Drive Shafts

[tazman3115@aol.com]

I found that the easiest way to release the drive shafts from the
transmission per Paul R was to remove the 6 or so osillating arm bolts and pull
the arm
away from the body enough to pull the end of the shaft from the trasmission so
you can remove the trans. Note I did not even release the tension from the
brake cable or brake hose and had no problem. I may have too much cable slack?
but the job of pulling the drive shaft out to replace the double lip seal went
well thanks to Paul. My 2 cents worth, Chuck.
PS are local homeless program is sponsoring a fund raising golf outing. We
are going to have an extra fund raising drawing with the prize being a lenghthy
Amphicar ride to the high bidder. I think this will work well.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[Robert Vondracek]

We restore all 3 types of original drive shafts and convert them to include
a 90 degree zerk fitting on the end cap nearest the tranny so that the joint
can be greased from outside the car. Also, all drive shafts that did not
originally have a zerk fitting on the spline shaft will now include one!
The steel sealing surface is machined and a new steel sleeve is pressed on.

The NSB Trailer Company's restored drive shafts are better than new as these
units may have the U-joint replaced if ever needed in the future.

The cost to restore these has not been finalized, but it will be
substantially less than a new one.

Not So Big Trailer Company, LLC
Robert Vondracek
1003 Woodcrest Court
Valparaiso, IN 46383
www.notsobigtrailer.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[Robert Vondracek]

Craig,

Don't forget that the Not So Big Trailer Company offers restored drive
shafts that have a new steel sleeve pressed over the existing steel after it
is milled down for the perfect new surface for the double lip seal to seat
on (if needed) and a grease zerk for the splines if your particular drive
shafts doesn't have one originally. All drive shaft restorations use
replaceable stock size U-joints. If the splines portion is bad, the drive
shaft is not restorable. The rubber boot is replaced only if needed as our
goal is to make them affordable. And they are much lower priced than new
ones.

All restoration include the desirable 90 degree zerk in the cap of the
U-joint nearest the gearbox for easy greasing from outside the car. All
types of drive shafts are brought up to the standards of the best type.

We know that these restored shafts are better than the new ones since the
U-joints can be changed if ever needed. I've heard it said that the splines
are not restored. But do they wear out?

Of course, you could spend more and buy new ones and maybe send them to me
later when new ones really get expensive! And we will be happy to sell the
double lip seals to you at a much lowered price than you can buy them
anywhere.

All 3 types of drive shafts can be interchanged. It is not important to have
the same type on both sides, although it is the nicest.

If you send me yours to be restored, the turn-around time is about two
weeks. I can send you restored shafts that I have in stock and charge you a
core charge so there is less downtime.

By the way, I will pay $75 per restorable drive shaft if you have any laying
around.

Not So Big Trailer Company, LLC
Rob Vondracek
1003 Woodcrest Court
Valparaiso, IN 46383



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[PVCJ PVCJ]

Hello Robert
I whould like to know if i can buy a U-JOINT off you? I have one bad one
that needs to be replaced
or a part # so i can buy one locally if at all,
THANKS PAUL 67 amphy

>From: "Robert Vondracek" <rjv@drakebuilders.com>
>Reply-To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
>To: "Amphicar Lovers" <amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [amphicar-lovers] drive shafts
>Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:09:05 -0600
>
>We restore all 3 types of original drive shafts and convert them to include
>a 90 degree zerk fitting on the end cap nearest the tranny so that the
>joint
>can be greased from outside the car. Also, all drive shafts that did not
>originally have a zerk fitting on the spline shaft will now include one!
>The steel sealing surface is machined and a new steel sleeve is pressed on.
>
>The NSB Trailer Company's restored drive shafts are better than new as
>these
>units may have the U-joint replaced if ever needed in the future.
>
>The cost to restore these has not been finalized, but it will be
>substantially less than a new one.
>
>Not So Big Trailer Company, LLC
>Robert Vondracek
>1003 Woodcrest Court
>Valparaiso, IN 46383
>www.notsobigtrailer.com
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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[Robert Vondracek]

The core value for a rebuildable drive shaft is $50 and I now have plenty of
them, so at this moment I am not interested in any more. But things may
change if I acquire any non-rebuildable drive shafts.

Not So Big Trailer Company, LLC
Rob Vondracek
1003 Woodcrest Court
Valparaiso, IN 46383



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[Gord Souter]

I stock u joints for the large dia. shafts
there are 3 different dia shafts.
I noticed when I put away the pile of used ones that a few of them had
brand new u joints in them from the other 2 sizes.
Generally with a vice, socket and a good hammer you can change a normal u
joint but Amphis are much more fun./ a press is much easier..
The vibration problem comes from the spine area.The spines must be in good
shape. sharp square and tight into each other.the problem is that sand got
in threw a leaky boot and works like sandpaper turning them round and
loose.Now the can wobble and vibrate making you think a tire is out of
ballance.Also they can only go together 1 way and one used may not line up
to another used from another car.to test get a proven flat surface and
sit shaft on it.the flat surface of one u joint that does not pivot shot
match up exactly to the flat surface of the other u joint that does not
pivot. not that you have done all that put it together with lots of grease
. clamp up boot carefully with small dia. clamp ends and take to machine
shop and get it balanced.
I am lucky , a shop a block down the road has this equipment.
Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,(www.ampicar.ca)
ORILLIA ONT.
L3V 6H4
(gord@amphicar.ca)
MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820

I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
over 700 different parts for sale.
Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!


---
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[David Chapman]

<table bgColor="#ffffff">
<font face="Arial" size="2">Gord, </font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2">That's good info - which of the different driveshaft types do you find last longest ? Any difference in perfomance between the different types ? </font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2">As you say mix and match doesn't work well, also the mistake almost everyone makes at least once is putting the splined part together in such a way that the hook part of the UJ isn't in the same alignment at each end. Logic says they should be turned 90 degrees but if you do that the car shakes your teath out at around 40mph. The picture in the manual is correct - I'll try and add it to this message. </font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2">David C</font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"></font>
</td></tr>
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[Rob Vondracek]

I have found a German u-joint that is the correct diameter for the late
style drive shaft. But it is .060 too long. But my machinist was able to
remove .030 from each end cap. And Gord has a source for the oldest style
u-joint. 2 out of 3 isn't bad. So now the my modified ones fit perfectly,
and they will be back in Mike Batt's car shortly.

Mike has two firsts! He owns the 1st NSB trailer and also owns the 1st
restored drive shafts!

Rob "All Things Amphicar" Vondracek

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[tcamphicar]

I've given up on restoring drive shafts. It is a big job replacing
one and to have the vibration that I experienced on a car that I
repaired is ridiculous. It is no fun replacing one a 2nd time.

After both drive shafts were restored and installed, one vibrated
at 40mph and I learned that even though the replaced u-joints
were perfect, wear to the splines could not be measured
accurately or repaired. Even though there did notappear to be
any vibration before the repair, the vibration starte big-time after
the u-joints were replaced. I feel that the money saved does not
justify the risk. Who knows what caused the vibration?

In the future, I will only use NOS ones, at least until someone
figures out how to restore the splines. I hope it happens, but I
doubt it.

All Things Amphicar
Robert Vondracek
219-405-1241
http://www.allthingsamphicar.com

 

[amphi_sc]

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "tcamphicar" <cassemterry@...>
wrote:
>...
> After both drive shafts were restored and installed, one vibrated
> at 40mph and I learned that even though the replaced u-joints
> were perfect, wear to the splines could not be measured
> accurately or repaired. Even though there did notappear to be
> any vibration before the repair, the vibration starte big-time after
> the u-joints were replaced. I feel that the money saved does not
> justify the risk. Who knows what caused the vibration?
>
Easy mistake to make. Make sure the U-Joints line up in the same
rotational plane. I personally experienced that very same drastic
symptom once too about 5 years ago around 35MPH when I did mine, and
separating the slip joint to align it back properly removed the
vibration ... smooth all the way up past 70, but usually stay down in
the 55-60 range. And as yours had no vibration before, I'll bet the
slip joint doesn't have significant wear. So I'll concur with Gord's
suggestion of checking the alignment plane of the u-joint pair. Make
sure they bend at the same position in the angular rotation.

Also, when I do the rubber covers, I use a CV Joint clamp instead of
the hose clamp. Less interference possibility.

Al H

 

[tcamphicar]

Thanks to Gord, my vibrating drive shaft was absolutely aligned
correctly and put together exactly as it was! Should not need to
be balanced, and I have an excellent drive shaft guy and he told
me that the drive shafts were too short to balance. If it was in
balance to start with, didn't change anything that would affect the
balance. I am lost.

My own theory is that the tight new u-joints somehow allowed the
spline to vibrate when it didn't before. Very frustrating.

All Things Amphicar
Robert Vondracek
219-405-1241
http://www.allthingsamphicar.com