pipe, you might want to make sure that it is lined up "just
so" with the muffler to avoid any unnecessary stress on it. A few minor
adjustments at the muffler retaining arm may be in order.
By the way, the "copper grease" David mentioned in his post goes by the
moniker "anti-seize grease" on these shores and comes in little tubes at
most automotive supplies joints. It's also good for spark plug threads (in
case you find a pack of four nice ones that have been rattling around in the
bilge with Jimmy Hoffa's cufflinks since '68 or so).
~Bilgemaster~
The studs and nuts are VERY rusty, and I am being warned of stipping and
breaking them. What have you guys done to fix this? Any tips on removinng
these
nuts from the studs without harming poor amphi?
Chris Skeeles
'63 Red (loud and smelly) "Chaos"
===============
Several years ago I had a problem similar to yours. I'd have to agree with a
combination of earlier posted suggestions from The Cap'n and David Chapman.
It's much easier to get at that J pipe flange's three retaining nuts with
the manifold off and the whole assembly in a table vise. Removing the
manifold is relatively easy. Start by removing whatever retaining nuts you
can do easily and soak any stubborn ones with a little Liquid Wrench for a
few hours or overnight. If that doesn't budge them, try tapping the nuts
lightly with a drift. Frankly, I had little problem removing most of the
manifold nuts...It was the J pipe flange nuts that were the bears. You'll
probably want to take a blowtorch to these.
The question you might want to ask yourself is WHY did it break off at the
flange like that? Sure, sh*t happens, and these cars all have about 35
years on them and you can expect this sort of thing, but still, when you
replace the J pipe, you might want to make sure that it is lined up "just
so" with the muffler to avoid any unnecessary stress on it. A few minor
adjustments at the muffler retaining arm may be in order.
By the way, the "copper grease" David mentioned in his post goes by the
moniker "anti-seize grease" on these shores and comes in little tubes at
most automotive supplies joints. It's also good for spark plug threads (in
case you find a pack of four nice ones that have been rattling around in the
bilge with Jimmy Hoffa's cufflinks since '68 or so).
~Bilgemaster~