Engine Removal

  • Thread starter wick68355@aol.com
  • Start date
W

wick68355@aol.com

Guest
I just purchased an engine hoist from a local farm store. I plan on removing
the engine from the Amphicar this week so I can have all winter to rebuild it.
Before I start do any of you have any secrets or hints you wish to share
with me?
Tim Wick
smokin' 63


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
C

capon23@aol.com

Guest
Tim, easy to pull... not to easy to put in!!! separate the fan shroud and
push it forward, then pull the radiator out... easier than taking the whole
thing out in one shot... good luck, john cigarguy
 
D

Daniel & Kathy Gibson

Guest
Don't forget to remove the plate behind the rear seat back. I did, and
now it is bent!!

wick68355@aol.com wrote:
>
> I just purchased an engine hoist from a local farm store. I plan on removing
> the engine from the Amphicar this week so I can have all winter to rebuild it.
> Before I start do any of you have any secrets or hints you wish to share
> with me?
> Tim Wick
> smokin' 63
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> Archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> For more information about this List and other available services
> visit:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> amphicar770@yahoo.com
> This list is provided as a free service. Please support our sponsors at:
> http://www.growerflower.com/default.asp?id=41762
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

--

Daniel and Kathy Gibson
http://www.katestrackshack.com
"Kate's Track Shack -Your Internet Home For Inexpensive 8-tracks!!"
AND...
http://drnooseandjambone.com
"DrNoose And Jambone - Do It To The Optigan!"
 
W

WB6WSN

Guest
----- Original Message -----
From: wick68355@aol.com
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 4:03 PM
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] engine removal


I just purchased an engine hoist from a local farm store. I plan on removing
the engine from the Amphicar this week so I can have all winter to rebuild it.
Before I start do any of you have any secrets or hints you wish to share
with me?
Tim Wick
smokin' 63


I did my pull without a load-leveler. Never again. You can get a cheap one at
Harbor Freight for about $20, and it's well worth it. You will need to shift the
angle of the engine (I pulled the engine & differential & both transmissions as
a single unit), first, lifting level, then gradually elevating the fan end of
the engine as you raise and move the engine assembly rearward a few inches at a
time. You have to lift the engine fairly high to clear the oil pan over the rear
body lip. I was uncomfortable with the engine that high, but I still had no
problems. Later thought showed me that I could have used a floor jack to lift
the Amphi front end, thereby lowering the rear body lip quite a bit.

Prior to the pull, I had stripped out the entire water & oil radiators and
shrouds and removed the carburetor. The only screw-up was that I forgot to
disconnect the clutch cable from the little bracket at the edge of the water
transmission. I didn't notice it until I saw the Amphi body raising slightly as
I lifted the engine! I damaged the cable beyond repair.


Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
A

Al Heath

Guest
>> Ed from El Cajon wrote:
>>The only screw-up was that I forgot to disconnect the clutch cable from
the little bracket >>at the edge of the water transmission.

I'll add that once I forgot I forgot the temperature sending unit wire,
however that wire breaks loose pretty easily. So, double and tripple check
(would that be "hans trippel" check?) all the disconnections before
pulling. And as Dan pointed out, removing that little plate allows the
valve cover just bit more clearance, so don't forget that either. I have a
couple pictures on my "aboat2" web site showing how steep of an angle the
dive is to get things to clear both ends.

PS. Went out swimming this past weekend. Nice temp in the low 80's. Hope
the weather is as nice two weekends from now for our DFW swim-in.

Al
 
A

a_colo_native

Guest
> Before I start do any of you have any secrets or hints you wish to
> share with me?

Tim,

You already have the scoop about gettin' it out. But going in has
it's issues too. I did my drive train as a unit. One IMPORTANT thing
to remember is if you remove the shift rods (from shifter to trans)
from the car, they have to go in BEFORE re-installing the drive
train. The only other way is to cut and weld 'em, not good.

I have never had much need for a leveler, I have always had good luck
manually positioning it. This is just my experience, you can decide
for yourself. They are cheap, so it's not a big deal. I'll post a pic
in the files section of when we stabbed mine in to help with the
visuals.

John

WANTED - Horn assy / L Headlight trim / Clock (working or not, just
presentable)
 
J

John Friese

Guest
Having pulled an engine 6 times in a 2 week period to do various tests
on clutch parts, I've become rather familiar with the process of
pulling the engine and leaving the transmission in the car. Here's
the basic plan:

Disconnect one battery cable.
Drain water from radiator.
Remove the engine cover.
Remove the small plate above the valve cover.
Remove the fan blades. (A small wrench and hand is helpful)
Disconnect the water hoses at the water pump end.
Disconnect the oil cooling lines by removing the adapter from under
the oil filter.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the radiator brackets to the uprights.
Lift radiator assembly out.
Disconnect fuel line, heater lines, linkages etc.
Remove the two nuts that fasten the motor mount bracket to the mounts.
Connect a chain to the two lifting rings and attach to engine hoist.
Lift engine up a couple of inches.
Remove the engine mounting bracket from the engine.
(IMPORTANT) Insert a block of wood under the transmission and the
floor that will keep the tranny from dropping low when the engine is out.
Let the engine down slightly to apply some pressure to the wood block
under the transmission.
Remove the 4 bolts that connect the transmission to the bell housing.
Slide the engine back to remove it from the transmission.
As you slide the engine back, raise the lift a little bit at a time so
the engine clears the body.
You now have the engine out.
ENJOY

To reinstall:
Lower the engine down and forward while guiding the transmision shaft
into the engine.
Install the 4 bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.
Lift the engine slightly to take the weight off of the wood block
under the transmission.
Remove the block.
Install the engine mount to the face of the engine.
Lower the engine onto the mounts and reinstall nuts.
Reverse the rest of the removal steps and recheck all the connections.
Refill the radiator.
Go swimming.



John Friese
67 White
67 Red

When putting the engine back in, don't reinstall the engine mount
until the engine is in and connected to the transmission. The bracket
gets in the way of sliding the engine back and forth.





--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, wick68355@a... wrote:
> I just purchased an engine hoist from a local farm store. I plan on
removing
> the engine from the Amphicar this week so I can have all winter to
rebuild it.
> Before I start do any of you have any secrets or hints you wish to
share
> with me?
> Tim Wick
> smokin' 63
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
N

nelson625@aol.com

Guest
Ed-(with the 67 Rust Guppy)
I hope to never have to remove my engine, but your description,
especially your worthwhile and elementary suggestion to raise the front of the
car.
I'll file thie information and it will be very useful should I ever require it.
On an unrelated subject, but still Amphi related: I recently watched, as
many of you folks likely did, about a half hour film on TV (I do not remember
which channel right now, though I did record it) about the sinking of the DUKW
in Louisiana on May 1, 1999 at which time 13 of 21 souls perished. Something
thing that I noted in particular, as far as application to our craft was that
the vehicle was behaving very sluggishly and the operator had no idea why, as
the stern became lower until the water rushed in over the transom. Had they
had an alarm to alert the operator to the presence of the water, he at least
would have known much earlier that something serious was amiss. It all happened
in about 7 minutes, I believe, from the time he entered the water to the time
of sinking and the actual sinking only took about 30 seconds once the transom
went under. I have 2 bilge pumps, though they have not been needed at all in
over 3 years and only get used IF I test them by putting water in with a hose on
land.. One pump, however, is automatic with a pilot light that is wired to
come on if the pump comes on, so that IF I see that it has come on, I can switch
on the 2nd pump. I also have the discharge tubes pointed up at an angle which
is visable in my rear view mirror - again IF I were to be watching! However,
a worthwhile addition would be a water alarm - i.e. a horn or buzzer to alert
me to the ingress of an unacceptable level of water before it made its
presence known by the engine stalling or the vessel actually starting to go
under. I
have some recollection of one of our members at Celina 3 or 4 years ago, I
believe, having some sort of device, purchased I think at Radio Shack, though I
am not certain. He had converted it to serve this very purpose. If this is so,
or if someone has a straight forward suggestion of how to accomplish this, I
think it would be well to share it. My principal plan at the moment is to use
a normal float switch intended for a bilge pump or a sump pump to activate
such an alarm, but, as I said, I think one of our members had come up with a
nifty device which did the trick easily and very nicely. I only joined the
Amphicar Lovers this past spring, and perhaps this subject has been discussed or
covered previously. If so, would someone please direct me to the information or
if
simple enough e-mail me the info on or off line.
Victor "Splash" Nelson with the 1967 Aqua "Split Personality"
near Daytona


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
J

John Friese

Guest
Some time ago, I found an electronic water detector/alarm that works
great with Amphicars. They are battery powered and last a whole
season on a set of batteries. Installation simply requires mounting
the unit and the pickup with double stick tape. That's it, five
minutes and you're done. I put them on Ebay a couple of times but only
sold a few of them, so I figured not too many people were interested.
They only cost about $20 and seem like very cheap insurance. I have
them on both my Amphicars. I still have some in stock so let me know
if you want one.

John Friese (jfriese at mindspring.com)

Red 67
White 67



--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, nelson625@a... wrote:
> Ed-(with the 67 Rust Guppy)
> I hope to never have to remove my engine, but your description,
> especially your worthwhile and elementary suggestion to raise the
front of the car.
> I'll file thie information and it will be very useful should I ever
require it.
> On an unrelated subject, but still Amphi related: I recently
watched, as
> many of you folks likely did, about a half hour film on TV (I do not
remember
> which channel right now, though I did record it) about the sinking
of the DUKW
> in Louisiana on May 1, 1999 at which time 13 of 21 souls perished.
Something
> thing that I noted in particular, as far as application to our craft
was that
> the vehicle was behaving very sluggishly and the operator had no
idea why, as
> the stern became lower until the water rushed in over the transom.
Had they
> had an alarm to alert the operator to the presence of the water, he
at least
> would have known much earlier that something serious was amiss. It
all happened
> in about 7 minutes, I believe, from the time he entered the water to
the time
> of sinking and the actual sinking only took about 30 seconds once
the transom
> went under. I have 2 bilge pumps, though they have not been needed
at all in
> over 3 years and only get used IF I test them by putting water in
with a hose on
> land.. One pump, however, is automatic with a pilot light that is
wired to
> come on if the pump comes on, so that IF I see that it has come on,
I can switch
> on the 2nd pump. I also have the discharge tubes pointed up at an
angle which
> is visable in my rear view mirror - again IF I were to be watching!
However,
> a worthwhile addition would be a water alarm - i.e. a horn or buzzer
to alert
> me to the ingress of an unacceptable level of water before it made its
> presence known by the engine stalling or the vessel actually
starting to go under. I
> have some recollection of one of our members at Celina 3 or 4 years
ago, I
> believe, having some sort of device, purchased I think at Radio
Shack, though I
> am not certain. He had converted it to serve this very purpose. If
this is so,
> or if someone has a straight forward suggestion of how to accomplish
this, I
> think it would be well to share it. My principal plan at the moment
is to use
> a normal float switch intended for a bilge pump or a sump pump to
activate
> such an alarm, but, as I said, I think one of our members had come
up with a
> nifty device which did the trick easily and very nicely. I only
joined the
> Amphicar Lovers this past spring, and perhaps this subject has been
discussed or
> covered previously. If so, would someone please direct me to the
information or if
> simple enough e-mail me the info on or off line.
> Victor "Splash" Nelson with the 1967 Aqua "Split
Personality"
> near Daytona
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
G

gtpeterp

Guest
Having finally purchased both an engine stand and engine lift, I am in
the process of pulling the motor out of my car. Wish me luck, and I'll
try and take some good photos of the process.

Peter
 
S

steve reich

Guest
<table>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="921213204-07112005">Peter-</span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="921213204-07112005"></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="921213204-07112005">Getting the engine out is easy. Putting it back in is the hard part. However, I did it with a little help from my wife. So, never fear, it will turn out to be another Amphi experience that you'll always remember.</span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="921213204-07112005"></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="921213204-07112005">-Steve</span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="921213204-07112005"></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="921213204-07112005">'64 red (AMPHICR)</span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="921213204-07112005">'64 red (I SWIM 2)</span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="921213204-07112005">Del Mar, Ca</span></font>
 
G

gtpeterp

Guest
So long as its the "Wow, that wasn't so bad after all" always
remember, as opposed to the "You see this scar?!" always remember, i'm
good.

Peter

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "steve reich"
<steve.reich@s...> wrote:
>
> Peter-
>
> Getting the engine out is easy. Putting it back in is the hard part.
> However, I did it with a little help from my wife. So, never fear,
it will
> turn out to be another Amphi experience that you'll always remember.
>
> -Steve
>
> '64 red (AMPHICR)
> '64 red (I SWIM 2)
> Del Mar, Ca
>
 
A

a_colo_native

Guest
--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "gtpeterp" <yahoo@p...>
wrote:
> Having finally purchased both an engine stand and engine lift, I
am in
> the process of pulling the motor out of my car. Wish me luck, and
I'll
> try and take some good photos of the process.

Peter,

Are you taking the trans out too?
When going back in (with trans still in the car), the block always
seems to catch (boss that is on the side of the block), on the edge
of a reinforcement strap that runs across the engine bay holding the
rear motor mounts (the 2 below the pulley). this occurs while trying
to get that last 1" in while stabing the shaft into the trans. It's
a bit of a fight every time. Be sure your cluth is lined up properly
so the shaft will slide in. Once you get past that, it goes quickly.

John Bevins
Rocky Mountain Amphicar
 
G

gtpeterp

Guest
I was planning on leaving the trans in for the moment, for a couple of
reasons:

1. I don't really have the garage space to rebuild the engine and the
transmission at the same time.
2. I'm not sure how to remove the rear axles so I can actually pull
the transmission.
3. I've never rebuilt a transmission, so I'm a bit leary of making
this my first.

I'm sure I'm going to end up pulling it out anyway, eventually. I seem
to remember reading that someone on the list has developed a new
clutch for the car that solves the chattering problem, so that almost
a no brainer. Once my credit card stops glowing from buying engine
rebuild parts, ill think about the rest of the drivetrain.

Peter

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "a_colo_native" <news@a...> wrote:
>
> --- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "gtpeterp" <yahoo@p...>
> wrote:
> > Having finally purchased both an engine stand and engine lift, I
> am in
> > the process of pulling the motor out of my car. Wish me luck, and
> I'll
> > try and take some good photos of the process.
>
> Peter,
>
> Are you taking the trans out too?
> When going back in (with trans still in the car), the block always
> seems to catch (boss that is on the side of the block), on the edge
> of a reinforcement strap that runs across the engine bay holding the
> rear motor mounts (the 2 below the pulley). this occurs while trying
> to get that last 1" in while stabing the shaft into the trans. It's
> a bit of a fight every time. Be sure your cluth is lined up properly
> so the shaft will slide in. Once you get past that, it goes quickly.
>
> John Bevins
> Rocky Mountain Amphicar
>
 
Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
SNOWBIRD Engine front plate General Amphicar Discussion 0
Jon March Proper engine break-in General Amphicar Discussion 4
mike_israel 2-ton engine hoist for $143 General Amphicar Discussion 0
mike_israel New Search Engine on Amphicar Forums General Amphicar Discussion 2
Jon March Engine compartment - !@# manual scraping. stripping, degreasing, sanding, priming, painting General Amphicar Discussion 6
okey0 multiple questions about re-assembly of the 1147 engine General Amphicar Discussion 2
P cautionary tale (my engine upgrade experience) General Amphicar Discussion 14
okey0 Engine OUT....how to mount on stand now? General Amphicar Discussion 9
mike_israel No Amphi content. Search engine duckduckgo.com General Amphicar Discussion 0
Jacques B. Triumph Spitfire oil pan on amphicar (Herald) engine ? General Amphicar Discussion 3
Akamphi Engine oil priming tool General Amphicar Discussion 3
Ken Chambers Entertaining engine rebuild General Amphicar Discussion 0
Akamphi Spit 1500 engine break in. General Amphicar Discussion 1
T Removing the engine, were do you split from transmission General Amphicar Discussion 2
kdroy Water in engine General Amphicar Discussion 4
AHite Possible Engine Conversion General Amphicar Discussion 8
S Pulling an engine General Amphicar Discussion 7
A engine timing and dwell General Amphicar Discussion 3
Midwest Amphicar Engines engines who needs an engine General Amphicar Discussion 4
azpaul50 Engine Cover Luggage rack General Amphicar Discussion 6
Midwest Amphicar Engine cover holes or how I spent today General Amphicar Discussion 1
B Re: Engine cooling fan General Amphicar Discussion 0
B engine cooling fan General Amphicar Discussion 2
amphicarian Engine advice General Amphicar Discussion 19
DavidC Amphicar engine in Alabama General Amphicar Discussion 0
C Best way to install engine/ transmission General Amphicar Discussion 3
A engine milage and mechnical status General Amphicar Discussion 7
K Engine compartment paint. General Amphicar Discussion 2
B SV: Re: engine and transmision - Clutch Chatter Cause?? General Amphicar Discussion 0
W engine and transmision General Amphicar Discussion 4
C engine rebuild General Amphicar Discussion 1
M Body Part (Rear Engine area) replacement General Amphicar Discussion 1
B seatbelts idea; radiator, engine and transmission for sale General Amphicar Discussion 0
D Parts help engine cover needed General Amphicar Discussion 0
C Underside hull paint and engine compartment paint General Amphicar Discussion 6
G bilge pump switch and engine breather line General Amphicar Discussion 0
W engine manifold mystery General Amphicar Discussion 7
B SV: SV: Re: Engine cooling / Fan noise General Amphicar Discussion 0
B SV: Re: Engine cooling / Fan noise General Amphicar Discussion 1
D engine personalities General Amphicar Discussion 1
W Engine cooling / Fan noise General Amphicar Discussion 6
B 1147 cc engine advice needed General Amphicar Discussion 2
D rear engine seal General Amphicar Discussion 3
J Harley engine ---Lake Ozarks next week General Amphicar Discussion 1
B Engine Dies When Hot General Amphicar Discussion 9
C Fuel Injection on a Triumph Engine General Amphicar Discussion 1
S Wankel Engine in an Amphi General Amphicar Discussion 5
S Wankel Engine General Amphicar Discussion 3
S Engine gasket sets General Amphicar Discussion 1
R rebuilt engine and tranny General Amphicar Discussion 0
Similar threads


















































Top