Early Late car differences.

[mike_israel]

Re: Early Late car differences.

Steve,

Just dropped it in the mail about 3 mins ago. I am so used to doing everything electronically I forgot to write it out.

In any event, should be there Friday or Saturday.

Thanks,

Mike


DavidC wrote:

> But last time I was there I remember that the majority of vehicles now on US
> roads have amber turn signals which must mean that each year it is more
> dangerous for those who don't - especially as new drivers (and those from
> the rest of the world) don't expect it.
> Amongst new vehicles in the US isn't it just domestic trucks now that don't
> use amber ?
> Like I said it's an easy modification for Amphicar and so would be one of
> the first things I would do if I drove there. If you still need to reverse
> at night then put your foot slightly on the brakes - the stop lights
> illuminate behind almost as well as the backup lights on US spec Amphis.
> There is another reason to change, at least one Amphicar (it was in Hughs
> workshop) has been lost in a fire caused by that backup light switch in
> front of the transmission. Look at the spark you get when the backup lights
> come on, then remember where any leaking fuel collects....
> David C
> From: bkahler [mailto:]
> Sent: 15 December 2009 19:39
> To: david@manbus.com
> Subject: SPAM-MED: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20640] Re: Early Late
> car differences.
> As I said, this is an issue of what you're raised with is what makes the
> most sense. Personally I wouldn't trust a government study if my life
> depended on it and in this case it does.
> Its kind of like what George Bernard Shaw said, "England and America are two
> countries separated by a common language". There are many many more things
> than just language that separate us.
> To each their own I guess
> < http://www.amphicar770.com/amphicarf...ies/smile.gif>
> On Tue, Dec 15, 2009 at 1:58 PM, chasgould
> <>wrote:
> Quote:
> Quote:
> > I agree with David on this one. The amber lens is accepted
>> internationally, and is more recognizable by citizens of every country. In
>> addition, it is an unambiguous signal of an impending turn, as opposed to
>> the brake light which should be completely independent from the turn
>> signals. It makes no sense to flash a brake light for a turn because if
> one
> Quote:
> > of the brake lights is burned out, it may appear as though the driver is
>> pumping his brakes. In addition, there may be no need to slow or stop from
>> behind a turning vehicle as opposed to being behind a stopping vehicle, so
>> yellow (or amber) is the appropriate colour as it signals "caution", as
>> opposed to "stop".
>> Chas
>>
>>
>>
>> Quote:
>> Originally Posted by *bkahler* [image: View
> Post]< http://showthread.php/?p=40987#post40987
> < http://showthread.php/?p=40987#post40987>> >
> Quote:
> > Greg,
>>
>> There are two wires that feed the brake lights. Each wire is indepentantly
>> controlled through the turn signal circuit. If no turn signal is on both
>> wires become hot when the brake pedal is pressed. If the turn signal is
>> selected left then the left wire is fed to a flasher that causes the brake
>> light bulb to flash. Same for the right side brake light.
>>
>> Personally I find this much more noticable than the European method of
>> having separate usually smaller lights. When using the brake lights to
>> indicate a turn you will always know where to look on the vehicle ahead of
>> you for the turn indication.
>>
>> I guess this is one of those issues where what you're born and raised with
>> makes the most sense. You'll never get me to agree that the european
> method
> Quote:
> > is better
>>
>> Brad
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 15, 2009 at 12:55 PM, chapron67
>> <>wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>

 

[azpaul50]

Capn John... the missus just got off a plane in Denver a few minutes ago. She'll be there for a week doing grandma stuff in Parker. Keep the freeze away, will ya'? It was 70 here when she left!



To: azpaul50@hotmail.com
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20640] Re: Early Late car differences.
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 11:00:59 -0500
From:






Quote:




Originally Posted by Canadian four amphs
THERE ARE 2 different rubbers used on tail lights.
I was just working on my 67 in Fl. and it has the hidden rubbers
they are completly different! in a way I like them better as they show off more chrome on the lens.
I modified the back up light to work as turn and brake with a red LED bulb.
This can only be done if you convert the car to Neg Ground.(LED,s)
GORDGord, Not to argue with you my friend , but in my experience EVERY single one that I took apart the rubber was EXACTLY the same, no differences what so ever. It was merely tucked inside the lens. It could appear different after being squished for 45 years. What is the difference that you see in yours?

You don't need to convert to (-) ground to use LEDs. Pos or Neg ground doesn't matter only having the correct resistor (so it will work on 12V) and correct dedicated connections matter (+) to (+), (-) to (-).



_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/

 

[cigarman]

The Amphicar Lover's Message Board / Forum > Amphicar Photo Gallery > Amphicar Photos > Amphicar Restorations. Projects, & Repairs > I posted pictures of the 2 different rear tail light rubber gaskets. The old style had a groove all around it fitting in the tail light opening on the body and then fitting inside the lens. I believe Amphicar changed this due to leaks. On the the newer style the len sits on top of the rubber for a better seal.

Cigarman

 

[SplitPersonality]

John -
RE LED's and positive vs Negative Ground. Thanks for the info. I wondered
about that, as I know the LED's are polarity sensitive, but had figured
(correctly) that as long as you have them the correct way around connection
wise, they should work just fine. Now, John, since you are technically sharp
at this stuff. How can I get some bright red LED's and use them on 6 volts
AND HAVE THEM BE AS BRIGHT AS THE 12 VOLT BRIGHT LED'S. I gather that some
Led's are brighter than others, or is that a matter of which resistors are
used ? I had begun to conclude that they are just evolving and coming out
with brighter lights. I know that as little as 1-1/2 volts can run an LED,
but almost all of the LED bulbs available are already wired ( with the
appropriate resisters) so they run only on 12 volts. I realize they will, I
believe, work on 6 volts, but at considerably reduced brightness. I want them
for brake lights on a 6 volt car. Any advice or specifics would be
appreciated. They are made for e.g. Model A tail lights, but they are made to fit
a specific Model A Ford lens that is not appropriate on other cars. I
would like a single element bulb - single contact ( any pin configuration that
is for Brake light use) that is as bright as possible, but for 6 volts.
Vic


In a message dated 12/15/2009 11:04:36 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian four amphs
(mip://02040260/showthread.php?p=40980#post40980)
THERE ARE 2 different rubbers used on tail lights.
I was just working on my 67 in Fl. and it has the hidden rubbers
they are completly different! in a way I like them better as they show off
more chrome on the lens.
I modified the back up light to work as turn and brake with a red LED bulb.
This can only be done if you convert the car to Neg Ground.(LED,s)
GORD

Gord, Not to argue with you my friend , but in my experience EVERY single
one that I took apart the rubber was EXACTLY the same, no differences what
so ever. It was merely tucked inside the lens. It could appear different
after being squished for 45 years. What is the difference that you see in
yours?

You don't need to convert to (-) ground to use LEDs. Pos or Neg ground
doesn't matter only having the correct resistor (so it will work on 12V) and
correct dedicated connections matter (+) to (+), (-) to (-).

 

[CapnJohn]

AzPaul -
I hope she enjoys her stay here! Timing is everything. It was -21 here last week, for almost a week we didn't get above +13. T-shirt weather today! It was a nice 40 today, 50 tomorrow! I even had the sunroof in my truck open!


Vic -
Try the links I listed below. I am not familiar with the proper bulb type you are replacing. There are resources so you don't need to re-invent the wheel, or light, at it were! I'm no expert, there are others far more qualified than I. I am just lucky sometimes.

Keep in mind that you want the LED to be red if your lens is red. Amber if your lens is amber for the brightest light. There are different types of LEDs. Some have a wider viewing angle (100 deg, I believe VS <20 deg.). one is brighter in a narrower field, while the wide is dimmer overall, but in a wider viewing angle. They can be dimmed to. So you need to keep in mind the direction of the LEDs. They present the light more in a narrow beam and not an all around glow like filament types do from all sides. This is why they are arranged in a cluster.

• Light Bulbs Classic Auto Bulbs Automotive Replacement Light Bulbs
• 6 Volt LED Positive or Negative Ground Auto Replacement Bulbs
• Super Bright LEDs - Boat, RV and Other LED Bulbs

 

[Ken Chambers]

Vic,

Regarding LED lighting, if you want to build your own LED lamps, let's see if I can help explain a bit.

You'll need to place a resistor in series with the LED to reduce the voltage going to it because most LEDs run around a couple volts. Take a Radio Shack 276-0017 LED, for example. Its specs are 3.3V at 25mA (or .025A), so it will work nicely in a 6 (or 12) volt system. How to choose the correct resistor? Follow along.

You'll want to drop the voltage from 6V to 3.3V, so 6 - 3.3 = 2.7V

Using Ohm's law, R = E / I, so R = 2.7V / .025A or 108Ohms

To determine the correct wattage of resistor, P = E * I, so 6V * .025A = .15W

So a small 1/4W, 100 or 110 Ohm resistor should work fine.

Remember, LEDs are diodes, so they are polarity dependent. Play with the numbers substituting values for the system voltage and LED of your choice.
Radio Shack has an assortment of LEDs to choose from or any electronics supplier. Have fun.

Best,
Ken Chambers, CA
'64 Red


On Dec 15, 2009, at 8:15 PM, SplitPersonality wrote:

> John -
> RE LED's and positive vs Negative Ground. Thanks for the info. I wondered
> about that, as I know the LED's are polarity sensitive, but had figured
> (correctly) that as long as you have them the correct way around connection
> wise, they should work just fine. Now, John, since you are technically sharp
> at this stuff. How can I get some bright red LED's and use them on 6 volts
> AND HAVE THEM BE AS BRIGHT AS THE 12 VOLT BRIGHT LED'S. I gather that some
> Led's are brighter than others, or is that a matter of which resistors are
> used ? I had begun to conclude that they are just evolving and coming out
> with brighter lights. I know that as little as 1-1/2 volts can run an LED,
> but almost all of the LED bulbs available are already wired ( with the
> appropriate resisters) so they run only on 12 volts. I realize they will, I
> believe, work on 6 volts, but at considerably reduced brightness. I want them
> for brake lights on a 6 volt car. Any advice or specifics would be
> appreciated. They are made for e.g. Model A tail lights, but they are made to fit
> a specific Model A Ford lens that is not appropriate on other cars. I
> would like a single element bulb - single contact ( any pin configuration that
> is for Brake light use) that is as bright as possible, but for 6 volts.
> Vic

 

[azpaul50]

CapN - 40 and a t-shirt??? Are you Frosty the Snowman? I was at Estes Park for a Robbie Kneival thing 3 - 4 summers ago (at the horse track?) and was freezing up there in July! I also could not find a single 4 square feet of level ground! We went into a restaurant and I felt "slanted" the whole time. We carefully observed the water in a glass (for difference from level) and indeed we were canted by an estimated 2 degrees regardless of table! When I got home to Arizona, I had a case of "sea legs" for a while. I had to learn to walk on flat ground again! lololol



To: azpaul50@hotmail.com
Subject: RE: [General Amphicar Discussion-t-20640] Re: Early Late car differences.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 00:34:05 -0500
From:




AzPaul -
I hope she enjoys her stay here! Timing is everything. It was -21 here last week, for almost a week we didn't get above +13. T-shirt weather today! It was a nice 40 today, 50 tomorrow! I even had the sunroof in my truck open!


Vic -
Try the links I listed below. I am not familiar with the proper bulb type you are replacing. There are resources so you don't need to re-invent the wheel, or light, at it were! I'm no expert, there are others far more qualified than I. I am just lucky sometimes.

Keep in mind that you want the LED to be red if your lens is red. Amber if your lens is amber for the brightest light. There are different types of LEDs. Some have a wider viewing angle (100 deg, I believe VS
Light Bulbs Classic Auto Bulbs Automotive Replacement Light Bulbs
6 Volt LED Positive or Negative Ground Auto Replacement Bulbs
Super Bright LEDs - Boat, RV and Other LED Bulbs



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/

 

[canitfloat]

Has anyone had any luck with using LED's in place of the 4 warning lights in the cluster gauge? I have a perfect cluster ga. but all of the red, green, blue lenses are gone and I would rather not bust open the ga to look for them. Thanks!

 

[Ken Chambers]

I did that but for a slightly different reason. On my gauge the colored lenses are intact but the standard incandescent bulbs aren't bright enough to see during daylight. Those lenses in the gauges simply attenuates too much light. So I took one of the bulbs, broke out the glass, wired in a bright white LED with appropriate voltage limiting resistor and potted it back in the brass base. It worked better, even looked nearly like an original bulb, but still not as bright as I would like. I may try it again with a brighter and/or bigger LED.

I think in your case it would work much better using colored LEDs since the colored lenses in the gauge are missing. Kind of a tedious job to modify those tiny bulbs. Good luck.

-Ken Chambers, CA
'64 Red


On Dec 16, 2009, at 5:15 AM, canitfloat wrote:

> Has anyone had any luck with using LED's in place of the 4 warning lights in the cluster gauge? I have a perfect cluster ga. but all of the red, green, blue lenses are gone and I would rather not bust open the ga to look for them. Thanks!

 

[jfriese]

When the lenses are missing, they have just fallen inside. If you go through the hassle of removing the cluster, getting to the lenses is easy since you can just remove the fuel and temp modules and have rather easy access to most of the insides. Ken is right though about some of the lenses being just too opaque. The blue one, used for the generator output, is particularly dark and I've often thought of swapping it with the red one, used for the high beam indicator.


John Friese
67 White
67 Red

 

[CapnJohn]

... nearly like an original bulb, but still not as bright as I would like. I may try it again with a brighter and/or bigger LED.

The problem is the color of LEDs you chose, not the brightness of it. Like I mentioned before, match the LED to the color of the lens. A red lens filters out all but the red light, so if you use a red LED behind a red lens, you will have a brighter red light. Also use a narrow beam LED, they put out more light concentrated in a smaller <20 deg area, the wide puts out same light but spread out over a 100 deg area, so it's dimmer over the whole viewing angle.

 

[SplitPersonality]

John, Ken, et al -

I appreciate all the information and suggestions re LEDs. We do have a
place here outside Orlando which has almost anything one might wish in the way
of LEDs, switches in all sorts of configurations ( such as 4 pole double
throws, 2 pole double throw momentaries and you name it. Anybody near
Orlando would do well to visit "Skycraft" at Fairbanks and I-4 and just look
around. They have all manner of things, but I have difficulty getting the
information I need. If you know what you are looking for, they probably have it
! Thanks

Vic nelson with the 67 Split Personality


In a message dated 12/16/2009 1:47:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:

Vic,

Regarding LED lighting, if you want to build your own LED lamps, let's see
if I can help explain a bit.

You'll need to place a resistor in series with the LED to reduce the
voltage going to it because most LEDs run around a couple volts. Take a Radio
Shack 276-0017 LED, for example. Its specs are 3.3V at 25mA (or .025A), so it
will work nicely in a 6 (or 12) volt system. How to choose the correct
resistor? Follow along.

You'll want to drop the voltage from 6V to 3.3V, so 6 - 3.3 = 2.7V

Using Ohm's law, R = E / I, so R = 2.7V / .025A or 108Ohms

To determine the correct wattage of resistor, P = E * I, so 6V * .025A =
.15W

So a small 1/4W, 100 or 110 Ohm resistor should work fine.

Remember, LEDs are diodes, so they are polarity dependent. Play with the
numbers substituting values for the system voltage and LED of your choice.
Radio Shack has an assortment of LEDs to choose from or any electronics
supplier. Have fun.

Best,
Ken Chambers, CA
'64 Red


On Dec 15, 2009, at 8:15 PM, SplitPersonality wrote:



Quote:

> John -
> RE LED's and positive vs Negative Ground. Thanks for the info. I

wondered

> about that, as I know the LED's are polarity sensitive, but had figured
> (correctly) that as long as you have them the correct way around

connection

> wise, they should work just fine. Now, John, since you are technically

sharp

> at this stuff. How can I get some bright red LED's and use them on 6

volts

> AND HAVE THEM BE AS BRIGHT AS THE 12 VOLT BRIGHT LED'S. I gather that

some

> Led's are brighter than others, or is that a matter of which resistors

are

> used ? I had begun to conclude that they are just evolving and coming

out

> with brighter lights. I know that as little as 1-1/2 volts can run an

LED,

> but almost all of the LED bulbs available are already wired ( with the
> appropriate resisters) so they run only on 12 volts. I realize they

will, I

> believe, work on 6 volts, but at considerably reduced brightness. I want

them

> for brake lights on a 6 volt car. Any advice or specifics would be
> appreciated. They are made for e.g. Model A tail lights, but they are

made to fit

> a specific Model A Ford lens that is not appropriate on other cars. I
> would like a single element bulb - single contact ( any pin

configuration that

> is for Brake light use) that is as bright as possible, but for 6 volts.
> Vic

 

[Propcar50]

As always, an excellent holiday gift from the board. Thanks.

Randy Bograd
Blue '67
(hating winter in Maryland)