door seals and vapor lock

G

glennyrosa

Guest
Well, I thought before re-routing the fuel line, putting in an
electric pump, installing a heat shield under the carb, ect., I
decided to try something quick and dirty. I found some old fire
sleeve in my tool box. It goes over fuel lines on jet engines. I
slipped a section over the line from the carb to aft part of the
valve cover. I also removed my inline filter before the pump. I
didn't have that last year and I had no problems then.

Now for another test. My engine wouldn't run but for a couple of
seconds at a time then quit. I took the top of the carb off and
wasn't able to blow thru the intake port. Took the needle valve out
and whadda know! There was one last chunk of rust that found its
way somehow to the carb. Cleaned that out and was ready for door
seal sea trails.

Installed a Home Depot product on the rt door and doubled up the
driver door with Hughs product. The Home Depot door is tight. The
driver door leak slowed but not by much. The doors leaked about the
same before which was A LOT! I'm going to install new Depot seals
on the lt door tonight and do more sea trials Sunday.

The Home Depot product is found in the weather striping area which
is on the same isle with door locks in my local store. It's made
by MD Specialty. Says it's for Marine & Auto. 10 year
warrantyIt's 5/16" thick by 19/32 wide and 10' long so you need to
get two. The product number is 01033 and cost $7.76.

This was for the door frame seal. I haven't touched the larger door
seal as it still looked good. Maybe it's not.

Next will be the trunk lid. Even when it's locked I get loads of
water from there. I can still lift the lid a little even when
locked. May have to work on those seals next.

Glenn, not leaky as before, Bell
 
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