Engine oil

Discussion in 'General Amphicar Discussion' started by martyandcaryl@charter.net, May 8, 2001.

  1. We have just purchased a new car and want to start its life out right
    with respect to our choice of oil. We discussed using Amsoil after
    the brake in period is up. The salesman mentioned blending synthetic
    with standard, I have never heard of doing this and am uncertain.
    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Another subject I am looking for help on is that we have 6 vehicles
    that sleep outside while 5 others have garage space. Does anyone
    know where we can purchase a few of those temporary garages that go
    up over some kind of structure and is covered with plastic material?

    We can't wait to swim with Dave The Wave at the Spring Valley swim in.

    Marty & Caryl
    BUOYANT in WI
    64 Turq
     
  2. Craig Taylor
    Offline

    Craig Taylor Guest

    Marty, I can't help you much on the oil issue but thought you might be
    interested in a tent type garage I'm going to put up this summer. I
    have two friends that have them and are very happy with them. They are
    made by Cover All. 26' x 40' half dome shape with a 91/2x12 door and
    sell for $5400 up here, probubly less down south. They are very well
    made. 2" tube frame and a role up door. Here's a web site.
    http://www.coverall.net/ Hope this helps.

    Craig, Flat Lake Alaska

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    Date: Tuesday, May 8, 2001 9:27 am
    Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Engine oil

    > We have just purchased a new car and want to start its life out
    > right
    > with respect to our choice of oil. We discussed using Amsoil
    > after
    > the brake in period is up. The salesman mentioned blending
    > synthetic
    > with standard, I have never heard of doing this and am uncertain.
    > Any advice would be appreciated.
    >
    > Another subject I am looking for help on is that we have 6
    > vehicles
    > that sleep outside while 5 others have garage space. Does anyone
    > know where we can purchase a few of those temporary garages that
    > go
    > up over some kind of structure and is covered with plastic material?
    >
    > We can't wait to swim with Dave The Wave at the Spring Valley swim in.
    >
    > Marty & Caryl
    > BUOYANT in WI
    > 64 Turq
    >
    >
    >
    > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    > amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@egroups.com
    >
    >
    >
    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    >
    >
    >
     
  3. Bill Connelly
    Offline

    We have just purchased a new car and want to start its life out right
    with respect to our choice of oil. We discussed using Amsoil after
    the brake in period is up. The salesman mentioned blending synthetic
    with standard, I have never heard of doing this and am uncertain.
    Any advice would be appreciated.


    How about a blend of store-bought guacamole and pure safflower oil? Then
    you can squirt some Preparation-H into the crankcase to keep down harmful
    nodules...

    http://www.amphicar.net/amsoil
     
  4. Mike Israel
    Offline

    Mike Israel Guest

    --- martyandcaryl@charter.net wrote:
    > We have just purchased a new car and want to start
    > its life out right
    > with respect to our choice of oil. We discussed
    > using Amsoil after
    > the brake in period is up. The salesman mentioned
    > blending synthetic
    > with standard, I have never heard of doing this and
    > am uncertain.
    > Any advice would be appreciated.
    >

    Why bother blending, you will not save much money
    doing so versus pure synthetic.

    Keep in mind that the factory fill on most high $$$
    machinery (Corvette, Porsche, Ferrari) is 100%
    synthetic. (Usually Mobil 1 or Agip Synt 2000).




    __________________________________________________

    Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
    http://auctions.yahoo.com/
     
  5. B Crombie
    Offline

    B Crombie Guest

    ----- Original Message -----




    > Another subject I am looking for help on is that we have 6 vehicles
    > that sleep outside while 5 others have garage space. Does anyone
    > know where we can purchase a few of those temporary garages that go
    > up over some kind of structure and is covered with plastic material?


    Marty,
    It just so happens that I work for a greenhouse manufacturer located in
    southern Minnesota. Many of our non-grower customers use a particular model
    call the EM for a variety of storage reasons. It's an engineered, hoop
    style structure that has six foot tall straight side walls with a rounded
    roof profile. Wall to wall it measures 21'-0" x 6' increments. Most all
    Wal-Marts nationwide use a simular model with bells and whistles for plant
    sales, yet the profile is the same as the EM.
    Enough of my sales efforts! For more detailed information and a brochure,
    give our office a call at 800.852.3443.
    As far as "blending'' the two oils, I would feel comfortable draining the
    old oil then adding the synthetic. I personally would not top off with
    synthetic knowing standard oil is still in the engine. What's the
    recommended break in mileage? 500, 1000? I would play it safe and change
    it out now or at the end of the break in period. Just my 2 cents!

    Brian Crombie
    ' 64 Red (Euro-Amphi)
     
  6. www.amph.67@juno.com
    Offline

    "K" Mart sells two models without sides, $150.00 for peak roof. $175.00
    for round roof. You can add sides with construction plastic as temp
    storage. Look for that at Home Depot or Leows.
     
  7. Bill Connelly
    Offline

    > http://www.amphicar.net/amsoil

    > After reviewing the Amsoil page I see there is no real difference between
    Amsoil and Mobile-1, [snip...]


    Sorry, but the statement above is incorrect. In fact, right on the
    abovementioned page at http://www.amphicar.net/amsoil is a comparative chart
    where AMSOIL is clearly shown to be almost 3 times more effective a
    lubricant as Mobil1 as measured in a standardized Four Ball Wear Test (ASTM
    ? 4172). Mobil1 is a fine product, sure, better than most other engine
    oils, but it is NOT the best, or even close to it...AMSOIL is.

    By the above wear test and all other measurements of an engine lubricant's
    characteristics, such as its "Viscosity Index", "Flash Point", "Percentage
    of Ash" and "Volatility", AMSOIL's whole range of motor oils outperforms
    Mobil1's range hands down across the board. Sure, Mobil1 does better than
    most other products by comparison, especially mineral-based non-synthetic
    oils, but AMSOIL remains the proven pinnacle of quality. Yes, it's about a
    buck more than Mobil1, but then again Mobil1 is about 3 bucks more than
    generic dinosaur drippin's anyhow. The question is this: If you're gonna
    rise above mediocre anyhow, isn't it worth a buck more to just go first
    class?

    As for the mixing of different types or brands of motor oils, synthetics or
    standard, mentioned in a previous posting, this can be problematic in
    practice due to the varied, often proprietary (i.e. unknown), additive
    packages (various zinc compounds, polymers for "multigrade ranging", etc.)
    found in various motor oil brands, particularly non-synthetics (AMSOIL adds
    no such zinc or polymer additives in it's 10W30). What works passably to
    reduce wear, say zinc, in one admixture or concentration may do nothing or
    indeed harm in another. There are many synthetic/standard blends out there
    now offered by various manufacturers such as Castrol, Quaker State, and even
    generic store brands, where one assumes that such additive packages are
    controlled, but while these brands perform better in many respects than
    plain non-synthetics, they do not begin to approach the lubrication
    effectiveness of any full synthetic, and are not even in the same zipcode on
    charts of other desirable motor oil characteristics as AMSOIL.

    My point with the earlier tongue-in-cheek suggestion about putting
    guacamole, etc. in the crankcase was that in the end you can put any
    lubricants you like in your Amphi, from AMSOIL on down to Cooking Oil.
    After all, it's YOUR Amphi. You should just be aware of what you're
    choosing: pay a little extra now or perhaps a whole lot more later. If you
    don't mind pulling the engine and replacing the valve guides and main
    bearings and shells every decade or so, or if you scarcely ever use your
    Amphi anyhow, then perhaps a store-brand generic non-synthetic oil
    (hopefully) changed every 3000 miles or at the end of every boating season,
    whichever comes first, will work just fine for you. That's certainly what
    you want to use breaking in a new or rebuilt engine. Why? Because you WANT
    the lack of lubrication lesser lubricants offer...to a point. If, like me
    on the other hand, you're all "broken in" just so anyhow and want to do
    everything you can for your high-usage Amphi or other cherished rides to
    indefinitely postpone having to wrestle that engine out for a rebuild, then
    you'll spend that extra buck to get the very best tools available to reduce
    wear and tear to a minimum: AMSOIL.

    In closing, attached below is a text excerpt from message I sent some time
    ago to another owner concerning the breaking in a rebuilt engine. I thought
    it might be helpful to someone.

    With Regards,

    ~Bilgemaster~


    BREAKING IN YOUR REBUILT ENGINE

    If you have just rebuilt your engine you should "run it in" using a
    non-synthetic 10W30...whatever's on sale at the local auto supplies
    shop--the cheaper the better. You will actually WANT that extra wear during
    this first post-rebuild phase to help the engine's parts settle in. With
    the trannies you can go straight to the AMSOIL after a rebuild, but even
    here you might also want to do a "flush" using a cheaper non-synthetic GL-4
    grade gear oil (absolutely NOT a GL-5, the extra additives of which can eat
    your brass and other yellow metal parts). The flush will carry out any
    machinings, metal and other dust and whatnots that may still be in there.
    If you have any problems finding a straight GL-4 non-synthetic gear oil at
    the local auto supplies joints then try the shelves of any marine goods
    store. Lots of marine engines use straight GL-4 in their lower drive
    sections. Once again: DO NOT USE GL-5. You will need about a gallon for
    both trannies and the steering box. You might also get one of those handy
    screwtop pump things while you're looking around for just a couple of bucks.
    It'll also fit into your gallon size AMSOIL lube later and it's perfect for
    filling Amphi trannies with one hand.

    Once everything's topped off and ready for the first running, fire the beast
    up. The Amphi's Herald engine is a nice primitive little brute and will
    normally kick to life pretty quickly. In fact, mine started up after
    fourteen years of sitting in a shed in Poughkeepsie while I was just
    cleaning off the starter solenoid button's rubber. I pressed down a bit too
    hard on the button and
    "Vrrroooff!...blubbidy...blub!...blub!...blub!...blub!". Nevertheless, a
    spray can of starter fluid with upper cylinder lubricant might be a nice
    thing to have to keep from wearing down the battery if your rebuild's a
    little "tight". If it doesn't start up after a couple-few tries, play the
    manual choke at various settings fully in to fully out. If still no joy,
    then suspect an electrical hookup problem. Nine times out of ten when
    there's a problem folks discover on closer examination that they've got the
    spark plug wires crossed or something else in the ignition circuit mis- or
    disconnected. Always keep a fire extinguisher handy, just in case.

    RUNNING IN:

    1. Allow engine to idle until warm. While it's warming up, check for any
    coolant or oil leaks. Once warm, shut it down.
    2. Wait a few minutes and check the oil level. Too much is almost as bad as
    too little. Adjust accordingly.
    3. Restart engine and drive for several miles at varying engine speeds and
    loads, keeping it under about 3000 rpm (under 45 mph in 4th gear). You will
    want to vary the load and speed of the engine, not just idle it in the
    driveway or drive at a single speed on a parkway. Stop and go traffic is
    perfect. Run it in this fashion for the next 400 to 500 miles. Check oil
    level frequently as it may burn a bit as the rings settle in. This is
    normal.
    4. Drain engine oil and change filter. "Examine the drippin's": Any big
    metal chunks in there? Anything bigger than, say, a pencil lead? No?
    Good.
    5. Refill engine oil with AMSOIL 10W30 and an AMSOIL oil filter (details and
    ordering at http://www.amphicar.net/amsoil).
    6. Drain trannies and refill with AMSOIL GL4 Gear Oil (see
    http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/m1923.html for the how-to)
    7. Run gently but normally for the next 1000 or so miles, or until the end
    of the "Boating Season", whichever comes first.
    8. Drain engine oil and change oil filter. Refill with AMSOIL 10W30. Check
    tranny oil condition and levels (See #6's link above; I change my tranny oil
    as a matter of course at the end of every season, but as you might have
    guessed by now, I'm kind of a lubricant fetishist).
    9. Change oil and filter at the end of each season. Enjoy.

    GREASE DURING ASSEMBLY:

    1. Use only AMSOIL Water Resistant Synthetic Grease during assembly of all
    running gear (wheel bearings, u-joints, prop assemblies, steering arms,
    etc.). All other greases WILL turn into a greyish snot after only one
    season and thereafter wash away. If you've already got standard goop in
    there, you should replace it with the AMSOIL, particularly those wheel
    bearings and the pain-in-the-ass u-joints nearest the tranny. With the
    steering linkages and such, you can get away with simply greasing henceforth
    only with AMSOIL, and it will simply replace the standard goop as that
    dissolves away. The AMSOIL is perfectly compatible with any other grease
    you happen to have in there.

    ABOUT THE SPRAY:

    In answer to your question, the AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector
    Spray (see http://www.amphicar.net/amsoil/metalprotector.html) is indeed
    basically an improved easy-to-use spray can version of that hard-to-find
    WaxOyl stuff that British classics guys love to coat their rides in using
    the rose sprayer.

    Best of luck!
    ~Bilgemaster~
     
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