Carburetor base curved?

Discussion in 'General Amphicar Discussion' started by DAVIS,BRIAN R, Mar 29, 2001.

  1. DAVIS,BRIAN R
    Offline

    Is the bottom of the Solex carburetor supposed to have a curved mounting
    surface???

    I just rebuilt my carburetor and noticed that the mounting base was NOT
    FLAT. In fact, it had so much curve to it that I can't imagine it ever
    sealed properly. Is this distortion a result of age, or was the base of the
    carb intentionally cast that way?

    Hugh Gordon's latest flyer advertises 1-07-59 Carburetor Heat Insulating
    Flange, and the descriptions says that "two paper gaskets are required to
    completely prevent air leaks at the bottom of the carburetor".

    Now does this mean that the curve of the base is supposed to be there, and
    that's why you need two gaskets? I hope not because I already filed the
    mounting surface flat!

    Any comments?

    Thanks, Brian Davis Red '66
    208-841-9580

    -----Original Message-----
    From: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
    [mailto:amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com]
    Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 3:36 AM
    To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Digest Number 240



    To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    There are 13 messages in this issue.

    Topics in this digest:

    1. Re: Pump
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    2. Re: Pump
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    3. Pump and Door Seals
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    4. Pump & Door Seals
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    5. Re: Pump and Door Seals
    From: tommyintpa@aol.com
    6. Re: Pump and Door Seals
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    7. Re: Re: Pump
    From: tommyintpa@aol.com
    8. Re: Engine mounts
    From: tommyintpa@aol.com
    9. Re: Pump & Door Seals
    From: "Bill Connelly" <billiam@erols.com>
    10. Amphicar.com
    From: "&quot;Cap'n&quot; John" <minnow@amphicar.net>
    11. Re: Amphicar.com
    From: Hans Rosloot <rosloot@caiw.nl>
    12. Books for Sale.
    From: "Ken 'KD' Roy" <kdroy@hotmail.com>
    13. I peeked and was totally impressed...
    From: Amphipoda@yahoo.com


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    Message: 1
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 13:41:05 -0000
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    Subject: Re: Pump

    --- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "Michael Echemann" <echemike@e...> wrote:
    > Marty:
    > You can use the same pump you use to fill the transmission. If you
    don't
    > have one go to any auto store and buy one. They work great and
    usually come
    > with the tranny oil. You may have to extend the tube to reach the
    bottom of
    > your tranny but other than that it will pump fine. The next best
    thing to
    > pulling the plug.
    > Mike
    > ----- Original Message -----
    > From: <martyandcaryl@c...>
    > To: <amphicar-lovers@y...>
    > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:27 PM
    > Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Pump
    >
    >
    > > Where would I be able to find a nice quality pump to suck out gear
    > > oil and motor oil. I have tried the bike air pump looking thing
    and
    > > the one for the end of the drill, the drill thing did work better
    but
    > > took about 20 mins to drain the oil.
    > > Thanks,
    > > Marty
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    > > amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@egroups.com
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    > >
    > >



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    Message: 2
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 13:41:04 -0000
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    Subject: Re: Pump

    --- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "Michael Echemann" <echemike@e...> wrote:
    > Marty:
    > You can use the same pump you use to fill the transmission. If you
    don't
    > have one go to any auto store and buy one. They work great and
    usually come
    > with the tranny oil. You may have to extend the tube to reach the
    bottom of
    > your tranny but other than that it will pump fine. The next best
    thing to
    > pulling the plug.
    > Mike
    > ----- Original Message -----
    > From: <martyandcaryl@c...>
    > To: <amphicar-lovers@y...>
    > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:27 PM
    > Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Pump
    >
    >
    > > Where would I be able to find a nice quality pump to suck out gear
    > > oil and motor oil. I have tried the bike air pump looking thing
    and
    > > the one for the end of the drill, the drill thing did work better
    but
    > > took about 20 mins to drain the oil.
    > > Thanks,
    > > Marty
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    > > amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@egroups.com
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
    > >
    > >



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    Message: 3
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 13:56:51 -0000
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    Subject: Pump and Door Seals

    Sorry about the 2 extra re-messages, accidents happen.

    I will look for the trans filling pump at my limited parts store and
    also at a marina. Rene, I understand your point with using the mag
    insert, I use that type plug on other vehicles and they have no
    problems.

    I need to apply a new door seal to the passanger side on the body, I
    have a roll from Gordon Imports #11-34-33, soft black material 5/8"
    wide x 1/8" thick, also 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive.

    Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no leaks.
    The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching. How
    fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it and
    it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
    corners.

    There were 2 pieces, boubled up on the car that I removed, I doubt
    this was normal.

    Thanks,
    Marty



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    Message: 4
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 14:20:28 -0000
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    Subject: Pump & Door Seals

    I will look for the trans filling pump at my limited parts store and
    also at a marina. Rene, I understand your point with using the mag
    insert, I use that type plug on other vehicles and they have no
    problems.

    I need to apply a new door seal to the passenger side on the body, I
    have a roll from Gordon Imports #11-34-33, soft black material 5/8"
    wide x 1/8" thick, also 3M Super Weather-strip Adhesive.

    Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no leaks.
    The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching. How
    fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it and
    it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
    corners.

    There were 2 pieces, doubled up on the car that I removed, I doubt
    this was normal.

    Thanks,
    Marty





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    Message: 5
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:22:39 EST
    From: tommyintpa@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Pump and Door Seals

    In a message dated 3/27/01 8:58:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
    martyandcaryl@charter.net writes:


    > Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no leaks.
    > The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching. How
    > fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it and
    > it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
    > corners.
    >
    > There were 2 pieces, boubled up on the car that I removed, I doubt
    > this was normal.
    >
    > Thanks,
    > Marty
    >
    >
    >

    Marty, Check to see if you have thick aftermarket trim around the inside of
    the car body next to the door, to conceal the edge of the carpet. On my red
    67 it came with thick trim that had to be removed. The trim would hold the
    door away from the rubber. After I removed it I found that the home made
    door
    panel extended so close to the edge of the door that it too had to be
    remade.
    The car came with triple rubber on the car body side. Remove the old rubber
    then readjust the door so it is even with the body and the latches work,
    then
    glue on the rubber. If you lube the latches they may work better, hold the
    button in and the star shaped latch should turn easily both ways. That glue
    on rubber is a #$%&@ to install, the Bilge Master sells some peel and stick
    rubber that I hear is hard too beat and oh so easy to install.
    Tommy in Tampa Red 67 & White 64


    [This message contained attachments]



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    Message: 6
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:44:36 -0000
    From: martyandcaryl@charter.net
    Subject: Re: Pump and Door Seals

    Thanks for the hints, I don't have any lips where the door seals go
    on the body, the area is straight. I would like to find the self
    stick seal material, it would also be nice to have on hand for that
    just in case day on the water when someone makes a wrong move.

    Bilgemaster, what can you tell me about this material.

    Marty

    --- In amphicar-lovers@y..., tommyintpa@a... wrote:
    > In a message dated 3/27/01 8:58:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
    > martyandcaryl@c... writes:
    >
    >
    > > Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no
    leaks.
    > > The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching.
    How
    > > fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it
    and
    > > it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
    > > corners.
    > >
    > > There were 2 pieces, boubled up on the car that I removed, I
    doubt
    > > this was normal.
    > >
    > > Thanks,
    > > Marty
    > >
    > >
    > >
    >
    > Marty, Check to see if you have thick aftermarket trim around the
    inside of
    > the car body next to the door, to conceal the edge of the carpet.
    On my red
    > 67 it came with thick trim that had to be removed. The trim would
    hold the
    > door away from the rubber. After I removed it I found that the home
    made door
    > panel extended so close to the edge of the door that it too had to
    be remade.
    > The car came with triple rubber on the car body side. Remove the
    old rubber
    > then readjust the door so it is even with the body and the latches
    work, then
    > glue on the rubber. If you lube the latches they may work better,
    hold the
    > button in and the star shaped latch should turn easily both ways.
    That glue
    > on rubber is a #$%&@ to install, the Bilge Master sells some peel
    and stick
    > rubber that I hear is hard too beat and oh so easy to install.
    > Tommy in Tampa Red 67 & White 64



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    Message: 7
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 12:04:35 EST
    From: tommyintpa@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Re: Pump

    Hi all, I bought a set of metric ratchet wrenches at the flea market, they
    cost 13.95 for the set. You can get it on the drain plug no problem and it
    makes land transmission plug removal "almost" easy. This style wrench seems
    to stay on the plug better than any that I have found to date.
    Tommy in Tampa


    [This message contained attachments]



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    Message: 8
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 12:29:11 EST
    From: tommyintpa@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Engine mounts

    Gordon has new heavy duty engine mounts in stock - and they're really nice.
    About $35 each and well worth it. You'll have to slightly enlarge the
    mounting holes on both the body and engine brackets to accommodate the
    larger
    stud size. I was able to change the mounts by lifting the engine a few
    inches and removing the engine mount bracket (which you'll have to do anyway

    to drill it) to reach under the engine to get at the engine mount nuts. Not

    real easy but doable. The new mounts seemed to have a nonstandard wrench
    size (at least in
    my set) of 18 mm, if I remember correctly. However, I was able tighten all
    the new nuts securely using another close wrench size. Everything lines up
    nicely now and the engine is well cushioned on its new mounts.

    Ken Chambers, CA
    '64 Red, '64 White

    Hi, I just replaced the motor mounts on Corky my red 67. I did not have to
    drill out the holes for the new mounts, they were the correct size. I did
    not
    need to remove the engine mount bracket. I did cut all the excess bolt
    length
    off the lower bolts on the mount so it was a little less tortuous to tighten

    up on the bottom.
    Tommy in Tampa


    [This message contained attachments]



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    Message: 9
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 12:56:29 -0500
    From: "Bill Connelly" <billiam@erols.com>
    Subject: Re: Pump & Door Seals


    I will look for the trans filling pump at my limited parts store and
    also at a marina. Rene, I understand your point with using the mag
    insert, I use that type plug on other vehicles and they have no
    problems.

    > The unit I use for regular tranny oil changes is that a fairly
    ubiquitous orange and black hand pump found in most every auto supplies
    shop. It sound to me from an earlier posting that that may be the same unit
    you've used in addition to a "drill type" pump. All I can add is that while
    it's a little tricky to get started, requiring a lot of patience as you feel
    the heavier weight oil crawl ploop-plooping up the line and into the pump
    cylinder, once "primed" and flowing I've found it acts like a siphon. Sure,
    it doesn't get ALL of the oil out, but it does the trick for my regular
    end-of-season "pamperings". I usually run the Amphi around a bit first to
    whip and warm up the tranny oil a little before pumping it out, so I'm
    pretty sure I am getting at least most of the temporarily suspended water
    and other goobers out. If it's your first draining of the trannies, at the
    least hint of minor water fouling (i.e. if your tranny oil looks like
    anything other than bubbly honey), or if you're changing over to AMSOIL
    synthetic lubricants for the first time, then one should certainly consider
    the more difficult but thorough "full draining" described at
    http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/m1923.html and
    http://www.amphicar.net/library/trannydraining.jpg and
    http://www.amphicar.net/library/trannydrainingpix.jpg.


    I need to apply a new door seal to the passenger side on the body, I
    have a roll from Gordon Imports #11-34-33, soft black material 5/8"
    wide x 1/8" thick, also 3M Super Weather-strip Adhesive.

    Are there any tricks to applying this material so we have no leaks.
    The adhesive says, coat both units and let dry before attaching. How
    fast is this adhesive or does the drying allow you to attach it and
    it stays put when attached. What about wrapping it around the
    corners.

    > Basically the installation would go like this with Gordon's
    original type seals:

    1. Remove the old seals and adhesive, cleaning the door frame "channel"
    where the seal lies thoroughly (an old toothbrush dabbed sparingly in
    acetone will help remove stubborn old adhesive or sealant. Ummm...put out
    that cigarette, OK?)
    2. Apply adhesive sparingly to door frame channel.
    3. Begin laying in new seal, front to rear, applying adhesive as you work
    along.
    4. When you come to the 90 degree bends in the door frame, compress, don't
    s t r e t c h, the seal into place.
    5. Examine the placement of the seal, wiping away any extra adhesive.
    6. Close door and go away for 24 hours to allow it to set and settle in.
    7. Next day: trim off any overage with a razor and open the door. There!

    I sell SELF-adhesive door-at-body seals for $20 a pair. I had to get a
    whole lot of the stuff specially cut once upon a time when Gordon was
    temporarily out of them several years ago, as I was doing my own Amphi. My
    seals are cut a tad wider (9/16") and just a smidgeon thicker (3/16") than
    the original type seals on purpose: to help give "tired" by otherwise sound
    door-at-door seals a second lease on life. Being self-adhesive, mine are
    also a LOT easier to finagle into place. If you want strict originality, go
    with Gordon's seals, If you want a cheaper and easier solution for
    dribble-free boating, then see my ad at http://www.amphicar.com/ads.htm.
    They don't LOOK blatantly "unoriginal", and the ones in my Amphi have been
    hanging in there since '95 with nary a dribble.

    There were 2 pieces, doubled up on the car that I removed, I doubt
    this was normal.

    > Quite right. It sounds like the previous owner was trying to
    beef up the thickness, for the reason described above, by adding a second
    seal on top of the first.

    ~Bilgemaster~



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    Message: 10
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 18:34:04 -0000
    From: "&quot;Cap'n&quot; John" <minnow@amphicar.net>
    Subject: Amphicar.com

    Aside from occasional tweeks, the manual is completed. I added some
    color drawings (redrew from scratch using orig. as models) of various
    electrical parts.

    What would you like to see next?
    Any suggestions for corrections / tweeks or ?? are gladly accepted.

    John



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    Message: 11
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:52:55 +0100
    From: Hans Rosloot <rosloot@caiw.nl>
    Subject: Re: Amphicar.com

    Hello &quot;Cap'n&quot;



    > Aside from occasional tweeks, the manual is completed. I added some
    > color drawings (redrew from scratch using orig. as models) of various
    > electrical parts.
    >
    > What would you like to see next?

    That you will receive a knighthood. :)


    --
    Groetjes/greetings,

    Hans

    All the amphibious vehicles of the world. -- work in progress :)
    http://www.d-w-e.nl/amphibious/

    Een virtuele tour door Maassluis
    http://www.maeslanden.nl/virtours/maassluis

    A virtual tour through Maassluis
    http://www.maeslanden.nl/virtours/maassluis/index.E.html

    Homepage
    http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~rosloot/

    All made with "Amiga" Computer.

    I don't wan'a do Windows, I wan'a do my Girlfriend.



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    ________________________________________________________________________

    Message: 12
    Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 15:39:16 -0600
    From: "Ken 'KD' Roy" <kdroy@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Books for Sale.

    For sale:
    8.5"x14" reproduction of the amphicar parts manual & shop manual.
    New, bought from Hugh Gordon,
    but don't need it cuz I have the originals.
    $100 + shipping.

    Wanted to trade:
    4 inch White Amphicar model for a Blue Amphicar model.

    Thanks, Ken Roy Oakdale MN. 651-770-2757 kdroy@hotmail.com
    _________________________________________________________________
    Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com



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    Message: 13
    Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 02:04:22 -0000
    From: Amphipoda@yahoo.com
    Subject: I peeked and was totally impressed...

    Took a few minutes to explore Capt. John's
    handy work and I am in awe at the detail
    and precision of his technical web page.
    See for yourself my fin finned friends at
    http://www.amphicar.net/minnow/Technical.htm
    The man has done us all a huge service and
    deserves more than a round of applause.
    I reckoned we Amphi folks were pretty web
    savy until I saw what Capt. John did...
    now I reckon we are akin to web Gods.
    I wish I had something to suggest but
    frankly its ALL there and just needs to
    be kept afloat. Good on ya Capt. Hope
    others take a moment to pay homage too.
    You'll be glad you did.

    Amphipoda
    '64 Turquoise
    Insane D-Eggo, CA




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  2. tommyintpa@aol.com
    Offline

    <font FACE="arial,helvetica"><font SIZE="3" FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Calisto MT" LANG="0">In a message dated 3/29/01 3:16:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
    davidc@avonlogic.freeserve.co.uk writes:



    </font><font COLOR="#000000" SIZE="2" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">

    <blockquote TYPE="CITE" style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">sounds

    like you did the right thing, best way to get it totally flat is a sheet of

    wet and dry taped to a sheet of glass...



    David Chapman</font><font COLOR="#000000" SIZE="3" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></blockquote>

    </font><font COLOR="#000000" SIZE="3" FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Calisto MT" LANG="0">

    </font>
     
  3. David Chapman
    Offline

    Brian,

    Sounds like the 2 nuts might have been overtightened, the insulating block
    on top of the manifold is relatively soft and the soft alloy body of the
    carb will bend if those nuts are too tight, that causes air leaks, sounds
    like you did the right thing, best way to get it totally flat is a sheet of
    wet and dry taped to a sheet of glass...

    David Chapman
     
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