Engine Mounts

[Ken Chambers]

>
> what did you use for engine mounts? Does anyone have some spares that they
> could furnish to a deserving sole?
> Chas Gould

Just returned from vacation and I think this question was in reference to my
post about changing engine mounts and all rubber hoses on my newly acquired
Amphi.

The old, probably original, engine mounts had dissolved into a gelatinous slimy
rubber ooze. The engine was just sitting in place without anything really
holding it there. A good indication that something was not right was to look
at the engine sump drain in relation to the bilge hole. The engine drain
should be at the center of the bilge hole or even slightly higher. If the
engine drain plug is too low then your mounts are in need of replacement. The
fan can also hit the radiator shroud, especially when the engine is under
torque load.

Gordon has new heavy duty engine mounts in stock - and they're really nice.
About $35 each and well worth it. You'll have to slightly enlarge the mounting
holes on both the body and engine brackets to accommodate the larger stud
size. I was able to change the mounts by lifting the engine a few inches and
removing the engine mount bracket (which you'll have to do anyway to drill it)
to reach under the engine to get at the engine mount nuts. Not real easy but
doable. The new mounts seemed to have a non-standard wrench size (at least in
my set) of 18mm, if I remember correctly. However, I was able tighten all the
new nuts securely using another close wrench size. Everything lines up nicely
now and the engine is well cushioned on its new mounts.

Ken Chambers, CA
'64 Red, '64 White

 

[tommyintpa@aol.com]

<font FACE="arial,helvetica"><font SIZE="3" FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Calisto MT" LANG="0">Gordon has new heavy duty engine mounts in stock - and they're really nice.
About $35 each and well worth it. You'll have to slightly enlarge the
mounting holes on both the body and engine brackets to accommodate the larger
stud size. I was able to change the mounts by lifting the engine a few
inches and removing the engine mount bracket (which you'll have to do anyway
to drill it) to reach under the engine to get at the engine mount nuts. Not
real easy but doable. The new mounts seemed to have a nonstandard wrench
size (at least in

my set) of 18 mm, if I remember correctly. However, I was able tighten all
the new nuts securely using another close wrench size. Everything lines up
nicely now and the engine is well cushioned on its new mounts.



Ken Chambers, CA

'64 Red, '64 White



Hi, I just replaced the motor mounts on Corky my red 67. I did not have to
drill out the holes for the new mounts, they were the correct size. I did not
need to remove the engine mount bracket. I did cut all the excess bolt length
off the lower bolts on the mount so it was a little less tortuous to tighten
up on the bottom.

Tommy in Tampa</font>

 

[Steven D. Reich]

<table>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001">Hi-</span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001"></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001">I just checked with Gordon Imports and engine mounts are in stock for $35.70 each (two needed).</span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001"></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001">Prior to Hugh getting these I used Volvo replacement (not manufactured by Volvo) mounts (Part # 273910 from Inter Auto Parts, (858) 279-9900 in San Diego) for about $17 a pair.<font face="Arial" color="#000000" size="2"> The mounts required a bit of grinding of the bottom metal surface to flatten it to fit in the bracket, but even I had no trouble doing that since tolerances are measured in mm not 0.0001 inch.</font></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" size="2"></font></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" size="2">I hope this information is helpful.</font></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" size="2"></font></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" size="2">-Steve</font></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" size="2"></font></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" size="2">'64 red (CA:AMPHICR) with Volvo mounts</font></span></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="520113317-08082001"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" size="2">'64 red (CA:I SWIM 2) with loose mounts that one day I need to fix


</font></span></font>

 

[okey0]

reviving an old thread, eh?

can anyone report results of using the Volvo 273910 part # that is mentioned in the above post? $15 for BOTH sound better than $90, provided it's an EZ replacement. Has there been a write up anywhere (here or club newsletters) that explains what all is involved?

 

[Ken Chambers]

That is interesting. How did that old thread on engine mounts come up again as if I just posted it?

Since we're on the topic, those mounts from G.I. that I installed back in 2001 performed well all along. Due to a recent clutch change I installed new mounts as long as the engine was out. Bought them from G.I. again.

 

[SNOWBIRD]

I sell my engine mount for $50 a pair(that's both)
and have them here in Fl.