Carburetor base curved?

D

DAVIS,BRIAN R

Guest
Is the bottom of the Solex carburetor supposed to have a curved mounting
surface???

I just rebuilt my carburetor and noticed that the mounting base was NOT
FLAT. In fact, it had so much curve to it that I can't imagine it ever
sealed properly. Is this distortion a result of age, or was the base of the
carb intentionally cast that way?

Hugh Gordon's latest flyer advertises 1-07-59 Carburetor Heat Insulating
Flange, and the descriptions says that "two paper gaskets are required to
completely prevent air leaks at the bottom of the carburetor".

Now does this mean that the curve of the base is supposed to be there, and
that's why you need two gaskets? I hope not because I already filed the
mounting surface flat!

Any comments?

Thanks, Brian Davis Red '66
208-841-9580

-----Original Message-----
From: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 3:36 AM
To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Digest Number 240



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@egroups.com


------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Pump
From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
2. Re: Pump
From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
3. Pump and Door Seals
From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
4. Pump & Door Seals
From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
5. Re: Pump and Door Seals
From: tommyintpa@aol.com
6. Re: Pump and Door Seals
From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
7. Re: Re: Pump
From: tommyintpa@aol.com
8. Re: Engine mounts
From: tommyintpa@aol.com
9. Re: Pump & Door Seals
From: "Bill Connelly" <billiam@erols.com>
10. Amphicar.com
From: "&quot;Cap'n&quot; John" <minnow@amphicar.net>
11. Re: Amphicar.com
From: Hans Rosloot <rosloot@caiw.nl>
12. Books for Sale.
From: "Ken 'KD' Roy" <kdroy@hotmail.com>
13. I peeked and was totally impressed...
From: Amphipoda@yahoo.com


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 13:41:05 -0000
From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
Subject: Re: Pump

--- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "Michael Echemann" <echemike@e...> wrote:
> Marty:
> You can use the same pump you use to fill the transmission. If you
don't
> have one go to any auto store and buy one. They work great and
usually come
> with the tranny oil. You may have to extend the tube to reach the
bottom of
> your tranny but other than that it will pump fine. The next best
thing to
> pulling the plug.
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <martyandcaryl@c...>
> To: <amphicar-lovers@y...>
> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:27 PM
> Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Pump
>
>
> > Where would I be able to find a nice quality pump to suck out gear
> > oil and motor oil. I have tried the bike air pump looking thing
and
> > the one for the end of the drill, the drill thing did work better
but
> > took about 20 mins to drain the oil.
> > Thanks,
> > Marty
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 13:41:04 -0000
From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
Subject: Re: Pump

--- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "Michael Echemann" <echemike@e...> wrote:
> Marty:
> You can use the same pump you use to fill the transmission. If you
don't
> have one go to any auto store and buy one. They work great and
usually come
> with the tranny oil. You may have to extend the tube to reach the
bottom of
> your tranny but other than that it will pump fine. The next best
thing to
> pulling the plug.
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <martyandcaryl@c...>
> To: <amphicar-lovers@y...>
> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:27 PM
> Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Pump
>
>
> > Where would I be able to find a nice quality pump to suck out gear
> > oil and motor oil. I have tried the bike air pump looking thing
and
> > the one for the end of the drill, the drill thing did work better
but
> > took about 20 mins to drain the oil.
> > Thanks,
> > Marty
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 13:56:51 -0000
From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
Subject: Pump and Door Seals

Sorry about the 2 extra re-messages, accidents happen.

I will look for the trans filling pump at my limited parts store and
also at a marina. Rene, I understand your point with using the mag
insert, I use that type plug on other vehicles and they have no
problems.

I need to apply a new door seal to the passanger side on the body, I
have a roll from Gordon Imports #11-34-33, soft black material 5/8"
wide x 1/8" thick, also 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive.

Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no leaks.
The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching. How
fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it and
it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
corners.

There were 2 pieces, boubled up on the car that I removed, I doubt
this was normal.

Thanks,
Marty



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 14:20:28 -0000
From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
Subject: Pump & Door Seals

I will look for the trans filling pump at my limited parts store and
also at a marina. Rene, I understand your point with using the mag
insert, I use that type plug on other vehicles and they have no
problems.

I need to apply a new door seal to the passenger side on the body, I
have a roll from Gordon Imports #11-34-33, soft black material 5/8"
wide x 1/8" thick, also 3M Super Weather-strip Adhesive.

Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no leaks.
The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching. How
fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it and
it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
corners.

There were 2 pieces, doubled up on the car that I removed, I doubt
this was normal.

Thanks,
Marty





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:22:39 EST
From: tommyintpa@aol.com
Subject: Re: Pump and Door Seals

In a message dated 3/27/01 8:58:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
martyandcaryl@charter.net writes:


> Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no leaks.
> The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching. How
> fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it and
> it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
> corners.
>
> There were 2 pieces, boubled up on the car that I removed, I doubt
> this was normal.
>
> Thanks,
> Marty
>
>
>

Marty, Check to see if you have thick aftermarket trim around the inside of
the car body next to the door, to conceal the edge of the carpet. On my red
67 it came with thick trim that had to be removed. The trim would hold the
door away from the rubber. After I removed it I found that the home made
door
panel extended so close to the edge of the door that it too had to be
remade.
The car came with triple rubber on the car body side. Remove the old rubber
then readjust the door so it is even with the body and the latches work,
then
glue on the rubber. If you lube the latches they may work better, hold the
button in and the star shaped latch should turn easily both ways. That glue
on rubber is a #$%&@ to install, the Bilge Master sells some peel and stick
rubber that I hear is hard too beat and oh so easy to install.
Tommy in Tampa Red 67 & White 64


[This message contained attachments]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:44:36 -0000
From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
Subject: Re: Pump and Door Seals

Thanks for the hints, I don't have any lips where the door seals go
on the body, the area is straight. I would like to find the self
stick seal material, it would also be nice to have on hand for that
just in case day on the water when someone makes a wrong move.

Bilgemaster, what can you tell me about this material.

Marty

--- In amphicar-lovers@y..., tommyintpa@a... wrote:
> In a message dated 3/27/01 8:58:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> martyandcaryl@c... writes:
>
>
> > Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no
leaks.
> > The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching.
How
> > fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it
and
> > it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
> > corners.
> >
> > There were 2 pieces, boubled up on the car that I removed, I
doubt
> > this was normal.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Marty
> >
> >
> >
>
> Marty, Check to see if you have thick aftermarket trim around the
inside of
> the car body next to the door, to conceal the edge of the carpet.
On my red
> 67 it came with thick trim that had to be removed. The trim would
hold the
> door away from the rubber. After I removed it I found that the home
made door
> panel extended so close to the edge of the door that it too had to
be remade.
> The car came with triple rubber on the car body side. Remove the
old rubber
> then readjust the door so it is even with the body and the latches
work, then
> glue on the rubber. If you lube the latches they may work better,
hold the
> button in and the star shaped latch should turn easily both ways.
That glue
> on rubber is a #$%&@ to install, the Bilge Master sells some peel
and stick
> rubber that I hear is hard too beat and oh so easy to install.
> Tommy in Tampa Red 67 & White 64



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 12:04:35 EST
From: tommyintpa@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Pump

Hi all, I bought a set of metric ratchet wrenches at the flea market, they
cost 13.95 for the set. You can get it on the drain plug no problem and it
makes land transmission plug removal "almost" easy. This style wrench seems
to stay on the plug better than any that I have found to date.
Tommy in Tampa


[This message contained attachments]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 12:29:11 EST
From: tommyintpa@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine mounts

Gordon has new heavy duty engine mounts in stock - and they're really nice.
About $35 each and well worth it. You'll have to slightly enlarge the
mounting holes on both the body and engine brackets to accommodate the
larger
stud size. I was able to change the mounts by lifting the engine a few
inches and removing the engine mount bracket (which you'll have to do anyway

to drill it) to reach under the engine to get at the engine mount nuts. Not

real easy but doable. The new mounts seemed to have a nonstandard wrench
size (at least in
my set) of 18 mm, if I remember correctly. However, I was able tighten all
the new nuts securely using another close wrench size. Everything lines up
nicely now and the engine is well cushioned on its new mounts.

Ken Chambers, CA
'64 Red, '64 White

Hi, I just replaced the motor mounts on Corky my red 67. I did not have to
drill out the holes for the new mounts, they were the correct size. I did
not
need to remove the engine mount bracket. I did cut all the excess bolt
length
off the lower bolts on the mount so it was a little less tortuous to tighten

up on the bottom.
Tommy in Tampa


[This message contained attachments]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 9
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 12:56:29 -0500
From: "Bill Connelly" <billiam@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Pump & Door Seals


I will look for the trans filling pump at my limited parts store and
also at a marina. Rene, I understand your point with using the mag
insert, I use that type plug on other vehicles and they have no
problems.

> The unit I use for regular tranny oil changes is that a fairly
ubiquitous orange and black hand pump found in most every auto supplies
shop. It sound to me from an earlier posting that that may be the same unit
you've used in addition to a "drill type" pump. All I can add is that while
it's a little tricky to get started, requiring a lot of patience as you feel
the heavier weight oil crawl ploop-plooping up the line and into the pump
cylinder, once "primed" and flowing I've found it acts like a siphon. Sure,
it doesn't get ALL of the oil out, but it does the trick for my regular
end-of-season "pamperings". I usually run the Amphi around a bit first to
whip and warm up the tranny oil a little before pumping it out, so I'm
pretty sure I am getting at least most of the temporarily suspended water
and other goobers out. If it's your first draining of the trannies, at the
least hint of minor water fouling (i.e. if your tranny oil looks like
anything other than bubbly honey), or if you're changing over to AMSOIL
synthetic lubricants for the first time, then one should certainly consider
the more difficult but thorough "full draining" described at
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/m1923.html and
http://www.amphicar.net/library/trannydraining.jpg and
http://www.amphicar.net/library/trannydrainingpix.jpg.


I need to apply a new door seal to the passenger side on the body, I
have a roll from Gordon Imports #11-34-33, soft black material 5/8"
wide x 1/8" thick, also 3M Super Weather-strip Adhesive.

Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no leaks.
The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching. How
fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it and
it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
corners.

> Basically the installation would go like this with Gordon's
original type seals:

1. Remove the old seals and adhesive, cleaning the door frame "channel"
where the seal lies thoroughly (an old toothbrush dabbed sparingly in
acetone will help remove stubborn old adhesive or sealant. Ummm...put out
that cigarette, OK?)
2. Apply adhesive sparingly to door frame channel.
3. Begin laying in new seal, front to rear, applying adhesive as you work
along.
4. When you come to the 90 degree bends in the door frame, compress, don't
s t r e t c h, the seal into place.
5. Examine the placement of the seal, wiping away any extra adhesive.
6. Close door and go away for 24 hours to allow it to set and settle in.
7. Next day: trim off any overage with a razor and open the door. There!

I sell SELF-adhesive door-at-body seals for $20 a pair. I had to get a
whole lot of the stuff specially cut once upon a time when Gordon was
temporarily out of them several years ago, as I was doing my own Amphi. My
seals are cut a tad wider (9/16") and just a smidgeon thicker (3/16") than
the original type seals on purpose: to help give "tired" by otherwise sound
door-at-door seals a second lease on life. Being self-adhesive, mine are
also a LOT easier to finagle into place. If you want strict originality, go
with Gordon's seals, If you want a cheaper and easier solution for
dribble-free boating, then see my ad at http://www.amphicar.com/ads.htm.
They don't LOOK blatantly "unoriginal", and the ones in my Amphi have been
hanging in there since '95 with nary a dribble.

There were 2 pieces, doubled up on the car that I removed, I doubt
this was normal.

> Quite right. It sounds like the previous owner was trying to
beef up the thickness, for the reason described above, by adding a second
seal on top of the first.

~Bilgemaster~



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 10
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 18:34:04 -0000
From: "&quot;Cap'n&quot; John" <minnow@amphicar.net>
Subject: Amphicar.com

Aside from occasional tweeks, the manual is completed. I added some
color drawings (redrew from scratch using orig. as models) of various
electrical parts.

What would you like to see next?
Any suggestions for corrections / tweeks or ?? are gladly accepted.

John



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 11
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:52:55 +0100
From: Hans Rosloot <rosloot@caiw.nl>
Subject: Re: Amphicar.com

Hello &quot;Cap'n&quot;



> Aside from occasional tweeks, the manual is completed. I added some
> color drawings (redrew from scratch using orig. as models) of various
> electrical parts.
>
> What would you like to see next?

That you will receive a knighthood. :)


--
Groetjes/greetings,

Hans

All the amphibious vehicles of the world. -- work in progress :)
http://www.d-w-e.nl/amphibious/

Een virtuele tour door Maassluis
http://www.maeslanden.nl/virtours/maassluis

A virtual tour through Maassluis
http://www.maeslanden.nl/virtours/maassluis/index.E.html

Homepage
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~rosloot/

All made with "Amiga" Computer.

I don't wan'a do Windows, I wan'a do my Girlfriend.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 12
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 15:39:16 -0600
From: "Ken 'KD' Roy" <kdroy@hotmail.com>
Subject: Books for Sale.

For sale:
8.5"x14" reproduction of the amphicar parts manual & shop manual.
New, bought from Hugh Gordon,
but don't need it cuz I have the originals.
$100 + shipping.

Wanted to trade:
4 inch White Amphicar model for a Blue Amphicar model.

Thanks, Ken Roy Oakdale MN. 651-770-2757 kdroy@hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 13
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 02:04:22 -0000
From: Amphipoda@yahoo.com
Subject: I peeked and was totally impressed...

Took a few minutes to explore Capt. John's
handy work and I am in awe at the detail
and precision of his technical web page.
See for yourself my fin finned friends at
http://www.amphicar.net/minnow/Technical.htm
The man has done us all a huge service and
deserves more than a round of applause.
I reckoned we Amphi folks were pretty web
savy until I saw what Capt. John did...
now I reckon we are akin to web Gods.
I wish I had something to suggest but
frankly its ALL there and just needs to
be kept afloat. Good on ya Capt. Hope
others take a moment to pay homage too.
You'll be glad you did.

Amphipoda
'64 Turquoise
Insane D-Eggo, CA




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
T

tommyintpa@aol.com

Guest
<font FACE="arial,helvetica"><font SIZE="3" FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Calisto MT" LANG="0">In a message dated 3/29/01 3:16:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
davidc@avonlogic.freeserve.co.uk writes:



</font><font COLOR="#000000" SIZE="2" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">

<blockquote TYPE="CITE" style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">sounds

like you did the right thing, best way to get it totally flat is a sheet of

wet and dry taped to a sheet of glass...



David Chapman</font><font COLOR="#000000" SIZE="3" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></blockquote>

</font><font COLOR="#000000" SIZE="3" FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Calisto MT" LANG="0">

</font>
 
D

David Chapman

Guest
Brian,

Sounds like the 2 nuts might have been overtightened, the insulating block
on top of the manifold is relatively soft and the soft alloy body of the
carb will bend if those nuts are too tight, that causes air leaks, sounds
like you did the right thing, best way to get it totally flat is a sheet of
wet and dry taped to a sheet of glass...

David Chapman
 

Similar threads


Top