engine milage and mechnical status

[Amphicarbudd]

wheather 0 miles 0r 5000 is really immaterial--these old amphicars have for the most part been sitting unused for most of their lives and the rings tend to chrystalize over time------my experience is wih m0del t fords and although a flat head the upper end is always the first to be affected on a overhead valve enginelike in these. you need in my opinion to check out your compression and go from there to the valves if they cant hold---------use the triumph or standard parts manual for tollerances-my engine is a 1500 withcannon/weber setup as the 1149 is gutless as it is--------mighty nice ride you found but you may have to address the top end and possibly rings before you get wet

 

[chasgould]

engine milage and* mechnical status

In a message dated 5/27/08 1:56:00 AM, writes:

> wheather 0 miles 0r 5000 is really immaterial--these old amphicars have for
> the most part been sitting unused for most of their lives and the rings tend
> to chrystalize over time-----
>

Respectfully, I disagree. I have tugged literally hunreds of barn find cars
of all types out of barns afte thirty to forty year slumbers, and after proper
preparations and lubrication, have fired each and everyone of them up with
literally no engine failures or decrease in compression or performance over the
years.
Charles


**************
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[Ken Chambers]

engine milage and* mechnical status

Yes, VW's are like that. Ha.

http://www.veoh.com/videos/v550611fKCwKB5Z

---Ken Chambers

> I have tugged literally hunreds of barn find cars
> of all types out of barns afte thirty to forty year slumbers, and
> after proper
> preparations and lubrication, have fired each and everyone of them
> up with
> literally no engine failures or decrease in compression or
> performance over the
> years.

 

[CapnJohn]

I have to disagree too. I have also done a few barn finds w/o problems. Especially these engines. Some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder, let soak and change all fluids. My white Amphi had only 2600 miles on it and was parked for the better part of it life. I have put over 5000 miles on it since.

Don't worry Tommy! Put some lead additive in the fuel every other tank and at some point havethe valve seats replaced w/hardened ones and it will run on unleaded w/o worry.

PS - The house they show at the end of that "Sleeper" clip is right here in Colo. off I-70, just West of Denver. I used to live just minutes from it. I watched them film some of the shots there.

 

[PeterP]

I dunno. I have a fairly low mileage car, the engine should have been in pretty good shape, but it never seemed to run correctly. I eventually pulled the top end to figure out what was going on:

pistons1 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

So, provided you are sure everything is fine, probably not strictly required. On the other hand probably can't hurt to have a looksee and make sure nothing is catastrophically damaged.

 

[CapnJohn]

I dunno. I have a fairly low mileage car, the engine should have been in pretty good shape, but it never seemed to run correctly. I eventually pulled the top end to figure out what was going on:

pistons1 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

So, provided you are sure everything is fine, probably not strictly required. On the other hand probably can't hurt to have a looksee and make sure nothing is catastrophically damaged.

Looks like detonation problems. That was from running it with the timing too far advanced. That would not have been caused by sitting at all. It was operator error or lack of maintenance. Certainly not a "usual suspect."

A good inspection is always in order. Compression testing and leak down testing will tell you most of what you need to know.

 

[chasgould]

Re: engine milage and* mechnical status

In a message dated 5/27/08 11:43:38 AM,
writes:

> I dunno. I have a fairly low mileage car, the engine should have been in
> pretty good shape, but it never seemed to run correctly. I eventually pulled
> the top end to figure out what was going on:
>
>

It is certainly possible for an engine which has been sitting, to break a
ring, or stick a valve, but it is far more likely that these rings were stuck
solid before someone (presumably a previous owner) had tried to spin it loose
without lubricating or freeing the moving parts like rings or valves. These rings
may have broken from being forced to move while still rusted to the cylinder
walls, or stuck in the piston lans. The pistons appear to have been banged up
by the broken ring parts which were apparently being thrown about in the
combustion chamber.
I always try to free a long stored engine manually, and not on the starter
motor, or by running or dragging the car, and popping the clutch. If the engine
has a crank, that is the best way, but otherwise, with the plugs removed to
reduce compression and to allow you to listen or watch for problems, I simply
turn the fan while tensioning the belt with my other hand, or use a ratchet to
turn the crankshaft pulley. By using your hands, you can easily "feel" for any
obstruction or problems, before any damage is usually done.
I also lubricate all of the cylinders liberally before trying to turn the
engine at all, and once I am certain that it is free, and that all components are
traveling freely (usually by removing the valve cover and watching each and
every valve and lifter operating through its range of motion), I will then spin
the engine with plugs removed on the starter motor to be sure all is free,
and that the previously installed fresh oil is being distributed and lubricated
throughout the engine.
I do not believe in prophylactic engine rebuilds or disassembly, as it is
often not necessary, and often introduces new variables which can mask or
complicate your ability to properly diagnose the original problems and condition of
the engine.
I always say, get it running, and see what you got before you tear it apart.
Just my two cents,
Chas


**************
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&
?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

 

[Canadian four amphs]

Every engine,, and every trans, should be taken apart and inspected before use on the road, if it has been sitting (Barn finds) for any long length of time without proper*** storage preperation..
Number one the sluge in the bottom of the oil pan on every car I have worked on has been up to 1 inch thick, the min. you start that engine up your mixing some of that with the new oil!
Next you never know what the last person parked that car for.
I had one that ran great, took it apart and found a bent connecting rod that was touching the side of the cylinder.
Even thou some ran I found rings to be stuck. and in transmitions found brearings just ready to let go!.
I stock all parts for motor rebuilds,including complete exchange motors.
Gord
Canadian 4amphs.