Carburetor Options


New Member
The carburetor is a new project on my Amphicar. I have the original Solex B30PSEI, and it’s in need of service. I’ve read through every forum post containing the word ‘carburetor’. I believe this summarizes the options.

1. Rebuild my original – Does anyone have a good suggestion on where I could send mine? I called some carburetor shops, and one suggested Omar at Just Carburetors in Florida, who I will contact.

2. Buy a rebuilt Solex. Gord has none in stock right now. Gordon’s lists a rebuilt Solex for $410.90.

3. Buy a new Solex. Gordon’s lists for $523.10. I assume it’s a Solex B30PSEI, but I will ask them.

4. Buy an ‘improved replacement’. Gordon lists one for $395.00. Some older posts indicate it is not a drop-in replacement, and that a few modifications are needed (flame arrestor machined on one end, vacuum line moved, choke/enrichment cable rerouted, fuel line slight modification).

5. Buy a ‘high-performance’ replacement. Gordon’s lists for $593.21. Their photo is so small, that I can’t tell quite what it is, and if modifications will be needed.

6. Twin SU carbs (I have no details).

My preference is to rebuild mine. But any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks, Doug
The weekend special is over, but the new one from Gordon's was very nice looking to me.
Mine runs pretty good, but the anti boil over feature was something that caught my eye.

It is nice to have choices!

John Howland

New Member
I have had enough with the boiling gas and the gas dripping on my exhaust manifold when shutting it off because of that ridiculous setup with Intake and exhaust as one cast unit! If Amphicar had waited a couple years they would have gotten 1147's with the dual SUs from Triumph, (right?) So, I got the early Spitfire Intake manifold with 2 H2 SU's, the correct cast iron exhaust manifold that goes with it from a MK1 Spitfire and right now am making up some stainless piping to connect the exhaust as well as a stainless tailpipe! I got a longer accelerator cable from Alan C and just found an aluminized muffler that fits better in that tight area also. Got some great ideas from John B. on making a heat shield for the setup and dual aircleaners with hoses to connect to fan shroud for no water intrusion like original design Hope to assemble and test this weekend.


Hi Jack
Sounds like you have been busy, no surprise. I look forward to checking out your car next time we get together. How much more power/horse power will this new carb system make. And will it solve the vapor lock hard start problem.
Sorry Doug, don't want to change thread. So Doug, my car is bone stock. I rebuilt the carb 15 years ago with a kit from Gordens, it was cheap, easy to do , and worked well. Starts right up cold, runs ok, but does have vapor lock when hot. I deal with it and have not been stranded yet. It is scary when I stall on a busy ramp, with a car full, and it won't start right up. I would say try rebuilding your carb and see if that works. if not go to the next level.
Good luck
Hi John,

That is a ton of work you did!
I am sure everyone (including myself) would like to see some pictures of this set up.

With space so limited, you had to get creative to make everything fit and work.

John Howland

New Member
Started it and kept having a fuel leak, seems to have had a fuel pressure issue, got a fuel pressure regulator and hopefully will have a test ride Saturday!


New Member
Doug checking in. I am rebuilding my original Solex. But I did purchase the 'new, improved, ‘drop-in replacement’ carburetor' from Gordon Imports (9/1/2020). Gordon lists it for $395.00 (mine was on sale for $295). The new carb is great! Installation was easy. The car started immediately with the settings as purchased. Only some minor adjustments were needed. The carb helps the car start easily, run smoothly, and accelerate well.

I found it to be an easy drop-in replacement, with only a few minor install modifications. Here are the steps I used, for the very easy install. Some are from the helpful notes from other posters. Perhaps these notes will be useful if others take this route.

  • If you’re unfamiliar with the carburetor setup, photograph and diagram the old carburetor, as it’s installed in the car. Note connections for accelerator, choke, fuel line, vacuum line. Note spacer and gaskets at base. Note flame arrestor.
  • Remove old carb. Retain all parts.
  • Fuel line – Mount the new flex line on to the new carb. Use an authentic clamp. Make sure the connections are tight.
  • Phenolic spacer between the carb & manifold –The spacer goes between the carb base and the intake manifold to insulate the carb from the heat. Use the two new gaskets provided, on either side. Note the new carb has a slightly thicker base, so it may be necessary to back out the manifold studs to lengthen them, or replace them with longer studs. In my case, there was no problem.
  • Mount the carb. Tightened the nuts firmly to insure elimination of vacuum leaks. Check again after the first drive.
  • Accelerator linkage – Attach the original throttle arm to the new carb, just as the original.
  • Choke (now ‘enrichment’) cable – The enrichment connection is on the opposite side of the carb (port) from the standard choke attachment (starboard). I had no problem with the somewhat tighter 180° radius turn. Gordons suggested routing the cable below and up the side of the square tube frame rail. This would make the 180 degree turn more gradual, while keeping it away from the muffler.
  • Fuel line – Push back the flare nut on the original steel line. Put a loop in the new flex line, and attach it to the steel line, with a clamp.
  • Vacuum line - The vacuum advance port is slightly relocated requiring some minor bending of the vacuum line. I had also ordered a new rubber angle connector, since mine was hard from age.
  • Flame arrestor - The fuel input port on the new carburetor is higher on this carb with a "bulb" that interferes with the stock flame arrestor. Just turn the arrestor about 15 degrees, so it does not interfere. If you want it to sit straight, as original, then you’ll need to machine a relief in the FA housing to clear. The new carb has a nylon bumper that fits into the formed groove for the set screws to tighten against.
  • Tuning –
  • Choke – I only needed about half choke when starting the car.
  • Idle speed - the adjustment is on the base of the carb, and works against the accelerator linkage lever (just like the original).
  • Mixture - rich/lean – the adjustment is at the base of the carb, at an angle pointing to the right rear (just like the original). Trying turning it in, until the engine runs rougher, then out; find the sweet spot.
  • Old carb – Retain it, for originality, or use as a back-up. Get a rebuild kit, and get it ready for use. As many have said, the rebuild is easy.

John Howland

New Member
All assembled and running! With the longer J Pipe I made up, either a GI ( 75to79 Vw) muffler can be used or the smaller (4" aluminized round tractor ) muffler can be used. See pics. It starts right up even after shutting it off for a short time! It idles smoothly. Seems to have more pep going through the gears. Doesn't want to stall anymore letting the clutch out off the line, and most importantly. No More Stench of gasoline filling the house after shutting it off! All I can say is, I wish I did this 8 years ago!


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That is a sweet set-up. Space is limited and the custom J pipe seems to help make everything fit.
Thanks for the pictures!

I particularly like the clothes pin in the image above, an old timer solution to overheating and fuel boil over.
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