Exhaust Question

[Ed Price]

Most every outboard boat engine buries its exhaust underwater. Many inboard
boat engines use sea-water cooling (where water is drawn in, cools the
engine, is then injected into the exhaust system, and discharged just above
or below the waterline. The Amphi is unusual, in that it does not mix the
exhaust with the flotation water in any way. (OK, the exhaust is only a foot
or so above the water, but its still not IN the water.

Does anyone know how this is looked at by environmentalists and/or the legal
authorities? Does this make Amphi a "cleaner" boat than all other
powerboats? Does this give Amphis a better justification to use "sensitive"
bodies of water, like reservoirs or other protected habitats?


Ed Price
El Cajon, CA USA
WB6WSN
1961 Amphicar 770
1987 MB 420SEL

 

[tpls63]

I think with boats the exhaust under the water is also their muffler which they otherwise don't have and we do. Also we have radiators that boats typically don't because we are amphibious so we don't need the sea water for cooling. I don't really think there's any 'green' advantage to one over the other except maybe with respect to outboards which seem to always have an oily film on the water around them. We dump our oily water on land upon leaving the water and pulling the plug.

Most every outboard boat engine buries its exhaust underwater. Many inboard
boat engines use sea-water cooling (where water is drawn in, cools the
engine, is then injected into the exhaust system, and discharged just above
or below the waterline. The Amphi is unusual, in that it does not mix the
exhaust with the flotation water in any way. (OK, the exhaust is only a foot
or so above the water, but its still not IN the water.

Does anyone know how this is looked at by environmentalists and/or the legal
authorities? Does this make Amphi a "cleaner" boat than all other
powerboats? Does this give Amphis a better justification to use "sensitive"
bodies of water, like reservoirs or other protected habitats?


Ed Price
El Cajon, CA USA
WB6WSN
1961 Amphicar 770
1987 MB 420SEL

 

[DavidC]

Ø Does anyone know how this is looked at by environmentalists and/or the
legal



What is important is when the car is near the river bank or jetty it’s not
surrounded by a visible sheen of oil. That causes a really negative
perception about Amphicar and negates all the work we do promoting the fact
“the dirty bits are on the inside”.

So, after greasing axles and swing arms wipe them clean, change to the
Lemforder rod ends which removes the need to grease 8 points, keep the
underside wipe cleanable – another reason why a smooth paint surface – as
was used originally – is better than stone chip or similar coatings.

Most important never pull the bilge plug out on a slipway (wait until you
are a few miles down the road !)

In Europe powered boats are separated to electric, which is considered good
and green and sometimes allowed on reservoirs, or petrol / diesel powered
which are considered bad.

David C

 

[azpaul50]

oh-oh.... don't pull plug on boat ramp? I say watch the ducks. If they look okay with no oil coat, I'm doing better than BP! - azpaul aka the "brown" environmentalist group.



To: azpaul50@hotmail.com
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20798] Exhaust Question
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 10:01:44 -0400
From:




Ø Does anyone know how this is looked at by environmentalists and/or the
legal



What is important is when the car is near the river bank or jetty it’s not
surrounded by a visible sheen of oil. That causes a really negative
perception about Amphicar and negates all the work we do promoting the fact
“the dirty bits are on the inside”.

So, after greasing axles and swing arms wipe them clean, change to the
Lemforder rod ends which removes the need to grease 8 points, keep the
underside wipe cleanable – another reason why a smooth paint surface – as
was used originally – is better than stone chip or similar coatings.

Most important never pull the bilge plug out on a slipway (wait until you
are a few miles down the road !)

In Europe powered boats are separated to electric, which is considered good
and green and sometimes allowed on reservoirs, or petrol / diesel powered
which are considered bad.

David C



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[mike_israel]

Latest Info From Gordon Imports. Sign me up!

From:Jeani Gordon <jeanig@gordonimports.com>
...
View ContactTo:shelleec@gordonimports.com
MUFFLER UPDATE

MUFFLER UPDATE​

​

​

Hi Amphi Owners,

There’s been a lot of discussion about mufflers. Gordon Imports, Inc. will introduce the long awaited, Amphicar, stainless steel muffler in August/September. As with all our new developments, you can expect the same exceptional pricing and quality. Stay tuned and watch for update announcements over the coming weeks.

 

[Midwest Amphicar]

I wonder, will it come with a handmade picture of the part you need to get and make from hardware store:005:?

 

[webtoes64]

I used Amsoil synthetic grease inside my dust caps on the front wheel cylinders some years back and it has not seemed to affect the rubber. Has anyone else tried this and had a similar or otherwise bad experience?

Steve B
'64 Red

 

[dougn200]

Robert
While amsoil is a great product and I run it in my xmission I think that it pushes past the seals between the water and land xmission where the old style fluid is a higher density and will not do that as easily

Doug Parsons
937-609-1591
1536 East Fourth St
Dayton, Ohio 45403

Dougparsons@ameritech.net

On Jun 29, 2010, at 1:41 PM, dutchamphi <> wrote:

> I was wondering if this is the AMSOIL gear lube suitable for the transmission.
> AMSOIL Marine Gear Lube
> Please let me know,
> Robert de Vries
>
>

 

[gzink]

I second what David says. Many years ago I saw this posted by David and took his advice and have never had the frozen locked up brakes or cylinders. For 7-8 years I have used silicone fluid and each time I have a drum off I add a little of the Red grease.
thanks for the advice,
Greg Z. (Michigan)

--- On Mon, 6/28/10, DavidC <> wrote:


From: DavidC <>
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20798] Exhaust Question
To: g_zink_us@yahoo.com
Date: Monday, June 28, 2010, 6:33 PM







Yes, you need red rubber brake grease (google will find) and you peel
back the dust cap and fill the area between the piston and the cap.



Been doing that in my Amphicar for more than 20 years, still have original
cylinders and pistons, I change the rubbers cup seals every 7 years or so -
they are the parts that wear. Silicone brake fluid as well, makes system
more reliable and safer.



Conventional brake fluid absorbs water, it doesn't last long in Amphicar,
brake fluid should never be more than 1% water, in Amphicar after a few
months it can be up to 5%, it causes corrosion and more importantly can
cause loss of brakes due to vapour lock. Silicone fluid repels water and so
removes this problem



David C





From: tazman [mailto:]
Sent: 28 June 2010 18:11
To: david@manbus.com
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20798] Exhaust Question



This was a prior discussion. Putting brake grease in the ends of wheels
cylinders. Anyone actually try this and does it work well in preventing
the pistons from seizing in the bores?? I have sleeved cylinders and
they feel like some pistons are sticking. Any comments? Was the product
recommended a red brake grease of some type if I recall? Thanks Bad
Luck Chuck Chuck

 

[jfriese]

This is more than a bit off topic for an exhaust posting but for what it's worth, I have brass sleeved wheel cylinders in both my Amphicars and had lots of trouble with the pistons corroding and binding up in the cylinders. Even the red grease was only mildly successful for me. Two years ago I had stainless steel brake pistons made by a local machine shop that are perfect copies of the originals. I then installed them with Gordon's rubber seals, David's red grease and dust caps that fit really tight on the smaller front cylinders. I found those dust caps at White Post. I then filled the system with silicon brake fluid and have had no trouble at all with the brakes since then. I was thinking of having the stainless pistons reproduced in quantities for sale but I always test the products that I sell for quite awhile before moving ahead and consider this system still in testing. It seems that those ATE pistons have not always been made of the same stuff. Mine were made of some cheap pot metal but others I've seen look more like finished aluminum. All my brakes are working fine now and the system doesn't leak at all.

John Friese
67 White
67 Red

 

[tazman]

Thanks for the info John, I will overhaul my system again soon and
start using the red grease. I have stainless sleeves as well but system
does not seem to be working well. I would be interested in the ss
pistons as well after your testing is done. Chuck