early / late

[bkahler]

David, thanks for the info.

I checked the engine serial # and its GK874HE. Not sure where that fits in
the production sequence but if engines were used somewhat sequentially then
this car might have been built in the 1st 1000 or so. I don't know where to
look for the transmission number and it will be a while before I can as the
seats are still installed.

What would be the measurements for a large driveshaft tunnel?

The bilge plug is approximately 30 mm in diameter. Not sure if that is the
large one or the small one. I would hate to think of one being smaller than
that

Brad


On Thu, Jul 23, 2009 at 5:02 PM, DavidC <>wrote:

> They did use different VINs - and also it's not unknown for cars to have
> more than one vin number and even two cars to have the same vin number.
>
> Thing to remember is most of the cars were made in one batch probably late
> in 1962 when Amphicar were in "we will sell 20,000 of these a year" mode.
>
> The prop shields were only on cars that left the factory early - they were
> cut off all later cars as Amphicar works better without them.
>
> Larger driveshaft tunnels mean a later car.
>
> The flat side cars were all early.
>
> Chrome windows were an option.
>
> Red cars were a black dashboard were often earlier blue white or green cars
> resprayed.
>
> Early cars could jump out of gear as they didn't have a steady at the
> bottom of the water transmission.
>
> I think the best way to tell the age of an original car is the serial
> number of the engine and transmission - these seem to have been used
> sequentially. Most of my cars are late and had/have transmission numbers
> over 2000 but I do have an early transmission here (number 34) that looks to
> have been hand built.
>
> Engine numbers - earliest I've seen is GK150HE but there may be earlier
> ones about.
>
> There are sometimes date stamps on the brake backplates and the speedo -
> but these are when the components were made and so are normally 1961.
>
> Under the front seat there is sometimes a label and I have seen handwritten
> dates on these.
>
> Be aware that a German 1 looks like an English 7, the German 7 has a line
> through the middle.
>
> Cars with the flat sides are slightly heavier than those with the profile
> at the bottom and as a result don't drive quite as well although difference
> is very minor.
>
> Removing the rubber underseal saves around 30Kg which is noticable -
> (another reason why I always recommend against, epoxy paints, stone chip,
> por15, truck liner, thick marine paint and the like that people put on their
> Amphicars that just adds weight and that some poor sod will have to try and
> remove a few years later !)
>
> Oh - finally - Amphicar America and later Ranchero Motors would stamp there
> own "manufactured date" on the car at time of sale so it appeared fresh.
>
> David C
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mike_israel
> To: david@manbus.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 8:58 PM
> Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20495] Re: early / late
>
>
> Dave Chapman probably knows more but I recall that Amphicar used*two sets
> of VIN's based on which factory they were built at.*
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.25/2256 - Release Date: 07/23/09
> 06:02:00
>
>
>

 

[bkahler]

Ted,

Would you have any pictures of your car posted somewhere that I could look
at?

Thanks,

Brad


On Thu, Jul 23, 2009 at 3:49 PM, Tedredamphi <

> wrote:

> Brad,
> *All *of the characteristics that you mention are on my *1964 Amphicar*serial number 101227. They were probably built in the same month.
> Later,
> Ted
>
>
>

 

[Ed Price]

That would sound like a "later" bilge plug. The originals were a
screw-thread plug; the later ones were a big "stopper" with a rubber
circumferential seal and a crosswise eyelet for a cotter-pin safety clip.


Ed Price
El Cajon, CA USA
WB6WSN
61 Rust Guppy
1987 MB 420SEL






_____

From: bkahler [mailto:]
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 5:03 PM
To: edprice@cox.net
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20495] Re: early / late


David, thanks for the info.

I checked the engine serial # and its GK874HE. Not sure where that fits in
the production sequence but if engines were used somewhat sequentially then
this car might have been built in the 1st 1000 or so. I don't know where to
look for the transmission number and it will be a while before I can as the
seats are still installed.

What would be the measurements for a large driveshaft tunnel?

The bilge plug is approximately 30 mm in diameter. Not sure if that is the
large one or the small one. I would hate to think of one being smaller than
that <http://www.amphicar770.com/amphicarforum/images/smilies/smile.gif>

Brad


On Thu, Jul 23, 2009 at 5:02 PM, DavidC <>wrote:



Quote:

> They did use different VINs - and also it's not unknown for cars to have
> more than one vin number and even two cars to have the same vin number.
>
> Thing to remember is most of the cars were made in one batch probably late
> in 1962 when Amphicar were in "we will sell 20,000 of these a year" mode.
>
> The prop shields were only on cars that left the factory early - they were
> cut off all later cars as Amphicar works better without them.
>
> Larger driveshaft tunnels mean a later car.
>
> The flat side cars were all early.
>
> Chrome windows were an option.
>
> Red cars were a black dashboard were often earlier blue white or green

cars

> resprayed.
>
> Early cars could jump out of gear as they didn't have a steady at the
> bottom of the water transmission.
>
> I think the best way to tell the age of an original car is the serial
> number of the engine and transmission - these seem to have been used
> sequentially. Most of my cars are late and had/have transmission numbers
> over 2000 but I do have an early transmission here (number 34) that looks

to

> have been hand built.
>
> Engine numbers - earliest I've seen is GK150HE but there may be earlier
> ones about.
>
> There are sometimes date stamps on the brake backplates and the speedo -
> but these are when the components were made and so are normally 1961.
>
> Under the front seat there is sometimes a label and I have seen

handwritten

> dates on these.
>
> Be aware that a German 1 looks like an English 7, the German 7 has a line
> through the middle.
>
> Cars with the flat sides are slightly heavier than those with the profile
> at the bottom and as a result don't drive quite as well although

difference

> is very minor.
>
> Removing the rubber underseal saves around 30Kg which is noticable -
> (another reason why I always recommend against, epoxy paints, stone chip,
> por15, truck liner, thick marine paint and the like that people put on

their

> Amphicars that just adds weight and that some poor sod will have to try

and

> remove a few years later !)
>
> Oh - finally - Amphicar America and later Ranchero Motors would stamp

there

> own "manufactured date" on the car at time of sale so it appeared fresh.
>
> David C
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mike_israel
> To: david@manbus.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 8:58 PM
> Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20495] Re: early / late
>
>
> Dave Chapman probably knows more but I recall that Amphicar used*two sets
> of VIN's based on which factory they were built at.*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--

>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.25/2256 - Release Date: 07/23/09
> 06:02:00
>
>
>

 

[bkahler]

This is the threaded type of bilge plug. Surprisingly I even have a decent
bilge plug to use.

Brad


On Sat, Jul 25, 2009 at 8:56 PM, Ed Price <>wrote:

> That would sound like a "later" bilge plug. The originals were a
> screw-thread plug; the later ones were a big "stopper" with a rubber
> circumferential seal and a crosswise eyelet for a cotter-pin safety clip.
>
>
> Ed Price
> El Cajon, CA USA
> WB6WSN
> 61 Rust Guppy
> 1987 MB 420SEL
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: bkahler [mailto:]
> Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 5:03 PM
> To: edprice@cox.net
> Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20495] Re: early / late
>
>
> David, thanks for the info.
>
> I checked the engine serial # and its GK874HE. Not sure where that fits in
> the production sequence but if engines were used somewhat sequentially then
> this car might have been built in the 1st 1000 or so. I don't know where to
> look for the transmission number and it will be a while before I can as the
> seats are still installed.
>
> What would be the measurements for a large driveshaft tunnel?
>
> The bilge plug is approximately 30 mm in diameter. Not sure if that is the
> large one or the small one. I would hate to think of one being smaller than
> that <http://www.amphicar770.com/amphicarf...ies/smile.gif><http://www.amphicar770.com/amphicarforum/images/smilies/smile.gif%3E>
>
> Brad
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 23, 2009 at 5:02 PM, DavidC <>wrote:
>
>
>
> Quote:
>
> Quote:
> > They did use different VINs - and also it's not unknown for cars to
> have
> > more than one vin number and even two cars to have the same vin number.
> >
> > Thing to remember is most of the cars were made in one batch probably
> late
> > in 1962 when Amphicar were in "we will sell 20,000 of these a year" mode.
> >
> > The prop shields were only on cars that left the factory early - they
> were
> > cut off all later cars as Amphicar works better without them.
> >
> > Larger driveshaft tunnels mean a later car.
> >
> > The flat side cars were all early.
> >
> > Chrome windows were an option.
> >
> > Red cars were a black dashboard were often earlier blue white or green
> cars
>
> Quote:
> > resprayed.
> >
> > Early cars could jump out of gear as they didn't have a steady at the
> > bottom of the water transmission.
> >
> > I think the best way to tell the age of an original car is the serial
> > number of the engine and transmission - these seem to have been used
> > sequentially. Most of my cars are late and had/have transmission numbers
> > over 2000 but I do have an early transmission here (number 34) that looks
>
> to
>
> Quote:
> > have been hand built.
> >
> > Engine numbers - earliest I've seen is GK150HE but there may be earlier
> > ones about.
> >
> > There are sometimes date stamps on the brake backplates and the speedo -
> > but these are when the components were made and so are normally 1961.
> >
> > Under the front seat there is sometimes a label and I have seen
> handwritten
>
> Quote:
> > dates on these.
> >
> > Be aware that a German 1 looks like an English 7, the German 7 has a line
> > through the middle.
> >
> > Cars with the flat sides are slightly heavier than those with the profile
> > at the bottom and as a result don't drive quite as well although
> difference
>
> Quote:
> > is very minor.
> >
> > Removing the rubber underseal saves around 30Kg which is noticable -
> > (another reason why I always recommend against, epoxy paints, stone chip,
> > por15, truck liner, thick marine paint and the like that people put on
> their
>
> Quote:
> > Amphicars that just adds weight and that some poor sod will have to
> try
> and
>
> Quote:
> > remove a few years later !)
> >
> > Oh - finally - Amphicar America and later Ranchero Motors would stamp
> there
>
> Quote:
> > own "manufactured date" on the car at time of sale so it appeared
> fresh.
> >
> > David C
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: mike_israel
> > To: david@manbus.com
> > Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 8:58 PM
> > Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20495] Re: early / late
> >
> >
> > Dave Chapman probably knows more but I recall that Amphicar used*two sets
> > of VIN's based on which factory they were built at.*
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>
> Quote:
> >
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.25/2256 - Release Date:
> 07/23/09
> > 06:02:00
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

 

[jfriese]

Brad,

The large drive shaft tunnels are about 6" across.

I think you have the smaller, more common, bilge plug. The large one is about 2 inches across. If yours is brass and screws in then it's the smaller type.

John Friese
67 White
67 Red

 

[bkahler]

John,

Thanks for the dimension on the tunnel size. I haven't had a chance to
measure as yet, I might try to do so before we head to Evansville so I have
something to compare against.

Its amazing that the mechanic/owner was expected to drain the oil from the
engine through that small bilge plug. I can just imagine the horror stories
people have experienced over the years in trying to change oil!

Thanks again,

Brad



On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 10:01 AM, jfriese <>wrote:

> Brad,
>
> The large drive shaft tunnels are about 6" across.
>
> I think you have the smaller, more common, bilge plug. The large one is
> about 2 inches across. If yours is brass and screws in then it's the smaller
> type.
>
> John Friese
> 67 White
> 67 Red
>
>
>

 

[mike_israel]

Changing the oil on Amphi is actually a piece of cake.* You just need a socket wrench with extension.* You may want to raise the left front wheel to help the oil pour out of the bilge.
*
If you really want an adventure, try changing the oil on a late model VW-Touareg V8.* First you remove a bunch of panels, then there are two drain plugs one being about 2.5" in diameter which unleashes a gusher of oil (about 8 quarts worth).

 

[Bilgemaster]

Lots in the List Archives about oil changing, and someone (Rob
Vondracek, maybe?) sells or used to sell some kind of oil drain plug
extender-draining kit to keep the drippage out of the bilge, but a piece
of cardboard cut and folded to fit ito the bilge drain and around the
oil plug will work fine too. But you don't have to be TOO obsessive
about a little oil getting back into the bilge, for as our esteemed
"[plash "ing" Billy Syx will tell you: "An oily bilge is a happy
bilge."

Regards,
Bilgey

On Wed, 5 Aug 2009 1:25 pm, mike_israel wrote:

> Changing the oil on Amphi is actually a piece of cake.* You just need a
> socket wrench with extension.* You may want to raise the left front
> wheel to help the oil pour out of the bilge.
> *
> If you really want an adventure, try changing the oil on a late model
> VW-Touareg V8.* First you remove a bunch of panels, then there are two
> drain plugs one being about 2.5" in diameter which unleashes a gusher
> of oil (about 8 quarts worth).
>
>

 

[Texas-Floats]

I bought a long funnel that is used to fill an automatic transmission and
cut a section of it so it would fit up to the engine and get wedged in the
threads of the bilge drain. Your socket wrench with a short extension will
fit through it. All you have to do is remove the plug and the oil drips
into your pan. Very similar to the cardboard that Bilgey talks about, and I
used that for years, but the plastic funnel piece is easier and you can
reuse it.



-- Warren



From: Bilgemaster [mailto:]
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 3:05 PM
To: kodo@kodoskorner.com
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20495] Re: early / late



Lots in the List Archives about oil changing, and someone (Rob
Vondracek, maybe?) sells or used to sell some kind of oil drain plug
extender-draining kit to keep the drippage out of the bilge, but a piece
of cardboard cut and folded to fit ito the bilge drain and around the
oil plug will work fine too. But you don't have to be TOO obsessive
about a little oil getting back into the bilge, for as our esteemed
"[plash "ing" Billy Syx will tell you: "An oily bilge is a happy
bilge."

Regards,
Bilgey

On Wed, 5 Aug 2009 1:25 pm, mike_israel wrote:

Quote:

> Changing the oil on Amphi is actually a piece of cake.* You just need a
> socket wrench with extension.* You may want to raise the left front
> wheel to help the oil pour out of the bilge.
> *
> If you really want an adventure, try changing the oil on a late model
> VW-Touareg V8.* First you remove a bunch of panels, then there are two
> drain plugs one being about 2.5" in diameter which unleashes a gusher
> of oil (about 8 quarts worth).
>
>